There is no "one size fits all" answer to your question. Tire life mileage depends on wheel size (19, 20) staggered fitment (can't rotate), type of tire (grand touring, all-season, summer maximum performance, etc.), road conditions, driving style, upkeep and maintenance (wheel alignment, tire pressures), tire manufacturer, and tire compound.

I believe that you're in Switzerland. Depending on your budget and driving style, check out the reviews for the various types of Michelin and Continental tires that fit your car.

P.S. If you have staggered fitment (different sizes front and rear) and don't rotate your tires, expect to get HALF of the manufacturer's advertised mileage. Also note that tire compounds deteriorate and dry rot with age, so a 10 year old tire that's only half worn may not be safe.

 

Minimum 30,000 miles if you are not roasting them every time you drive.

I could get under 10,000 miles if I drive like Mario Andretti or 100,000 miles if I drive like my Grandma.

 

 

You probably know, performance tires age with time.
I found out the hard way.
If you notice small cracks in the rubber on close inspection, time to throw them out even if they have 80% thread on them (as in my case)
The oils they use in manufacture of high performance tires breaks down, the time this happens depends on manufacturer and type of oil used.
My Michelins were under the warranty period when this happened just to give you a reference of how quick it is.
They were kind enough to give me 50% towards new ones purchased at shop of my choice.

 

I had some brand new Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro tires that lasted thirty seconds, literally. Well, other than the three miles I drove them to the car show where my buddies talked me into (stupidly) entering the burn-out contest. I did get back home, but there was barely any discernible tread pattern at that point. Cost me over $700 for that one event. Never Again!

 

When I was using the Jaguar as a daily driver with it parked outside at work, about a year and a half and I could tell grip had deteriorated. But there wasn't cracking at that point, just reduced cornering velocity.

Who knows what it will be now that it gets a garage spot.

I often get frustrated reading tire reviews by people that say how much more grip this new brand of tire has then their old brand of tire.

They are comparing an old tire to a new tire.

 

Makes sense, thats the first symptom of the rubber drying up hardening.
Remember when pencil erasers dried out and would just glide.

If not for legal liability, I can give you a million dollar idea right now and set you up for life.
You know how millions are obsessed with feeding and conditioning leather and there are umpteen products...guess what, no one is making tire food yet. And rubber, natural or synthetic, ironically needs oils that are lost.

 

Mine are getting there after a year of doing the daily. Got a little squirrely on the way to work in the rain and sure enough, the fronts are wearing fast. Still handles good in the dry but not like it did.

 

By 20K you will notice a distinct deterioration of ride and handling with an increase in noise. If you are somewhat conservative and relatively average in your driving behaviors. And lucky.
Mine is also a DD, and since I reside in the sunny gunshine state of Florida there are few opportunities to corner fast, mostly straight this way and then that way (yawn), oh to back in the
twisty country lanes of Westchester NY. If you find you get 30K out of your tires, and your mileage averages in the low 20's you, my friend, have bought the wrong car.

 

Lots can affect tyre wear

Ambient temperature
Tyre pressures
Tyre compound
Age of rubber
Driving style
Types or journeys
How much braking you do!

In Switzerland if driven in winter months (whilst not a legal requirement) your car should have winter tyres when it drops below 10 degrees (actually 7 but ambient air temps are usually 3 degrees colder than the road itself).. Here in the UK I fit winter rubber for 3-4 months of the year, it means that your summer rubber will invariably last 25% longer.

For Winter I fit Falken Eurowinter 449's seen here:
https://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/F...nter-HS449.htm

They've lasted be for 4 winters and still have over 6mm of tread (they come with over 9.5mm new)

For Summer I swear by Michelin and the PS4 is superb

https://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/M...ot-Sport-4.htm

I've also ran their Supersports which lasted 30k miles
Goodyear GS-D3 lasted 32k
Tried Uniroyal rainsports but whilst the grip was great the sidewalls were quite soft and prone to curb damage lasted 20k
Toyo proxies lasted 23k

Now that I'll have 20" rims the choice is far less and the cost more than with 18"

 

10k max for the rear's. Luckily they're not that expensive

 

But with 7 cars the 10k miles must take a couple of years?

 

OK this got me curious so I just took a tire measurement. After a nail in the OEM dunlops I replaced the rears with Conti's DWS tires on my 20" wheels. New tread depth is 10/32 or ..312". Present measurement is .245 after 13,000 miles. Fronts were replaced with Conti's DWS 06 which now have ..261" after 7200 miles. Tire pressures are at factory recommendations. Car still rides smooth and tires are quiet. No complaints here.

 

I briefly mentioned staggered fitment in my Post #2, above, but none of the subsequent posters who reported their mileage indicated whether they rotated their tires.

Rotating tires, maintaining proper pressure and wheel alignment, and sane driving (I know that's difficult to do all the time) will maximize the tread life that the manufacturer intended for that tire.

The OP is in Switzerland. US standards differ from the rest of the world.
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretec....jsp?techid=48

 

With staggered you either run them backwards which isn't recommended or get the tire shop to turn them on the wheels.

 

If you run asymmetrical staggered directional tires backwards, your car's TPMS will go bonkers.
You will need to take your car to an automotive urologist because it can't tell if it's coming or going.

Seriously, I doubt that the increased tire life is worth the cost of repeated removal of 4 wheels, dismounting the 4 tires, remounting and balancing those tires, and reinstalling the wheels. You're compromising safety and performance if you do this with tires that have asymmetrical and directional tread.

 

I've bought into BMW's recommendation that one should not rotate their tires. Frankly, I've never found rotating tires helpful anyway. I don't run a tire until it's questionable, I figure they're the only thing keeping my keester off the road!

 

Short 'n sweet:
20" wheels.
I drive Contis and love them. Have never rotated 'em.
I get 25k on fronts. 20k on rears.

 

I rotate my tires side to side since they are not the same size front and back.
It also gives me a chance to check the tire tread for nails, check the brakes and how much life is left, and all the rubber suspension components.
Those tires/rims sure are heavy. Don't forget to torque to Jags specs.

~Wrair