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I removed the window tint from my front driver and passenger windows. .......I researched methods of removing tint and concluded the best way to approach the job was to use a heat gun. Perhaps there are different adhesive compounds, or I did not follow the online procedure properly. .......... To remove the adhesive, I started with Goo Gone, but while that helped it did not do the job cleanly. A lot of residue remained, and it was hard to remove. I then tried rubbing alcohol - a polar solvent that I've used for many tough cleaning problems - and that worked much better. I finally cleaned the windows with a diluted ammonia solution - a great suggestion of the boss.........
Originally Posted by Cee Jay
I've always used either Carb Cleaner or Brake Cleaner on a rag. Gotta be careful to not get it on any other surfaces, but man it removes sticky gunk super-fast.
Originally Posted by Stuart S
They're strong solvents, and I'd be concerned about the possibility of damaging any printing on those sticky buttons.
Not many window tints have printing or sticky buttons.
Isopropyl alcohol (the stuff I used, right from the medicine cabinet), brake cleaner and carb cleaner are all organic (carbon-containing) compounds. Of the three, alcohol is the safest and least damaging to materials typically found in cars. Chlorinated brake cleaners can be toxic, and if applied to very hot surfaces, will generate phosphene gas, a nerve agent. Also, brake and carb cleaners in contact with plastic and rubber will break these substances down over time.
Isopropyl alcohol is composed only of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, arranged so that one side of the molecule is predominantly positive in charge, the other predominantly negative ("polar"), which is why it is an effective solvent. If you all know this already, I apologize for "mansplaining."
Last edited by Bill Mack; 10-19-2020 at 06:05 AM.
Reason: corrected grammar
Isopropyl alcohol (the stuff I used, right from the medicine cabinet), brake cleaner and carb cleaner are all organic (carbon-containing) compounds. Of the three, alcohol is the safest and least damaging to materials typically found in cars. Chlorinated brake cleaners can be toxic, and if applied to very hot surfaces, will generate phosphene gas, a nerve agent. Also, brake and carb cleaners in contact with plastic and rubber will break these substances down over time.
Isopropyl alcohol is composed only of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, arranged so that one side of the molecule is predominantly positive in charge, the other predominantly negative ("polar"), which is why it is an effective solvent. If you all know this already, I apologize for "mansplaining."
So, Bill, if we get some brake cleaner and spray it onto a hot surface, we make our own nerve agent? I hope no rogue foreign powers are reading this thread
Useful info though (not the nerve agent, the rest) so thanks
Hmmm, maybe I overstated. Phosphene (also spelled phosphine) gas is toxic and potentially fatal if exposure to a high enough concentration for a long enough period, but its toxicity arises primarily from inhalation and does not directly affect the nervous system. I guess I was confusing it with phosgene gas, a "nerve gas" used in WWI that killed thousands of combatants.
Phosphene gas was recently detected in the cloud layer of Venus, and has led some scientists to suspect that life may be present there. Go figure...a deadly gas is a sign of life!
......................................... Gotta be careful to not get it on any other surfaces,......................................
Originally Posted by Bill Mack
................................... Also, brake and carb cleaners in contact with plastic and rubber will break these substances down over time.............................
..........If you all know this already, I apologize for "mansplaining."
1) Yeah, I said all that already
2) I ain't no chick, so mansplaining isn't relevant here
3) Condescension will be ignored, or more likely, reciprocated.
In the last week, I changed the motor oil (Castrol Edge 5-30w and Wix filter), replaced a broken wheel center cap and installed 15mm H&R spacers on the rear wheels to bring the offset out a little more on the Takobas that I recently installed. All done in time for the JDCLI Fall Foliage Rally this past Sunday. (Nice Lynx D-type participated)
Not often I have three Xkr at the same time in my garage
It's not often that I have three XKRs in my garage at the same time. Working on:
1. SIlver coupe , upgrading supercharger pump, lower temperature spark plugs, lower temperature thermostat, replacing old coolant hoses, fixing t boot on the intake
2. White convertible, Bluetooth module Aux enabling
I needed a Set fairly quickly and have heard of the polys being super firm hmm I wonder how much firmer my ride would have actually been in hindsight as im running eibach springs (not the xkrs eibach) but it does handle very well minimal roll
Also had my shock out on the bench , the upper mount had separated and was causing a metallic sound on every bump (very similar sounding to a worn link rod)
Rear trim finally in 😁😁
Last edited by steve_k_xk; 11-01-2020 at 04:50 PM.
I needed a Set fairly quickly and have heard of the polys being super firm hmm I wonder how much firmer my ride would have actually been in hindsight as im running eibach springs (not the xkrs eibach) but it does handle very well minimal roll
No idea as all mine were done together. They last forever and I've had none of the complaints Cambo did when he fitted them to his XJR. IMHO I think they make the car handle much more precisely.
Cambo wasn't a fan of the polys at all (too firm) however even without the polys mine is super firm and the thought of switching to a larger profile/smaller wheel has crossed.my.mind to try and smoothen it out I guess its that trade off handling vs ride quality
Last edited by steve_k_xk; 11-01-2020 at 07:25 PM.
I bought mine with black polys fitted almost 2yrs ago, at that time I test drove 4 others (2 x R's & 2 x NA's) with normal bushes and can confirm my black polybushes are in a different league.
If you drive in areas with lots if speed bumps or uneven/ potholed roads I'd not recommend them. I have perfected the art of keeping my teeth apart (top and bottom set) and my mouth closed when driving over speed bumps and uneven surfaces
But as has been said the steering precision seems pretty sharp
Only plugged mine into CTEK this weekend...may fit winter tyres next week.
I needed a Set fairly quickly and have heard of the polys being super firm hmm I wonder how much firmer my ride would have actually been in hindsight as im running eibach springs (not the xkrs eibach) but it does handle very well minimal roll
I have poly bushes on my 2008 MY XKR 4.2 and I can't tell much difference TBH, in terms of ride comfort I mean. Might be something to consider next time you change the bushes.
Oh, forgot that I canceled my transmission service 20th Nov as lockdown meant all hotels are closed. Much as I like my car I'd hate to have to sleep in it when it was zero outside
I got a bargain on the fluid and paid in total £151/185 USD delivered,when normally would have been over £300/370 USD
I'll do a seperate thread on the change and a review of pros/cons
Bottle on far right is restock of Bilt Hamber Atom-Mac, so when the wheels come off, will be washingand treating my arches and suspension parts and brake discs/rotors
10-18-2020, 10:41 PM
Chem Stuff
2008 XKR Convertible, (mods: AlphaJagTuning ECU Tune , 1.5lb pulley, (200cel cats( are now melted), xpipe, Bosch 001 pump, 180 Thermostat.
