XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

Wheel spacers installed - 2010 XK

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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 04:18 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Queen and Country
The orna are 20x10
Thanks for the info,

You mean Orona? That was mentioned already a few posts up at Post #33

FYI, the Ebay link you posted is for XJ wheels, most likely wrong offset for XK.

Cheers,

Dave



 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 04:31 AM
  #42  
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I had a chance to install (try to install) the H&R 20mm wheel spacers on the front wheels. I had them bolted up but they didn’t want to tighten all the way. My Orona wheels have deep pocket between the lug holes, but I still think there is a tad bit of interference as the factory lug is just slightly offset and doesn’t fit down the recessed portion straight on.

There is plenty of room to cut down on the factory studs. What’s the best way to do this? I have a dremel and sanding disk.. would that work?

Thanks,
Joe

I bet a couple MM would do the trick.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 08:36 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by S-Typer
I had a chance to install (try to install) the H&R 20mm wheel spacers on the front wheels. I had them bolted up but they didn’t want to tighten all the way. My Orona wheels have deep pocket between the lug holes, but I still think there is a tad bit of interference as the factory lug is just slightly offset and doesn’t fit down the recessed portion straight on.
There is plenty of room to cut down on the factory studs. What’s the best way to do this? I have a dremel and sanding disk.. would that work?

Thanks,
Joe

I bet a couple MM would do the trick.

Hi Joe,
A Dremel with a sanding disk will do it, but it will take quite a while. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is quicker and what people seem to use. BUT, I have seen more "hack-jobs" done this way then I have seen correctly done.

If you don't mind some extra time, mount the wheel without the spacer as normal, install 3 lug nuts tightly to insure the wheel is properly mounted against the hub. Then take the 4th lug nut and thread it on counting the revolutions/turns until it seats. IF you have more than 13 turns start by taking off only the extra threads above the 13 turns. If you have an extra M12 nut you can thread on far enough so you can use the surface of the nut as a perfect quide for your cut. Once cut you can the use the sanding disk to smooth out the cut and clean up the starting thread. IF you don't have enough clearance doing it this way then it doesn't matter. But if you can pull this off you will still be safe going back to non-spacers in the future without replacing all the cut studs. Oh, and a little cold zinc spray on the bare metal from the cut is always a good idea.


Hope that makes sense,

Dave
 

Last edited by 10XKR; Jul 30, 2018 at 08:39 AM.
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 09:25 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 10XKR
Hi Joe,
A Dremel with a sanding disk will do it, but it will take quite a while. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is quicker and what people seem to use. BUT, I have seen more "hack-jobs" done this way then I have seen correctly done.

If you don't mind some extra time, mount the wheel without the spacer as normal, install 3 lug nuts tightly to insure the wheel is properly mounted against the hub. Then take the 4th lug nut and thread it on counting the revolutions/turns until it seats. IF you have more than 13 turns start by taking off only the extra threads above the 13 turns. If you have an extra M12 nut you can thread on far enough so you can use the surface of the nut as a perfect quide for your cut. Once cut you can the use the sanding disk to smooth out the cut and clean up the starting thread. IF you don't have enough clearance doing it this way then it doesn't matter. But if you can pull this off you will still be safe going back to non-spacers in the future without replacing all the cut studs. Oh, and a little cold zinc spray on the bare metal from the cut is always a good idea.


Hope that makes sense,

Dave
Good advise, but there shouldn't be any need to get into the threads... All that should be needed for clearance is just the end of the lug that is not threaded... Although With 20mm spacer and bigger I wouldn't think this should be necessary, I only had to do this on my rear that I put 15mm spacers on, fronts with 20mm spacer fit without any clearance issues on mine...
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 12:54 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 10XKR
Hi Joe,
A Dremel with a sanding disk will do it, but it will take quite a while. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is quicker and what people seem to use. BUT, I have seen more "hack-jobs" done this way then I have seen correctly done.

If you don't mind some extra time, mount the wheel without the spacer as normal, install 3 lug nuts tightly to insure the wheel is properly mounted against the hub. Then take the 4th lug nut and thread it on counting the revolutions/turns until it seats. IF you have more than 13 turns start by taking off only the extra threads above the 13 turns. If you have an extra M12 nut you can thread on far enough so you can use the surface of the nut as a perfect quide for your cut. Once cut you can the use the sanding disk to smooth out the cut and clean up the starting thread. IF you don't have enough clearance doing it this way then it doesn't matter. But if you can pull this off you will still be safe going back to non-spacers in the future without replacing all the cut studs. Oh, and a little cold zinc spray on the bare metal from the cut is always a good idea.


Hope that makes sense,

Dave
Thanks for the tips! There is some extra space on the lug without getting into the threads. We will see how it goes..

My studs are pretty rough looking for 32k miles on my 2012 (rusty on non threaded portion). The hot humid air loves the lug nuts too. I ordered replacements to install this week. I’ll wire wheel everything too.. I just couldn’t get the wheel to tighten correctly while trying to use the spacers (the lugs kept trying to get snug with loud rubbing sound).
I went for a ride and knew something wasn’t right. Shimmy and everything. I went back to stock and everything is back perfect again. The only thing I can think of is that the studs need to be trimmed.

I loved the way it looked with the spacers installed. I’ll get it sorted out this week. Going to leave the back stock as I have the 295 tires.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 02:32 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by S-Typer


Thanks for the tips! There is some extra space on the lug without getting into the threads. We will see how it goes..

My studs are pretty rough looking for 32k miles on my 2012 (rusty on non threaded portion). The hot humid air loves the lug nuts too. I ordered replacements to install this week. I’ll wire wheel everything too.. I just couldn’t get the wheel to tighten correctly while trying to use the spacers (the lugs kept trying to get snug with loud rubbing sound).
I went for a ride and knew something wasn’t right. Shimmy and everything. I went back to stock and everything is back perfect again. The only thing I can think of is that the studs need to be trimmed.

I loved the way it looked with the spacers installed. I’ll get it sorted out this week. Going to leave the back stock as I have the 295 tires.
Well once the spacers are on you are going onto the new spacer lug, so double verify that the new spacer lugs are in good shape and your old lug nuts have not damaged the threads... I had a similar issue with a spacer I had and had to clean the threads and I replaced the lug nut and had no other issues... And if you take one of your lug nuts up to auto parts store they can match size and thread for you and can get affordable replacement lug nuts or you can order a set online as well...
 

Last edited by TexasTraveler; Jul 30, 2018 at 02:35 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 07:56 PM
  #47  
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Don't trim the studs if you can avoid it.

Buy a set of chrome Toyota shanked lug nuts and a 21mm lug wrench. Much better versus stock.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 06:36 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50
Don't trim the studs if you can avoid it..
Amen to that!!
 
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Old Feb 29, 2020 | 06:34 PM
  #49  
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I like the idea of 20mm at the front and 15mm at the back - hoping mine will look just like yours!
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:39 PM
  #50  
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I have a 20 x 10" wheel in the back, with 285s, and had to remove my 15mm spacers due to tire rub. Will be looking at going down to 10mm spacers to keep the same stance as it had prior to going to a 10" rim in the back.
 
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Old May 13, 2020 | 07:29 AM
  #51  
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Enroute 10" rim what is it bbs ? and also what's the offset
 
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Old May 13, 2020 | 08:09 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by EnRoute30
I have a 20 x 10" wheel in the back, with 285s, and had to remove my 15mm spacers due to tire rub. Will be looking at going down to 10mm spacers to keep the same stance as it had prior to going to a 10" rim in the back.
If I remember correctly with 15mm spacers you sometimes have to cut the tip (non-threaded) part of the lug off, so I would assume with 10mm spacers you certainly would have to cut at least that if not more depending on how the wheel you have is constructed... Something else to consider...
 
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Old May 13, 2020 | 08:43 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by steve_k_xk
Enroute 10" rim what is it bbs ? and also what's the offset
20x10 5x108 ET40 TSW Gunmetal Ascents
 

Last edited by EnRoute30; May 13, 2020 at 08:45 AM.
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Old May 13, 2020 | 08:47 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by TexasTraveler
If I remember correctly with 15mm spacers you sometimes have to cut the tip (non-threaded) part of the lug off, so I would assume with 10mm spacers you certainly would have to cut at least that if not more depending on how the wheel you have is constructed... Something else to consider...
I didn't have to cut any off my lugs while running the 15mm spacers, but like you said, I figure I may have to trim them some with the 12mm spacers I ended up ordering.
 
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Old May 13, 2020 | 03:50 PM
  #55  
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I have 20mm spacers on the rear with 40 a offset and the original studs still stick out a good few mm , luckily my wheels have recesses cut in to accommodate the studs .

​​​​Even with 25 or possibly 30mm they still might poke out , I measure tomorrow and see how much theyre out .
 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 03:33 PM
  #56  
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So, after going down to a 12mm spacer, my stock wheel studs ended up being about 1/2” too short. I’ll need to replace them with some extended studs in order for the new spacers to work. Does anyone know a good place to order the extended studs, or maybe a part number? Thanks!
 
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