Looks like you have a badly bent LF wheel, too!

 

Latest update...

Was able to get the engine and transmission out myself. My idea was to get professional help for the aluminum structural repair work, but still do as much as possible myself.

After an extensive search, I towed the car to an authorized Jaguar aluminum repair shop. Talked to about 7 different shops, and was amazed at the differences between them.

About half would only touch the car if they did the entire repair. Shops ranged in labor rate from $65 to $125 per hour. I think the high end is the insurance rate, and the low end is for cash.

So far I am very happy with my choice, and if all goes smoothly I will give out the info..

Here is the car at the body shop, up on the frame alignment bench. Waiting for parts to begin the repair...





I hope to have it back from the frame shop around New Years....

Still looking for radiator and bonnet...

-john

 

This looks like a very fun project! glad to see it is coming along. this is a huge undertaking.

I know if it was me i would be getting sidetracked right about now trying to figure out a good way to put in a six speed.

Good luck and have fun!

 

Thanks again for keeping us up to date!

Vince

 

Subscribing to this thread, really interesting project and really good documentation. Nice to see someone who goes about their cars the same way I do (or at least the way I want to do it)

 

Epic Thread! Thanks for doing this!

 

Definitely subscribing to this thread, too.

Thank you for giving me something to look at while at work :-)

 

I echo what everyone has already said. Fantastic thread!!! Will be following this for sure. Good luck with it. Seems like you are tackling it in a methodical way. Love the can do attitude

 

any updates ?

 

If you are searching for parts I highly recommend
Weber Brothers Auto - Vehicle Details

There prices are very reasonable and the shipping is very fast. I don't know the status of the xkr they were parting but it's worth a call.

 

This looks like a great project.Did you ever see the original repair estimate? I would think that that should give you a good cost to compare to. If you can take out the no of hours estimated, this should give you a cost for your parts. Should give some ballpark idea. Good luck and hope that you can have fun doing this.
Paul

 

It’s been a while since my last update, but the good news is that I have have made lots of progress!!!


Car is back from body shop. I used Karosserie in King of Prussia PA. Very happy with the results. I must have talked to 10 shops all over the east coast, and they were the most willing to work on a project car like this.
Here is the car back from the shop.






Next step was to re-install the engine and tranny. Here it is going in…






Had a brief scare when engine wouldn’t turn over by hand when attaching the torque converter to the flexplate. Thought it was seized up. But after a few nervous evenings, found out it was just binding up somewhere, and eventually got it turing….

After engine went in, spent lots of time connecting hoses, fluid lines, connectors, etc. Put in radiators (this car needs lots of cooling!) Filled the fluids… no (major) leaks at this stage.



Charged the battery… Wouldn’t hold the charge… Bought and installed a new OEM battery…

Well so much for the good news…. At this point, the car electronics turn on, dash board lights up, not too many error messages (hood open, tire pressure low!) When I press the Start button, the whole thing shuts down. See video below.


View My Video

I hooked up my OBD reader, expecting to see tons of error codes. Only got a few, which I have trouble interpreting. See the following.



I checked the starter motor “mega-fuse” in the trunk near the batter and it is ok.

The workshop manual lists the following reasons for no crank. But not really sure how to test for some of these.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated….


BTW – here I am (on the left) with my father, and his ’65 TR-4 in the background….

 

I suspect you are gonna have to get some of the computer systems reprogrammed.

Do you have any hard info on the condition of the main computer/ECU?

 

i don't have any hard info about the condition of the ECU....

however it was on the opposite side of the collision. ECU is located in left-rear of engine compartment and accident was right-front. no obvious damage anywhere near the ECU.... or the main wiring harness....

all the instrument cluster lights up, and push buttons work...

I haven't gone through all the fuses yet. There is a starter motor relay in the power distriution box. i can't tell if it is actuating, cause i have to take it apart.... maybe will try that tomorrow...

 

here is what the shop manual says about conditions needed to crank:

 

Wow! You are the MAN!! Huge undertaking, and looks like you have done a superb job thus far. Congrats!!

 

Blimey, it looks more like a computer boot sequence than an engine start! Random thoughts:

• You must be getting through some of the sequence if the car is powering up without trying to start it - stuff like validating the ECM against the instrument panel, etc.
• If the starter relay is activating, I think you'll hear it, since it has to be a pretty meaty relay. If you don't hear anything, it's probably not getting to that stage.
• The ECM needs to see adequate brake pressure (i.e. foot firmly on pedal) before it cranks - do you have the braking system full and bled with no leaks? If it isn't reaching the pressure threshold, the ECM will assume you don't have the brake pedal depressed.
• When you hit the Start button and it all dies, does the button start to pulse again as it does when you first get in? My thought is: if the start conditions aren't fulfilled, especially the brake, then it will think you're turning the car off (i.e. exiting to stand-by mode). So it may not be dying, just turning off.

Sorry if any of this is an egg-sucking manual, but it might be useful - and good luck, you've done great work so far.

 

I'm not a tech and FWIW, I always start my car by pushing the START button BEFORE stepping on the brake. It cranks immediately upon stepping lightly on the brake and the engine always fires right up. Just wanted to point this out since most other cars require depressing the brake pedal before pushing the start button. XKRs will start either way. I didn't know if you were aware of this, or if it might make any difference in your troubleshooting. Just food for thought.

What a Herculean task!

 

Nice job I envy you.

 

Hmmm - mine doesn't work that way, but it's an MY11 car so the ECM and/or firmware will be different. If I forget to stand on the brake and just push Start, the car switches to active mode and everything lights up. I then have to press the pedal and push Start again - just hitting the pedal does not initiate cranking.

Since the OP's car is MY08, it will probably behave like yours. But there will still need to be sufficient pressure in the braking system to reach the threshold to allow cranking.