I'm going in thursday for my yearly oil and filter change along with my NYS inspection. Last year they used 5W-20 Castrol Jag oil at $9.51 per quart. Filter was $42 . Labor was $40 so the total was $160. I'll ask if they have gone to 0W-20 or are sticking with the 5W-20. I am at 19,500 miles on my 2012 XKR .

 

There is a JLR bulletin (USA) on the change from 5w-20 to 0w-20

Which can almost be used as a test to see which dealer is actually paying attention.

The OP's dealer certainly is.

The bulletin was 2 years ago. But many of our cars are totally forgotten and has-beens. Just ask what they are using for Ftype 5.0 and Rover 5.0. Its the exact engine without any differences.

 

The poster 'jagtoes' made a good point- the cross-section drawing on the aj8 gen3 shows the siphon tube going further down than the drain plug.

One day I will siphon out the oil and then remove the drain plug to see if I get anything more.

My suspicion- which was really a question to the forum, I think they replace the drain plug seal on the major service because it wears out??

 

You are right here- oil additives should be avoided at all cost. There are too many unknown variables and it can cause unintended consequences, even with the most benign additives.

Fuel additives are out of our control, different gas stations add different ingredients.

 

I always thought the fan on the back of the seats pushed air INTO the seats, not sucked it out. I don't see how a filter at the very end of the airflow would help anything at all. Also, how would Cooled Seats work if hot butt air was pulled away? More hot butt air would follow.
I may be wrong, I don't know. I suppose I could go check mine........ I will next time I drive it.

 

The fan is sucking cabin air, which is full of dust, from your skin cells, clothes, the carpet and the environment when you have the top down.

No need to experiment, it cant suck air from the seats, you would be blocking the intake.

 

If you never remove the drain plug you do not need to replace the gasket. The sealing ring is either aluminum or copper and it crushes (conforms ) as it gets tightened. Now I would suggest you remove the drain plug maybe at 50K miles and clean the magnet end. The 4.2L engine does not have the provision to remove the oil similar to the 5.0L engine. There you need to remove the drain plug to drain the system which is not a problem as you have to remove the under tray to get at the spin on filter. The 5.0L engine has the filter on top of the engine so no need to get under the car to either drain the oil or replace the filter.

 

Correct.

 

JUST AN FYI:

From: Peter
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2017 4:47 PM
To:
Subject: Re: 30,000 mile service

Left you a VM as well, but I'm inflight so thought I'd write. Looking at the breakdown, it looks like the non-inspection services are: an oil change, a cabin air and seat filter replace, and two services I'm unfamiliar with: the windshield paste and the fuel injector service(s). (My favorite part of this, BTW, is "Inspect Horn". Yeah, I do that about 3 times a day. It's all set.)
Anyway, here's where I'm at:

I change my own cabin air (pollen) filter and seat filter(s) so I don't need that done.
 I would, however, like a brake fluid flush/replace done.
Not clear about what "windscreen paste" is?
 Also unclear about "fuel decarbon service" and "fuel injection service" is (is it anything more than running some kind of cleaner cleaner through the fuel lines?)


So what's the price for:
Oil change, brake fluid flush, and the two fuel services?


Thanks,
Peter

Hi Peter,
I was just working out the numbers with the removal of the seat filters and the pollen filter. The screen wash is washer fluid. The fuel/decarb services and flushes for the fuel injection and intake systems. It removes build-up of carbon and particles. Those two are dealer recommended.
With the addition of the brake flush, but the removal of the other items, the new cost is $1110.64.
Let me know what you decide

Thanks,
Eden

(AT THIS POINT I ASK WHAT ABOUT $900 FOR EVERYTHING)

Good morning,
Yes, the fuel injection/intake cleaning service are dealer recommended. With the removal of the pollen filter and the climate controlled seat filters the total is $1110.64. All of the other inspections you mentioned are performed at no additional charge. I would be happy to take 10% off of the service, but that will not bring it down to $900.00.
Let me know

 

If you're comfortable paying them @$750 an hour I say go for it! Last year I did a DIY tutorial on changing it brake fluid, that was my first time on a Jag it's extremely easy and quick. Again there's under $150 in parts, all mentioned could easily be done in under an hour except that horn check

 

Another update-- "rattling from the supercharger?"

"I was just updated by the technician. We cannot verify any misfiring and the computer does not show any faults. Also, we have not been able to duplicate a vibration from the rear end, but we did find a rattling from the super charger. I will be submitting for that under your extended warranty. This will, however, delay the car. I will not be able to return it to you by Monday:

 

OK had the dealer oil service today and it was same price as last year. $160+tax. They still have the requirement to use 5W-20 Castrol edge pro. They use the 0W-20 on the newer F-type and XJ 5.0L engines. This is the recommendation they have from JLR. Not a problem here. They had a white F-type SVR coupe marked down from $130K to $123K. Real bargin

 

So apparently...

I have both a bad supercharger bearing (and the whole unit needs to be replaced) and a bad transmission mount. These should be covered by my warranty.

And they are recommending the duckbill fix for the AC, at a rate of $600. And the woman I'm working with, who's good, said she's never seen a car come back with the problem after the fix and she would double the warranty to two years on that repair if I want. I think I'm going to do it.

But what, prey tell, is a "bad supercharger bearing?"

 

"Duckbill fix" is a fairly easy DIY... parts cost ".00" just out a small cut into your existing part. You're simply getting hosed by them with their contrived labor and paying over retail for the same parts you could easily source from Amazon or a number of suppliers that also have the very same OEM parts. If it makes you feel good paying them exorbitant prices knock yourself out but there are many indi Jag shops that will do these simple fixes for a fraction of the cost or all but the bearing are simple DIY jobs for the modest mechanic. the fact that they initially quoted you over $1000 for basically an oil change should be a HUGE red flag as to their motive and business ethics. Not sure what you mean by the woman you're working with is "good" if you mean nice while quoting ridiculous pricing then I can't argue with that. Take a look at the pricing JagToes and others were quoted for an oil change - @$100-140 not $1100... I would REALLY be "good" too if my clients paid me 10X market value for my work.

There's an outstanding shop here in San Diego, Coventry, who specializes in only Jags, could easily do all that maintenance for a fraction of what you're being quoted. Go elsewhere do not tell them what needs to be done and get a second opinion otherwise just hand them a charge card and bend over, bite down, cuz this on'es gonna sting a bit

For the record - I beat Rusnak Porsche in a Lemon law case which they vehemently fought so no love loss with me and them.

 

Is there a step by step for changing the seat filters? Also any part number for the Lincoln version of those seat filters? One final comment, much is said about draining oil via suction. Can the oil be drained conventionally from the drain plug? I think so but need some clarification. Thanks all for the discussion. (2010 XK)

 

Once you learn to drain oil by suction, you will never go back. It just takes overcoming old beliefs. I suggest using a pump.

There are many things wrong with needlessly jacking a car designed specifically for the oil to be drained via suction.

 

I did carbon service on my VDP and it was like $300-400 at the time...

Outside of the fliuids, filters & de-carbon, I get same service anytime my car is on a lift...

 

I've always found getting under the car at least once a year was a good idea, gives me the chance to see if there any leaks, things that don't look right, rodent chewed wires, belts, etc.

Speaking only to the 2007 XK - one of the easiest cars to change the oil on. simply remove the front shield and both the drain plug and filter are immediately in front of you so no mess or contorting. Can't speak to the later models or XKR

 

If you have to get under the car to get at the oil filter then it's not a problem pulling the drain plug. As the 5.0L engine has the filter on top of the engine and a nipple in the oil fill cap for an extractor it's easy to do. As for me checking for leaks it's pretty simple as I park on a lift so I look under it every time I park it .

 

its all pretty straight forward till you get into decarb and fuel injection service. think this is fun. I really enjoy getting quotes for dental teeth whitening $450-700. then posting on their webpages or dental forums about Amazon pro whitening gels and diy trays you can make to apply for less than $50.
Septic system for $8500? Damn I can buy the tanks, pumps and lines, rent a back hoe and install for less than $2500.
CPA to do my business taxes for $800! Please bitch I can do my own with TurboTax for $75 and have for the past 20 years.
**** I wired and plumbed my shop AND erected it saving more than $20,000 and the building inspector I know came by and said it looked great and I did a professional job. (Im not licensed but not live in the city) Why spend any money with any professional when between Google, youtube and forums I can learn and do anything....
These topics always crack me up, you would think anyone here could be replaced by either a robot or laptop and a afternoon of learning.