"Back in the Day" everyone used a half a bottle of transmission fluid in the crank case for a few miles before an oil change. Heck, that stuff cleans everything.
I haven't for several years, don't know why not.

 

The engine flush I use is made by transmission fluid experts.
It is the dispersants, detergents, surfacants of trans fluid minus the lubricant.

 

 

 

 

 

To summarize:

With car off, do steps 2-5 within 3 seconds of pressing the on/start button:

1. Press and hold fog light button
2. Press on/start button
3. Release fog light button
4. Press and hold trip button on stalk
5. Press and hold fog light button
   • Display will show resetting service interval
6. Keep holding both trip and fog light buttons (10-15 seconds) until...
   • Display indicates the service interval has reset

This guy explains the sequence well:

 

The above procedure needs to be done evenly and distinctly. On a cadence is the best way for it to work. Also, practice a few times before you actually attempt it, practice helps.

 

Just used an inexpensive diesel oil fluid extractor pump for oil change. Here's the pieces needed and process I used for a quick, easy oil change.

Most of the 12v extractor pumps seem to be the from same manufacturer with different colors and branding so I just bought the cheapest one available via Amazon Prime - a Qiilu for $32. The suction 6mm tube didn't fit into my car's extraction tube so I got a 1/4" push to connect/threaded union from the hardware store which slips and locks onto the pump's suction tube and then the threaded side slips tightly over the car's extraction tube. I used another car's battery to power the pump since my battery is difficult to access.

Process:

1. Check oil level.
2. Warm engine by idling for 10 minutes.
3. Turn off engine and loosen the oil filter cover 4 turns.
4. Wait 10 minutes for oil to settle.
5. Connect the pump to the extractor tube and power supply.
6. Lay pump on a thick shop towel to protect your car from the pump and any oil that might leak from the connections. I re-used 2 old antifreeze containers to collect the used oil.
7. Turn on the pump until the oil stops flowing, then disconnect the pump. (I got about 6.5 quarts removed.)
8. Replace old filter with new filter, and the O-ring on the cartridge cover.
9. Lube the cartridge and filter O-rings with some fresh oil.
10. Re-fit the filter to the car and hand tighten. Torque to spec (25nm)
11. Refill the car with oil using a funnel, replacing the same quatity that was removed.
12. Wait 10 minutes and check oil level. Top off if needed.
13. Re-fit the oil filler cap.
14. Start car, let idle and check for leaks around the oil filter cartridge.

$32 12V 60W Oil/Diesel Fluid Pump on Amazon

$4 fitting from Home Depot connects the pump's suction tube to the car's extraction tube. Perfect fit..

 

Practice? That's funny. Each of my failed attempts watching video after video was great practice. Many videos explained the sequence of buttons but didn't explain exactly when each button needed to be held and released. Since I had experienced this same frustration last time I changed the oil, and previously failed to notate what had worked, I decided to provide more concise steps that worked directly back to the forum. Cheers!

 

 

Forty-fifty years ago oil changes were recommended every 8-10,000 miles.
Modern engines are infinitely better engineered and exponentially cleaner and more efficient.
Oil has also dramatically improved in both content and additives.....
So, what does that mean??? Oil change "recommendations" are completely crap and only advised to increase sales and therefore profits.
The best thing to do is have an OAP performed, multi-spectrum oil analysis done, and that can show all kinds of information including contaminates (which can show engine wear specifics) and oil condition after removal.
It's not a horrible practice to replace engine oil annually, as environmental conditions could possibly affect the properties of engine oil.

BEST OIL?????
Wow, you just opened up a huge can-o'-worms.
Me, I just changed mine with that new Castrol Modern Engine oil. Supposedly it's the only modern oil made specifically to reduce contamination caused by direct injection.
Besides, isn't quality oil pretty much quality oil, regardless of marketing and other such ploys?
"But,but, but!!!!!" all sorts of people will say....... Jag Specs and OEM Recommendations and all such hooey. Oil protects metal parts while contacting metal parts, that's what it's for. That's all it does..... plus 'additives'.

 

And then the fight began! lol

The best advice is to search through the forum for 5.0l engine oil and you'll be up to speed on the controversy.

 

 

Oil filters: To date, I have compared 4 filters. Without any type of testing equipment, I judged them side by side by looking at construction. This was looking at pleat count and depth, how well the element was sealed against against the upper and lower body, and the seam where the pleat was adhered to itself. Of the 4 so far (Mahle, Wix, Hastings, and Beck Arnley) the Beck Arnley is my personal choice.

As said earlier... No one here like to talk oils, as the opinions get totally out of control (it rate very close to politics in its reaction).

But as for oil changes the majority of the auto industry recommends changes depending upon driving conditions. Sadly the definition of 'Normal' driving conditions border upon wishful thinking. Normal is the perfect day, no rain, no snow, no high humidity, no freezing or hot temperatures (IE a perfectly flat 70 degrees). Few people understand that the real world driving we do actually falls in the 'Extreme' conditions category.
As Jaguar refuses to release information about this 'extreme' category, I personally recomend what every other manufacturer out there says, which is to double the oil changes in the same time frame as the 'normal category.. I personally do it at every 5000 miles, with a new filter every 2500 miles, but then I'm **** about keeping my oils clean.....

Vince

 

 

Political correctness is not necessary. Just use logic.
You want an oil that is proven in your type of car*, and anyone can prove to you that their recommendation works in the long run, go with that.

*Lots of folks dont realize in all other cars, oil is used for lubrication, cleaning and cooling.
In our 5.0 engine its also most crucially used to control the timing of the engine.

Castrol and Ravenol both have JLR certifications, and the only ones I know that do.

 

The funny part is that Jaguar went out of the way to make sure they retained a monopoly on their recommended oil with that mysterious 'Unobtainium' property.
If I were under warranty, then yes... use the Unobtainium that JLR tries to control. My engines are 9 and 12 years old, and I have no qualms utilizing other top quality synths.

I now consider the 'Unobtainium' oil as just another attempt by Jaguar to discourage owners from taking thier car to anyone other than a Dealership.
I choose not to play their game.

For the OP: Also note that many Jag owners are financially well off, so while they shrug off a $250 oil change as nothing but pocket change, I scream in horror!

Vince

 

Not true guy.
It looks that way from where we stand in America.
In Europe there are plenty of alternatives and always have been, so no monopoly.

Look at it another way.
Mobil1 makes the oil we need, blended to that very spec (which is no monopoly)...guess what Mobil1 wont sell that in America.
Guess what else, Motul wont sell the oil in America either.

I dont know why, but it cannot be anything to do with Jaguar.

 

I'd take a guess that there is a deeper business relationship between Jaguar and Castrol that prevented it.

Because the blend (according to Jaguar) was formulated specifically for the Jaguar engine, I would think they (Jaguar) retained certain copyrights, in exchange for a distribution agreement with Castrol. For the venture to be profitable for Castrol, I doubt significant R&D was invested, due to the limited market of Jaguar dealerships world wide. Castrol could not hope to sell enough to regain a serious investment. (We are likely under the 1% mark of cars made every year.)
If Mobil1 has the spec now, then it could also be related to the time a copyright holds power, which in the US I believe is 7 years.

I can't say your wrong, but thinking about it from a possible business model, I see room to simply ask Castrol to toss a fleck of unobtainium in their Edge oils, and lock it down the formula as 'exclusive' to Jaguar.
The business model seems sound from my perspective, and I highly doubt the oil carries any necessary properties over the base Castrol Edge synth when it comes to engines outside their warranty.

Just my personal perspective, nothing more......
V