XKR
#1
#2
It all depends on the particular car and price. You are dealing with a ten year old car here. If you really like it and are seriously considering the purchase. I suggest getting a Jaguar dealer pre-purchase inspection (PPI). The PPI is just like the inspection done on CPO cars and costs about $250-$300. In addition I would also have the car inspected by a Jaguar approved body shop; that should cost no more than an additional $250.
If the car passes the inspections then you should be good to go. Even if it doesn't you will know what needs to be done in order to make it acceptable. One further point XKs love to be driven. It looks as if this vehicle has averaged about 7k miles per year, not a lot of miles. Another point scour the XK threads utilizing the search box for any particular problems to be aware of. Most problem areas have already been discovered and are well documents. One last thought don't limit your search to your local area. Anyway, good luck with your hunt and keep us informed.
If the car passes the inspections then you should be good to go. Even if it doesn't you will know what needs to be done in order to make it acceptable. One further point XKs love to be driven. It looks as if this vehicle has averaged about 7k miles per year, not a lot of miles. Another point scour the XK threads utilizing the search box for any particular problems to be aware of. Most problem areas have already been discovered and are well documents. One last thought don't limit your search to your local area. Anyway, good luck with your hunt and keep us informed.
#3
The car is 11 years old and thats 6356 miles per year. Not high mileage by any means. Yes you can find lower mileage cars but they will add a premium. Fewer miles doesn't mean better when it comes to bushings and seals. Age kills them just as quickly and sometime quicker if the car is just sitting.
As Ralph suggests, get a PPI. Also, get your hands on the maintenance history. I wouldn't buy any car without a complete history, but that's me.
A carfax will show you where the car was serviced and you can reach out to those dealerships and get the history. Some will act like their medical records and fight releasing them but you can tell them to de-identify the owners name and they should cooperate.
Carfax may also show gaps in maintenance, which usually means some indy or dealer didn't participate in carfax or the car wasn't maintained during that period, or DIY'er (least likely on an XK).
As Ralph suggests, get a PPI. Also, get your hands on the maintenance history. I wouldn't buy any car without a complete history, but that's me.
A carfax will show you where the car was serviced and you can reach out to those dealerships and get the history. Some will act like their medical records and fight releasing them but you can tell them to de-identify the owners name and they should cooperate.
Carfax may also show gaps in maintenance, which usually means some indy or dealer didn't participate in carfax or the car wasn't maintained during that period, or DIY'er (least likely on an XK).
The following users liked this post:
ralphwg (12-10-2017)
#4
Never rely on CarFax as your primary due diligence since they don't report everything; CarFax reports only those events that are reported to them. Just because CarFax reports a vehicle to be one owner with no accident history doesn't mean it's true. Read the CarFax Terms and Conditions and Disclaimers.
But a CarFax report showing negative events, such as accident history or a salvage title, is good reason to pass on that vehicle. Location history is important, to check for possible flood damsge.
+1 on both Jaguar dealer PPI for mechanicals and body shop authorized to do Jaguar aluminum repairs for body/paint work.
But a CarFax report showing negative events, such as accident history or a salvage title, is good reason to pass on that vehicle. Location history is important, to check for possible flood damsge.
+1 on both Jaguar dealer PPI for mechanicals and body shop authorized to do Jaguar aluminum repairs for body/paint work.
#5
I think it all depends on price versus your intended use and duty way more than mileage. These early cars are an amazing monocoque framework with a conglomeration of common parts bolted on from more pedestrian cars. Engine is bulletproof, ZF6 trans used throughout the industry, suspension from other Jags, Fords and Lincolns. Interior and body are about the only XK specific wear items so as long as they are acceptable go for it. Common parts pricing isn't horrible, the service manuals are out there for free and this forum is full of knowledgeable folks.
Post a link to the sale ad and you'll get more relevant info on whether this one is a good deal or not. I would definitely get an XKR if you can versus the base XK. 420 very drive able effortless horsepower is a lot of fun at any speed.
Post a link to the sale ad and you'll get more relevant info on whether this one is a good deal or not. I would definitely get an XKR if you can versus the base XK. 420 very drive able effortless horsepower is a lot of fun at any speed.
#6
Take a 100,000 mile car with all bearings fluids and bushings just replaced, that car is likely in better shape than a 30,000 mile car that hasn't been worked on.
What sort of risks and wants you personally have can vary what is important.
I had a lot of trust in the X150 model in general, I drove my car, looked in the wheel wells, under the car, in the hood, and bought the car right there.
You evidently do not have the trust/risk tolerance, so the pre purchase inspection is probably a good way to go.
Buying from an owner with all maintenance records is desirable.
With any used car out of warranty, there is always risk of failure of some sort, or some pieces in need of replacement.
At 70,000 miles, if not done, it could perhaps use bushings, shocks, bearings, but these aren't solely dependent on miles alone for their wear. Drive it if, if you like it, and are willing to take the risk on a used Jaguar go buy it.
Personally I am not afraid of mechanical work, but dislike strongly cosmetic work. I look at a car's cosmetic condition to be paramount for me. Mechanical issues bother me a lot less.
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#8
What bearings only last 70K miles on these cars? On 12 of the Jags I have owned, and hundreds of thousands of miles driven, the only bearing that ever needed replacement was a half shaft U-Joint on a '69 E-Type.
#9
I agree with bushings, shocks, and anything rubber or plastic needing replacement after ten years/70K miles.
What bearings only last 70K miles on these cars? On 12 of the Jags I have owned, and hundreds of thousands of miles driven, the only bearing that ever needed replacement was a half shaft U-Joint on a '69 E-Type.
What bearings only last 70K miles on these cars? On 12 of the Jags I have owned, and hundreds of thousands of miles driven, the only bearing that ever needed replacement was a half shaft U-Joint on a '69 E-Type.
Eventful w/e guys!
It went into jaguar main dealers on Friday and although they thought it was bearings, they couldn't say for certain until stripped down and couldn't find any 'play'!
they wanted £1200 to change both hubs!
Anyway, I opted to buy two new hubs from somewhere else and fit myself. Wasn't easy as they were seized into the strut with corrosion and two of the bolts were torx type and you have to take off the anti roll bar drop link.
It has fixed the problem!
Both now spin nice and quiet and on inspection behind the old covers, the grease was all dried up and in hard lumps so the bearings were struggling.
A fraction of the cost anyway
While it was at the dealers, I asked about steering wheel creak and it needs a new clock spring fitting and they quoted £200. Any advice on that? Airbag has to come off so prob can't do myself.
Cheers guys for all the help, got there in the end!
It went into jaguar main dealers on Friday and although they thought it was bearings, they couldn't say for certain until stripped down and couldn't find any 'play'!
they wanted £1200 to change both hubs!
Anyway, I opted to buy two new hubs from somewhere else and fit myself. Wasn't easy as they were seized into the strut with corrosion and two of the bolts were torx type and you have to take off the anti roll bar drop link.
It has fixed the problem!
Both now spin nice and quiet and on inspection behind the old covers, the grease was all dried up and in hard lumps so the bearings were struggling.
A fraction of the cost anyway
While it was at the dealers, I asked about steering wheel creak and it needs a new clock spring fitting and they quoted £200. Any advice on that? Airbag has to come off so prob can't do myself.
Cheers guys for all the help, got there in the end!
Last edited by Tervuren; 12-09-2017 at 06:03 PM.
#12
The car is 11 years old and thats 6356 miles per year. Not high mileage by any means. Yes you can find lower mileage cars but they will add a premium. Fewer miles doesn't mean better when it comes to bushings and seals. Age kills them just as quickly and sometime quicker if the car is just sitting.
As Ralph suggests, get a PPI. Also, get your hands on the maintenance history. I wouldn't buy any car without a complete history, but that's me.
A carfax will show you where the car was serviced and you can reach out to those dealerships and get the history. Some will act like their medical records and fight releasing them but you can tell them to de-identify the owners name and they should cooperate.
Carfax may also show gaps in maintenance, which usually means some indy or dealer didn't participate in carfax or the car wasn't maintained during that period, or DIY'er (least likely on an XK).
As Ralph suggests, get a PPI. Also, get your hands on the maintenance history. I wouldn't buy any car without a complete history, but that's me.
A carfax will show you where the car was serviced and you can reach out to those dealerships and get the history. Some will act like their medical records and fight releasing them but you can tell them to de-identify the owners name and they should cooperate.
Carfax may also show gaps in maintenance, which usually means some indy or dealer didn't participate in carfax or the car wasn't maintained during that period, or DIY'er (least likely on an XK).
#15
#16
Still, if something like that is local on the off chance it isn't, it can be worth checking.
They do take down scam's, but the scammers just start up again with a new name. I've seen a few. If it got removed the first time, you can just keep going if you care when you see it again. Moderating takes input, if something isn't reported when it pops up again they won't know.
The car I see that keeps popping up is a black 2013 with brown interior, very unusual, the real one was for sale in Texas, the fake listings keep coming back with the real one's pictures and from different websites and users.
In my case, if I like one of a car, I'd probably like two. I've never stopped browsing X150's for sale since I bought mine original. Definitely a good scam percentage. There was an XKR-S that kept making threads pop up on here regularly.
Last edited by Tervuren; 12-09-2017 at 08:35 PM.
#17
That is what I figured, price way to good to be true.
Still, if something like that is local on the off chance it isn't, it can be worth checking.
They do take down scam's, but the scammers just start up again with a new name. I've seen a few. If it got removed the first time, you can just keep going if you care when you see it again. Moderating takes input, if something isn't reported when it pops up again they won't know.
The car I see that keeps popping up is a black 2013 with brown interior, very unusual, the real one was for sale in Texas, the fake listings keep coming back with the real one's pictures and from different websites and users.
In my case, if I like one of a car, I'd probably like two. I've never stopped browsing X150's for sale since I bought mine original. Definitely a good scam percentage. There was an XKR-S that kept making threads pop up on here regularly.
Still, if something like that is local on the off chance it isn't, it can be worth checking.
They do take down scam's, but the scammers just start up again with a new name. I've seen a few. If it got removed the first time, you can just keep going if you care when you see it again. Moderating takes input, if something isn't reported when it pops up again they won't know.
The car I see that keeps popping up is a black 2013 with brown interior, very unusual, the real one was for sale in Texas, the fake listings keep coming back with the real one's pictures and from different websites and users.
In my case, if I like one of a car, I'd probably like two. I've never stopped browsing X150's for sale since I bought mine original. Definitely a good scam percentage. There was an XKR-S that kept making threads pop up on here regularly.
#18
Welcome to forum! There's a lot of good info and advice here. I'm still fairly new myself, having bought my 2008 XKR Portfolio Coupé only about 8 months ago I think.
You'll love the XKR! I test drove both 2007 and 2011 XKR ragtops as well as my own XKR before deciding on mine.
Echoing others here, and sounds like you are already on it, but having it checked for a clean bill of health is a smart move, as with any vehicle purchase. Browse the forums a bit and you can find common issues with these cars and their diagnoses as well as fixes. Have them check for such things. Having just finished up the 'valley hose' mess, can't recommend this enough. If you can have some of these things rectified before taking delivery, or more importantly, before they occur later on.
Price is steep sure, but if the car makes your heart skip a beat when you look back at it after parking and gives you 'the fizz' while driving it, it'll be worth it. Besides used car prices are high now and a couple of the X150 for sale here locally are mid 20s even with much higher mileage than your own.
Enjoy your new car and once again, welcome!
You'll love the XKR! I test drove both 2007 and 2011 XKR ragtops as well as my own XKR before deciding on mine.
Echoing others here, and sounds like you are already on it, but having it checked for a clean bill of health is a smart move, as with any vehicle purchase. Browse the forums a bit and you can find common issues with these cars and their diagnoses as well as fixes. Have them check for such things. Having just finished up the 'valley hose' mess, can't recommend this enough. If you can have some of these things rectified before taking delivery, or more importantly, before they occur later on.
Price is steep sure, but if the car makes your heart skip a beat when you look back at it after parking and gives you 'the fizz' while driving it, it'll be worth it. Besides used car prices are high now and a couple of the X150 for sale here locally are mid 20s even with much higher mileage than your own.
Enjoy your new car and once again, welcome!
#19
MoparDude,
It appears that you are another victim of the "Infinite Scroll" feature.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...scroll-208224/
That's why you replied to a 2017 post instead of your intended reply to Jagette.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ew-jag-248869/
I turned Infinite Scroll off. You can, too.
Stuart
It appears that you are another victim of the "Infinite Scroll" feature.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...scroll-208224/
That's why you replied to a 2017 post instead of your intended reply to Jagette.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ew-jag-248869/
I turned Infinite Scroll off. You can, too.
Stuart
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MoparDude (07-16-2021)
#20
MoparDude,
It appears that you are another victim of the "Infinite Scroll" feature.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...scroll-208224/
That's why you replied to a 2017 post instead of your intended reply to Jagette.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ew-jag-248869/
I turned Infinite Scroll off. You can, too.
Stuart
It appears that you are another victim of the "Infinite Scroll" feature.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...scroll-208224/
That's why you replied to a 2017 post instead of your intended reply to Jagette.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ew-jag-248869/
I turned Infinite Scroll off. You can, too.
Stuart