Had an interesting experiance. I am trying to catch up on the Maintainence the previous owner did not do on my 2007 XKR. Front Brakes and Air Filters were next on the list. I found the Air Filter Boxes to be extremely tight and lots of dirt inside, filters were abysmally dirty. Vacumed, cleaned and scrubbed both left and right boxes. When I obtained filters the store did not have two of the same brand. So I ended up with 1 BECK ARNLEY and one MAHLE. Never had a "dash" indication of bad filter or Air Flow sensor failure before but after changing, in less than 100 miles I had one. Took everything back apart, more cleaning, sprayed dry silicon lube to make assembly easier. Problem remained. Ordered another MAHLE filter, put it in and so far the problem is gone. Has any one else encountered this?

 

The only thing I can think of is that the two different branded air filters you had were letting different volumes of air through meaning that one bank of your engine was getting more air to fuel than the other bank. This would throw up an air flow problem as obviously both sides should have the same air to fuel ratio

 

I am looking at checking my air filters. Was it difficult to do and locate on the xkr.....cheers.

 

The difference between the air flow of the two different brand filters was initially discarded by my parts supplier as hogwash. Both are manufactured to Jaguar specs. But so far the light has not come back on and I cannot come up with any other answer that fits. So, yes, I agree with you until proven otherwise.

 

On the XKR we have two filters, one on each side of the car and they are in front of the wheels behind the inner fender skirt. The instructions would have you remove the front bottom shield and release the front of the skirt (8-10 screws) and bend it back over the brake rotor. I found the second time that removing the bottom shield was not necessary so it saved a little time. The air boxes are held closed by two screws rather than clips. If you do not clean all of the interior of the box very well, when you put the screws back in it will strip the threads trying to overcome the dirt. The covers fit very tightly and I found spray silicon lubricant to help when trying to re-assemble. Check the gap and don't tighten the screws if there is more than a fingernails width after assembly. Worst case, small rubber hammer to get the last mm of gap closed.

 

Thanks for the info. I will get onto it this weekend hopefully.

 

After installing two MAHLE: LX2671 filters the problem with the check engine amber light has gone to intermittant but problem is not cured. Talked to jaguar dealer and he indicated that "real" jaguar filters will probably cure the issue. Plopped down $100 for two "Jaguar" air filters and will install this weekend. My kitty may just be darned picky about breathing thru aftermarket filters. -- The Saga Continues --

 

IT IS your damn issue, they not only need to be the same brand. but jaguar found out that even the same matching date code!!!!. just the differance in filter media construction from one batch to another can cause air to fuel ratio imbalances and check engine lights. We used to deal with this all the time till jaguar now only supplied them in a "paired matched set" tell your parts guy this is the 21st century and no longer as simple as he wants to think. Order a set or go pick them up at the dealer, its not hogwash

 

Been reading this with interest. If the sensors are that sensitive, what would happen if you go down a dusty road and one filter gets slightly more clogged than the other. Or just through normal use. One is more clogged than the other Would that not throw up a warning light?
I was going to get on to checking mine today. I will leave it until i get more feed back i think

 

Interesting thought.
Thinking "outside the box", I could envision the curb-side filter picking up more dirt, dust, water and debris than the side closer to the road crown. Only the XKR owners can say for sure...

 

Umm - do these cars have two superchargers then, one for each bank each with its own MAFS ???
That's an original design.
Two throttle bodies, two contra-rotating s/cs to spin the air in the correct direction for each bank, two (maybe three) ECMs to get a majority decision.
Add steer by wire and it's an A380.

 

No theyre 1 inlet y'd into a single SC and TB but 2 mafs and filters. Also the inlets are up behind the front bumper cover and draw in fairly clean air. Youde have to be in a sand storm in dubai to get that much dust and dirt in the inlets, theyre pretty isolated behind the cover. And submerge the front end to get water in the inlets almost even with the top of the headlights. Doubt what you want, he just proved there is an issue and i just passed on the info well known if youre a jaguar tech

 

Right, it's the two MAFS that screw it up then.
What on Earth do they want 2 MAFS for (apart from causing b*gg*ration if the two airflows are different)?

 

Young engineer who wouldn't listen to the old engineer going on about the problems synchronising multiple carburetors. Said young engineer went on to prove his elders wrong by engine dynomometer testing in a clean room with no filters at all. He was also so sure of his code that he did not even think to integrate the readings between the two signal sources. Old engineer got laid off.

That's about par with the fact that it is possible to hack into modern avionics on commercial airliners with .... an android phone .... because the designers never conceived of the thought that secure avionics networks might be a good idea. The networks use open protocols.

You can sit in economy class, fire up a android phone with the right software and display any information of your choice on the cockpit instrumentation ... including navigation systems.

 

Thanks for the additional information. I was beginning to think I was nuts. I only had time to change the left (drivers side USA) filter this weekend with one of the pair I obtained from the dealer. No light so far (50 miles / 2 stops). I was hoping if this worked I could use 1 jag and 1 other (I now have three non-jag filters) and eventually use them up. But as you indicated, I see that there are MAF sensors on each side so I am probably going to have to finish the job this week and the light will come on halfway home today. Driving around town making at least 3 stops seems to cause the light to go out. Highway (70 - 90 mph) seems to make it go on. I read somewhere you have to make three stop/start groups for the statistics to be fully read and acted upon. Can someone validate that please? I have to get the car inspected in June and have to make sure the #$% code doesn't show up.

 

it depends on the code and what it looks for ie..
some codes need 2 consecutive drive cylcle
some 2 drive cycles period not needed back to back
some 1 event
codes never go away, but the light can go away if it doesnt see the fault on the drive cycles, and im not gonna reprint all the parameters for a drive cycle too much typing

 

This has gone from anytime I hit the Highway to Only if I cruise at more than 70 mph for 20 minutes or so, then the amber light comes on. Goes away when I just run around town or get into slow heavy traffic. Had the code checked several times and it always ends in "B".

Question: Is there a "defined" side B for the XKR and if so, which side, USA Drivers, or GB Drivers Side?

The clean, same build code filters did help, but looks like one or more MAF sensors need to be replaced in near future if I want to run with the big dogs. I have heard that just cleaning them doesn't work very often and If I have to remove them, I think I would rather replace with new. So the question is which one to start with for replacement.

 

Try this-

 

B bank on your car is left side(drivers side US)

 

Thanks to both of you. I should have the cash to buy a new sensor Friday and will install on drivers side. Fingers, eyes and toes crossed for luck.