XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

XKR owners, pull fuse 19!

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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 10:50 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Ngarara
There's no mention of Dynamic Mode opening the valves in either workshop manual, but it does. I suspect the full specs of how the active exhaust operates just aren't documented.
I thought one of the "tricks" to make the car SOUND more aggressive without really doing much to the engine was the "performance active exhaust" vs the regular "active exhaust". From what we know:

1- The active exhaust has 2 in line resonators to control sound vs the performance active exhaust having a X-pipe. More sound...

2- They must have done something with the performance active exhaust and dynamic mode causing the flaps to stay open. Literally in my garage where sound is echoing while outside my coupe if they hit the dynamic switch the noise gets LOUDER. I did not notice this at all with my 2012 XKR with the standard exhaust. I think any performance active exhaust has the mild2wild jaguar version built in requiring dynamic mode to open those flaps when engaged...... while the active exhaust does not seem to do it!

Loth
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 05:50 AM
  #82  
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Yeah, the PAE deletes the centre silencers and puts in a crossover - there's probably a small performance gain as well as a better sound, but no-one at Jag will confirm that. However, the back box, where the active valves live, is the same for both systems.

You could well be right, though - the logic that controls when the valves lock open may be different between the standard active and the PAE systems. Maybe Dynamic Mode only opens the valves if you have the PAE (which would explain why some people observe it and some don't). Putting the car in manual, however, seems to work with any active exhaust.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 05:22 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Stuart S
Good luck starting your car! Fuse 19 in the engine compartment fuse box is NOT for the Active Exhaust; it is for the starter motor!

Fuse 19 for the Active Exhaust is located in the fuse box behind the rear seat center section. Removing it is very easy.

To remove the rear seat center section, grasp the sides near the top and pull it sharply towards you to pop out the upper retaining pegs. The center section should then swing down to expose the fuse box. When refitting that center section be sure to align the upper retaining pegs with their respective holes before pushing the center section back in place.

Fuse 19 is on the right side, immediately below fuse 20 (which may be a vacant slot). Fuse 19 is red and is 10 Amps. You can remove it with the fuse puller tool in the upper right corner.

See the manual: TOPIx - TOPIx Scroll down the left side and click on Fuses to take you to that section for fuse box locations, contents, diagrams, etc.

I removed fuse 19 over 2 years ago and like the sound better that way.

Stuart
Thanks for the info, I will be removing no. 19 in the morning!!
 
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 01:37 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by gjjaguar
Thanks for the info, I will be removing no. 19 in the morning!!
AND...what did you think??!?!?!?!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 07:53 PM
  #85  
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I pulled mine last week and finally had a clear day on Saturday to take her for a spin. Me like!!!! The slight difference is enough to hear that low end growl, making it sound more like the sports GT it is.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 07:24 AM
  #86  
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i pulled the fuse - noticed somewhat more of a lower rpm gurgle, but only in manual mode (more details in my prior quote from last year) - i then replaced the fuse and had my mechanic permanently open the valves with industrial quality tie backs (quick, low cost job - easily reversed) - now she sounds loud and throaty at any speed and in any mode - to me, much better than pulling the fuse - it is ultimately a personal choice, so i simply mention this as an option to consider
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 04:46 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by rhj
i pulled the fuse - noticed somewhat more of a lower rpm gurgle, but only in manual mode (more details in my prior quote from last year) - i then replaced the fuse and had my mechanic permanently open the valves with industrial quality tie backs (quick, low cost job - easily reversed) - now she sounds loud and throaty at any speed and in any mode - to me, much better than pulling the fuse - it is ultimately a personal choice, so i simply mention this as an option to consider
Interesting. Any more info and/or photos to show what to tie back? I was under the impression that all the valve mechanism was internal.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 06:00 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by 8bit
Interesting. Any more info and/or photos to show what to tie back? I was under the impression that all the valve mechanism was internal.
If it is the same as my 2012 you will see there is a wire that comes out of the valve mushroom. The valve is vacuum actuated so when vacuum is applied it pulls the wire which turns a lever . The valve is NORMALLY OPEN meaning when there is no vacuum on it the exhaust is open and is the same as running with fuse 19 pulled in your year car. All you need to do is pull the small vacuum tube off of the mushroom and plug it. No need to wire anything up as the valve will stay open all of the time. When you start the car you hear a louder exhaust note for a few seconds as these 2 valves close off that exhaust section. There is a vacuum solenoid valve (fuse 19 activates) that is activated at start up which sends vacuum to these 2 valves and closes them. There are other ways to stop the function but I think pulling the vacuum lines and plugging them is the easiest.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 12:36 PM
  #89  
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Isn´t it easier to pull the fuse than to work under the car
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 01:15 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by thocar
Isn´t it easier to pull the fuse than to work under the car
Yes I would think so but the OP wanted to know how to dismantle the system. Also I don't know what other system is being run on fuse 19.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 01:47 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
Also I don't know what other system is being run on fuse 19.
Only the active exhaust
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 02:23 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
If it is the same as my 2012 you will see there is a wire that comes out of the valve mushroom. The valve is vacuum actuated so when vacuum is applied it pulls the wire which turns a lever . The valve is NORMALLY OPEN meaning when there is no vacuum on it the exhaust is open and is the same as running with fuse 19 pulled in your year car. All you need to do is pull the small vacuum tube off of the mushroom and plug it. No need to wire anything up as the valve will stay open all of the time. When you start the car you hear a louder exhaust note for a few seconds as these 2 valves close off that exhaust section. There is a vacuum solenoid valve (fuse 19 activates) that is activated at start up which sends vacuum to these 2 valves and closes them. There are other ways to stop the function but I think pulling the vacuum lines and plugging them is the easiest.
My car has a Milltek system, the rear box has no valves and the two vacuum pipes are plugged, i have fuse 19 pulled but only to stop vacuum in the plugged tubes.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 03:44 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by powerhouse
My car has a Milltek system, the rear box has no valves and the two vacuum pipes are plugged, i have fuse 19 pulled but only to stop vacuum in the plugged tubes.
Makes sense.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 02:57 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
If it is the same as my 2012 you will see there is a wire that comes out of the valve mushroom. The valve is vacuum actuated so when vacuum is applied it pulls the wire which turns a lever . The valve is NORMALLY OPEN meaning when there is no vacuum on it the exhaust is open and is the same as running with fuse 19 pulled in your year car. All you need to do is pull the small vacuum tube off of the mushroom and plug it. No need to wire anything up as the valve will stay open all of the time. When you start the car you hear a louder exhaust note for a few seconds as these 2 valves close off that exhaust section. There is a vacuum solenoid valve (fuse 19 activates) that is activated at start up which sends vacuum to these 2 valves and closes them. There are other ways to stop the function but I think pulling the vacuum lines and plugging them is the easiest.
That was my understanding too, but from what I read into rhj's post it sounded like physically pinning the actuators open made more difference than removing the fuse. That would suggest that the valves aren't completely open normally.

I had a look today though, my valves (on my 4.2 XKR at any rate) are completely wide open with the fuse removed. No more free noise for me, shopping for a new rear silencer now
 
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #95  
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I prefer the fuse approach, because then you can reactivate the system occasionally to keep it in working order - the next owner might not want the permanent full-on soundtrack.

Actually, I'm considering the Mild2Wild remote system to bypass the fuse on demand; that way, I can keep on good terms with my neighbours
 
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 11:15 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by Ngarara
I prefer the fuse approach, because then you can reactivate the system occasionally to keep it in working order - the next owner might not want the permanent full-on soundtrack.

Actually, I'm considering the Mild2Wild remote system to bypass the fuse on demand; that way, I can keep on good terms with my neighbours
Before you spend the money on the mild2wild brand kit give me a week and I'm going to do a write up on how to make and install the kit for way cheaper. Hopefully will also have my full control system done as well.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 05:30 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by RainsFather
Before you spend the money on the mild2wild brand kit give me a week and I'm going to do a write up on how to make and install the kit for way cheaper. Hopefully will also have my full control system done as well.
Thanks! No hurry - I don't have a garage, so I won't be doing anything until it gets a bit warmer.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 08:16 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by RainsFather
Before you spend the money on the mild2wild brand kit give me a week and I'm going to do a write up on how to make and install the kit for way cheaper. Hopefully will also have my full control system done as well.
Cool, I'd be interested to see that too. Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 04:38 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by amcdonal86
I know this is an old trick, but I just pulled fuse 19 (disabling the active exhaust butterfly valves). The difference is actually very subtle, but it does have a little bit more of a growling sound at lower RPMs, and it's much less of an "on/off" switch with the exhaust than it was before. I went for a test drive on the highway--I was very surprised to see that there is virtually no difference in engine/exhaust noise on the highway (at low loads). Also there is virtually no difference in engine/exhaust noise on startup and at idle, if anyone is worried about that. It truly is the way the car was meant to sound--muscular but still very refined.

How many of you guys have pulled fuse 19, and for those of you with XKRs who haven't, why not?!

Also, while I was back there, I removed the fuse for the "power aerial" since I really hate looking like I'm from 1995 when I'm driving the car with the audio on.
Your dead on with the antenna !!
I cannot seam to find this fuse #19 for the exhaust baffles. I look through the book and nothing I can find. I do have an 2001 XKR and was that an option?
Thanks for all the support here.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 08:03 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Loanking
Your dead on with the antenna !!
I cannot seam to find this fuse #19 for the exhaust baffles. I look through the book and nothing I can find. I do have an 2001 XKR and was that an option?
Thanks for all the support here.
The 2001 XKR (X100) is a very different car - it doesn't have the active exhaust system found on the 2006-onwards (X150) aluminium-bodied XKR. It's a pair of vacuum-operated valves that close and force the exhaust flow through the rear muffler between about 1500 & 3800 rpm (the 4.2 & 5.0 cars use slightly different rpm levels) to make the car quieter in normal driving. The valves stay open at all rpm if you're in manual-shift mode, to increase the 'sporty' effect. However, if you yoink fuse 19, the system is disabled and the valves are permanently open, making the car louder all the time regardless of what mode it's in.
 
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