I have a '98 XK8 and when I open the door the window rolls down slightly so the door can be opened but it is not going back up automatically like it used to. Also if pull the door handle repeatedly it will keep rolling down farther and farther!

I am hoping this is no more than a bad battery...the car has not been driven in a while...any advice would be great. Thanks so much.

 

You obviously know about this being a symptom of low voltage from the battery.

Did you try setting the up/down limits with the window control switch?

All the way down and hold the switch for an additional 4-5 seconds until you hear a click. All the way up and hold for the click.

Let us know.

 

That did it! Thanks. I am taking it on a 900 mile road trip today and hopefully that will recharge the battery.

 

If it recurs soon, battery is definitely the problem. usually the windows are the first to be affected. Other systems will follow...prepare for odd behavior.

 

This happened several years ago on my coupe. It started out simple enough and all I would have to do is to reset them as instructed in the owners manual. This is where I can trace the beginning of the lose of energy due to corrosion of the positive battery cable. After the windows started acting up, I would get sessions of no start issues. And not starting after the cars was hot. Even not cranking at all until cooling down. And on a few occasions when I had to call AAA for a jump for what I thought was a dead battery the battery was tested and showed everything fine. I had both cables + - replaced buy the dealer because I had no way of diagnosing this issue. But once I explained these symtoms to the tech he knew exactly what to fix. He said that there are instances where the positive cables get corroded internally and have to be replaced. You might ask around to see if there is a way to test this cable but maybe one of the master tech's will be able to help you.

 

THANK YOU. This reset saved tons of annoyance on my 97 XK8. Cheers

 

Recently replaced microswitch in passenger door actuator and since then I'm plagued with the problem of the dreaded" door open syndrome". Disconnected negative cable several times and waited .... to no avail problem still exists....replacing microswitch again didn't help either...any suggestions....

 

A read the faq and do a search first is probably a better advice!
It is even written in the manual supplied with your car.

 

Have you reset your windows? See post #2 of this thread.

Also make sure your battery is fully charged. Working on the door for a few hours will drain the battery and lead to the is problem. Charge the battery then reset the windows.

 

I just experienced this problem, but if I push the door handle back just a tad all works fine.

 

Just a quick "Thank you". Had some work done on the car and they disconnected the battery. Post repairs, the widows were not functioning properly. They just kept going down when you pulled the door latch. All better now.
Cheers
Will

 

I posted this earlier today and it has me thinking that my gut feeling it is the battery and perhaps alternator is right. The window resetting was the start of the problems. the voltage gauge in the dash shows just upwards of center (actually to the right) so I was hoping the battery is good and the alternator too.

Posted earlier today:
I was dawdling along at 60MPH and put my foot down (gently) to pass a slowpoke. The car lurched, for a split second the rear wheels locked (guessing when the motor cutout) and the car just coasted to a halt. I could restart it but it immediately died. I waited 5-10 mins and it restarted and ran fine the rest of 20 miles home. I tried time and time again to get it to cutout in the same manner by running at 60MPH and accelerating, but no could do.

A little history prior to this event is I haven’t used it for several months, but this was the return journey home so I had clocked about 60 miles that day. On previous outings the steering wheel positioning has not gone to the memorized setting until perhaps 10 mins into my journey. It’s a little disorientating when your steering wheel suddenly comes towards you unexpected. The windows have to be reset about once a month, then the roof wouldn’t open unless I increased the revs – i.e. more voltage output.

It has an after-market turbo-fan in the air intake pipe after the mass air flow sensor. It kicks in about mid throttle and it pulls a good few amps.

I have ordered an OBDII Bluetooth scanner to check my codes, which I should have this weekend.

My gut instinct is a volt/current problem affecting the car computer. Perhaps both battery and alternator.

Accurate, knowledgeable help greatly appreciated.