Sid,


Before poking at the pump & filter, verify that there is power on that wire. A lot of things were disturbed while trouble-shooting the original problem. Might be you just need to put something back in place.


You're due for some good luck!

 

I noticed that if there was a removeable access door or panel above the top of the fuel tank where the back window is, above of where the blue circle top of the pump is seen outside the tank, that maybe it would be possible to create access to change the pump without removing the fuel tank.

It looks like it may be possible to cut a square of the metal panel located above the tank in front of the back window, then by going to the back seat and facing towards the back window, work to remove the fuel pump by raising it from above through the cut out opening.

All the outer pump connections, 3 hoses and electrical can be removed via the trunk access.

Then once finished, simply put a slightly larger square metal plate where the original cut out came from by using nuts and screws.

Has anyone heard of this being done?

Thank you,
Sid

 

Hi Dennis07, thanks for your response and the well wishes too, much appreciated.

I will check that Brown yellow striped wire with another person tomorrow, as Paul was kind to confirm is required.

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Yes, I did mine recently. Here is the original link:


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...access-118362/

 

Hi RJ237, and thanks for the response and link, much appreciated.

Can this be done with the top down or does the convertible top cover that area when open? I don't remember.

I was thinking to just use a metal saw blade or jigsaw to cut a rectangle instead of a circle, a rectangle offering more elbow room to work due to it being a little tight fitting above the back seat.
I may even attach hinges to the cut out rectangle piece and a latch so it can open and close like a door while at the same time restoring some of the strength integrity of the shelf.

So did you cut a circle like in the pics at the link page or something else and how did you proceed with the task?

Is that metal really hard to cut?
Not sure if I can just cut it by hand with a blade or go electrical, there is no electrical power outlet available where my car is sitting.

How did it work out for you after the shelf mod,
any difficulties,
were you able to change the pump easilly,
how did you proceed to change the pump, if you don't mind my asking?

I know, thats quite a few questions but I would appreciate as much experienced info, from someone who has actually gone through it all, as possible.

Thanks alot, much appreciated
Sid

 

You can't use a jig saw, only about 1/2" clearance. I stuffed apiece of plywood on top of the tank when I drilled a pilot hole to get my nibbler started, but the nibbler couldn't handle the thicker material where it doubles, so I had to use a power shear. A hand shear can hardly touch it. The large dia. hole saw makes a lot of sense. Without power, I don't think you can do it.

Removing the pump was not a problem. There is a 8mm hex screw that holds the pump in, not easy to see, and you don't want to have more than a couple of gallons of fuel in the tank. You can remove it with a hand pump once the cover is off.

 

Hi everyone, so now the remaining question is which after market pump/kit would be adequate, reliable and affordable?

I have seen pumps/kits on Ebay from $11 to way up more...

Search results page
Link: 1999 jaguar xk8 fuel pump kit | eBay

this one sold over 100 units and carries a lifetime warranty
Link: Brand New Replacement in Tank Fuel Pump Install Kit | eBay

and then there is URO PARTS OE# C2N3866 pump only, with a 2 years warranty
Link: New Jaguar XJ XK VDP XJ8 XJR XK8 XKR Electric Fuel Pump URO Parts OE C2N3866 | eBay

that's what I found so far.

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

This is one of the jobs that most of us only want to do once. I bought a Denso kit from Rockauto, not what I consider a place to go cheap when a quality unit is under $100.

 

Read an appropriate quote a couple days ago but can't remember where.

"Why is there always money to do it right the second time?"

 

Does the old pump have to be removed first, can you not cut into the fuel line & inserert the new pump somewhere appropriate? 😁

 

Isn't the most appropriate place exactly where the old one is now?

 

The pump is submerged in the tank, not an external in-line installation.

 

there must be a fuel line from the rear mounted tank to the front mounted engine

 

Hi Dennis, well I was able to check that wire again, and it does light up the tester for a few seconds then turns off, which is what was said to be normal operation.

I guess its now on to changing the pump.

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Hi JonWat, I was thinking the same at first but it can't be done with this car due to it having an internal pump which would inoperably block the fuel from getting to the line to begin with.

You can do that with the older cars because they have a mechanical pump at the engine, so the external addition of an electrical is what I used to do to maintain a stable pressure under different temperatures and other related conditions.

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Seems so. Sorry. I was hoping for an easy fix. You're due for one!

 

Hi everyone, its been about a month now and the following is what has happenned...

after getting the new key and programming it into the computer the car didn't start because of the fuel pump, so i got the fuel pump and a strainer, I cut a rectangle above the tank and installed the new pump and strainer, then I went to try it and the car finally started right up.

I drove it for 2 days no problems, a few lights on the dash screen the first time but they all went away, then on day 2 I started noticing that starting was a little weak and that it took a couple of tries on the ignition for it to start, then subsequent to that I parked the car at the playground where I brought my kids to play, and I didn't even set the alarm just incase because it was a Sunday, so when it was time to leave the car didn't start, so I asked someone to jump it, did so very carefully and it started. After that i decided to drive it to the highway to drive faster and charge the battery so I did that at 65mph for about 1/2 hour then went home, parked it, shut it off, tried to restart it, it didn't start.
The next day i installed a brand new battery, all went well for a couple of days except for having to try the igniton a couple of time for it to take, then later it started acting up, i had to turn the ignition on many more times before the starter would turn, so the next day i went to the local Jag dealer and asked if it may be the new key they had sold me because I had noticed it was not exactly like the original, the line in the middle that goes from one end of the stem to the other was not as wide and prominent as on the original, on the new key it was very narrow on one side and thin on the other side, so they said it didn't matter and that as long as it turns and doesn't bind that the key is fine. They tried to start it with that new key and then tried with the original that wasn't programmed into the car but the car didn't start.
They then said I should have the car checked or leave, the leave part was because i insisted they make me a new key so I can get that possibility out of the equation, but they wouldn't make me a new one, so I tried to leave but the car would now not start no matter how many times I tried with the new key they sold me, so i reluctantly agreed to have them check the car, i had no other choice other than towing it home, so I agreed to the 160.00 check up.

3 hours later they came back to me with the result being that I need a new BCM/BPM and that they can get me a used one and installed etc for about 970.00 tax included and waiving the 160.00 check up fee, so I agreed hoping that would put an end to this never ending story.

a few days later they called me to tell the car is ready and BOTH keys were programmed into the car and they both work! So I guess i didn't really need the new key as the other Jag repair shop said.

I went to pick up and pay, i then went to the car and it started up right away, i tried a few times to shut it off and restart and it worked every time, that was yesterday, and it worked fine, and I even noticed that my vsor mirror now lit up again and that my fog light switch now worked again as well.
But, today it started again, twice it required 2-3 attempts for it to start, and then I went home but on the way it gave a message on the screen saying "Restricted Performance Mode", I let it idle then the message went away, so I went home.

Then I had to go out again so I tried with the original key and it starter right up, so I drove away and I stopped for my wife to buy something and i dared not stop the car, i just let it idle while I waited for her. Then half an hour into the trip, I now got the message on the screen saying "Restricted Performance Mode", i let it idle for awhile and then the message went away again.

Needless to say, i am afraid to shut off the car when i go out so I just let it run while the wife did her shopping, and now I am afraid to go out with it all together, but i don't have a choice because my family van tie rod ends are finnished and need to be replaced, I found that out when i went with my kid to purchase and install new tires the day after I installed the new fuel pump on the Jag, and during all of this I was sick from a bug from school my kid stuck me with.

So now 1 new key, 1 new battery, 1 new fuel pump, and 1 used BCM later, I am still not able to drive this car with peace of mind. I am thinking about trying to drive it and hoping the issues will just go away, that maybe the BCM is maybe adjusting, but I am terrified every time i go out, the kids are with me and until I fix the van i have no choice.

As i explained at the beginning of this thread, prior to me parking the car for too long and the battery drained, the only thing that was wrong was the fog light switch had suddenly stopped working, other than that everything was fine and I occasionally enjoyed the car. Now its just terrifying.

Thank you
Sid

 

Greetings from the French Alps:

It's been a long time since I posted because absolutely nothing has gone wrong with my XKR since I bought it 11 years ago.

That said the other day I noticed I had low tires after sitting since last year and used a cigarette lighter air compressor to fill all four of the tires but managed to run the battery flat in the process. No worries I thought just plug in the battery charger again that the car always has on when not driven. So some hours later the charger is showing a full charge. But the car won't start. Won't even crank over.

This was odd because just before I used the air compressor I started it without any problems. Back on the charger overnight, same result, won't turn over. Even though all of the interior, trunk/boot dash lights etc all come on. Check of the critical fuses shows no breaks. (Five Fuse Boxes!!!)

I thought it might have been a mistake to try and start the car with the charger still on causing an electronic spike in the car electrical components. Some posters suggested it could be a key issue, tried the other key, no joy. (Oddly they are both green. One person here said that means they are Valet keys...if so I never had the ignition key.)

At this point I want to thank all of the posters here even though it was a long read.

I was lucky.

Posters suggested checking the battery charge with a meter. Mine was showing 13.5 volts, as I had the charger on it right before the test.

One poster mentioned that batteries that go completely flat may build up a resistance on the internal battery diodes that even a good charge will not overcome enough to start the car. This reminded me of the nature of electricity when you have a flat battery you need another battery to start the charging transfer or you can charge it forever without result. Which is what happened to mine.

Other posters suggested using a jump battery and or car but were clear that the donor car should not be running, to protect the electronics of both vehicles. Several posters made it clear that the only correct way to jump start XKR's was to use a negative ground on the XKR but NOT on the negative battery terminal of the XKR. Generous posters even included the manual pages about how to use the spare wheel lock down post for the negative ground. Of course it is in my manual along with all of the numerous fuse box lists.

Lots of posts about the correct order of connection but one stands out about connecting the XKR first and the donor car last to minimize even further the chance of igniting battery fumes in the XKR. This is the reason given for not using the negative battery post in the XKR, but also as another poster pointed out to bypass a potentially dead battery that will draw too much current to start the car.

So despite thinking it was odd that the car started fine first but not after the battery recharge I thought as others here suggested it was best to start with the simplest application of Occam's Razor. Especially after reading all of the problems the original poster had over the course of three plus months.

Hooked up the trusty '98 Volvo V70R, engine off, and Volia!
As the folks around here like to say.
The XKR started right away.

Let it run for 20 minutes and disconnected the jump cables in the correct negative first order. Restarted weakly so took it for a 30 minute high speed drive
and put it nose into the garage in case I have to jump it again...so great news!
At most I need a new battery.
Not the nightmare the poor fellow who started this post had.
If I'm luckier still this battery may continue to serve.

Update car started fine off of the old battery 48 hours later. Whew.

So a big thanks to all of the usual expert suspects on this forum and apologies for not naming them all but I'm not going to reread all of these.

By way of thanks allow me to post here an idea that one of the moderators can put in the correct thread on convertible green showers from the hydraulic lines leaking under pressure.

When I first got my XKR convertible I noticed in the specs somewhere that there is a 30-40% pressure increase in the system when raising the top/hood between when the car was running versus when the engine is off and just using the battery .

My successful solution these past 11 years is to always raise the top with the engine off.
I give a little assist by pulling on the center handle though it is not really needed it just takes a bit longer.
There is not much pressure needed to lower the top so it doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.

No offense to the folks who came up with the low pressure cut out switch.

No showers.

Good luck to all who enjoy these wonderful but sometimes maddeningly complex machines.