Link: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1999.pdf , Thanks Alot Gus!

Hi again, page 32 is very interesting, by back tracking from the starter and its relay we can see that all leads back to the specific Key Transponder Module that is required to give the "Okay To Start" signal to the ECM which gives the OK for everything to begin the engine start process. The ECM controls the fuel pump and ignition, and BPM controls the engine cranking, but the only signal that the BCM input seems to be seeking to allow the cranking to begin is one from the Ignition switch(III) and the only security acknowledgement the BCM is seeking are non glass breakage and tranny in park or neutral okays. So does that mean that the possible culprit may be Ignition switch(III) ?

If so then where is Ignition switch(III)?

If not, what am I missing?

I am also wondering about all the "Serial and Encoded Communications" and that this diagram doesn't explain how the security module and transponders tie into all of it

Thank you,
Sid

 

Sid, I know you have tried all kinds of stuff and it's has to be fluctuating you, hell, it's fluctuating me.
Being from the old school, I would have to try turning the key on to II position and running a cable from the positive side of the battery to the starter and see if it cranks. Just 12V's to the solenoid might do it, how much worse can it be?
I think position III would be the start portion of the switch, not sure.


Wayne

 

Hi Wayne, I agree it is, and thats the way car makers want it, they learned their lesson from the pre 80s cars, too many home mechanics.

Thank you,
Sid

 

So if I understand this probability of events properly...

The KTM - Key Transponder Module - is where the key code is memorized

somehow the KTM lost the key code from its' memory

when I tried to start the car, the exciter ring sends my keys' code to the KTM

the KTM no longer recognized my keys' code

so then what, the KTM signaled to the Security Module to trigger immobilization?

Do I understand this correctly or can someone please explain?

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Hello everyone, it took a while but I was able to locate the only alternative to the dealer option.

I found a repair shop that has the WDS software and he was willing to reprogram for only fifty bucks, but only after new years, so I waited and then I towed the car there, he hooked it up to the WDS, tried to reprogram the key to the module or ktm, the software came back with key "Mismatch", so he said in his opinion it means that the key chip/pellet is bad or something to that effect and that I should buy a new key, so I went to the Jaguar dealership parts dept where they quoted me that with a 20% discount the key would cost me $162.xx + 10 cut fee, so I told them that a few weeks ago I was quoted 80.00 + 157 reprogram and I only now need the key, they replied no way, that 80 would be below their cost, so I thought BULLOCKS and then explained to him the 80.00 quote was reitterated to me on multiple calls of inquiry during the week I called them, and that other people in other states said they paid around 80 when posting in Jag blogs online, the parts guy said no way 162.00 or no sale, so I told them that was nuts, 162.00 for 1 key and no programming and that I would get back to them.

So I went to the service dept and asked if they can test my key without the car, that I was told I needed and new key and wanted to make sure before I spend 162.00 for just a key, so the agent said i need a car there too, so I asked if he can ask a tech if a WDS software result of "Mismatch" means I need a new key, if its even possible for a key to go bad, he said he would try, he went then came back saying the key seems to still have chip in it, while pointing to a dot looking spot on top the key plastic, and that the car really needed to be there to know for sure.

So I went outside to the parking lot and started calling many locksmiths but they said they either couldn't provide and cut a key or the ones that said they could would provide an after market key for around 100.00 or more,
so I called the repair guy and asked if he was certain this was the correct diagnosis because I really didn't need a $162.00 spare key and that I can live with only one, so he replied he guarantees nothing and is only going on what the software says, so I asked if maybe the exciter ring may be something to try before commiting to the much higher costing key, so he replied he never in his 35 years of working with Jags ever had to change an exciter ring and that I had to hurry back because he needed the space my Jag was at, so I went into the dealership and paid the $172.00 FOR ONE CAR KEY and cut.

So I found an alternative to the dealer for one thing, the programming, but I still ended up there and they still managed to WHACK ME 172.00 for just one key.


This car is like scoring a sweet beautiful girl named XK8 but then finding out she's just a pimp named Jaguars' gold digger wh...


So I then hurried back to the shop, handed the new key to him, he did the reprogramming process, got in the car, turned the key, and now the starter turned!!!

So I just couldn't control myself and gave him a big hug...

BUT, also now the car didn't start and run, what the heck I thought???
All this from a battery drain and/or bad key.

So he started checking around, found nothing wrong, he then hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and cranked the engine, no pressure, zero pressure, so he said I wasn't going to like what he was about to tell me, but i already understood the meaning of zero pressure and the question remained about whether the car is immobilized, had a bad pump or relay

So the situation was that the engine cranked but there was no fuel leaving the gas tank.

He insisted it wasn't immobilized, tested the pump relay on a relay tester, tried to jump the connections to bypass the relay and pointed to the dimming trunk light while stating to notice that this meant the pump was jammed or something, he blamed the fuel as a possibility, saying the new fuels are mixed and that this over time might have gunk jammed the pump.

So after going back and forth he came back with a quote to replace the pump, the quote was $700, so I asked for the break down of the quote, he said six hours at 115/hr plus the pump, so I asked if he can give me a break on his hourly rate, to reduce it a bit, he flat out refused and began a speech to justify his rate, but the week before he told me his rate was 1/3 of the dealers, so i told him that and specified that would be 60/hr at most, so he replied the same way as the dealer, that he wouldn't budge.

So I decided that towing the car home and rethinking my options would be best, so we pushed the car out after I called and ordered the tow.

I got the car home, removed the battery to bring it in for a good charging.

Today I reconnected the battery while hoping removing it didn't screw up the code again, I went to the driver side fuse box, pressed the innertia switch, turned the key, the car cranked, but still no fuel pumping.

Thats the latest news, sorry it took so long but I went as quickly as I could guys.

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

This link will show you a way to check that the power to the pump. You have 2 fuses and realy that controls it.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

This link will show you the process on replacing the pump

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Hope this helps!

 

Oh my god. Just read this whole thread and im pleased you got it turning over after alot of messing around. Im sure someone said get a new key and reprogrammed on like page 2

now it turns over but wont start. How annoying!!!!!

I hope you get it running SOON

 

Hi Gus, and thanks for the response...

The page at the first link says :
"The lack of pressure could be caused by a clogged filter"

Is there a safe for Jaguar product I can add to the tank/fuel to possibly remedy/disolve the clogging of the filter?

It also says the fuses to check are #7 a 20amp and #3 a 5amp, are they both in the trunk fuse box, same for 1999 and 2000 XK8?

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Yes a clogged filter could be the problem and the only way to know is to R&R the filter. It is located under the car just forward of the left rear tire between the frame.

The fuses are in the trunk the same as my 99 along with the relay.

 

Hi Gus, thanks for the quick response, very much appreciated.

The filter:
I thought the explanation was refering to the internal pump filter, are you sure they meant the inline filter?


The fuses:
I just went to check the fuses, I didn't know which was #7 20amp or #3 5amp, so I just tested all the 20amp, 5amp fuses, and one 25amp fuse, all in the trunk fuse box, all tested good.

The pump relay:
I also swapped the the pump relay with another exact same one.

The Brown Yellow wire:
At this point there is one test not passed though;
as instructed in the "Voltage Test to Fuel Pump" page, I disconnected the the plug at top right of the fuel tank and located its "Brown Yellow" wire in the connector, the connector part coming from the right side not the one leading to the pump, I tried to test the brown yellow wire with a test light but got NO power out of it, I tried with ignition in all positions except crank, still no power.

The "Voltage Test to Fuel Pump" page says to replace pump if power is present, but doesn't explain the next step if there is no power.


Thanks alot,
Sid

 

I'll put money on the pump rather than the filter.

 

+++1. It is incredibly common for the fuel pump to fail on XK8s of this age when they have not been run for a few weeks.

 

Hi WhiteXKR, thanks for your response, very much appreciated.

So what happens over the non-usage period that causes the pump to commonly fail?

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

I have never analyzed it, so I cannot answer with certainty. We do see it over and over here though.

One thing that is known, however, is that it is wise not to run below about a quarter tank, because the gasoline cools the pump and when it gets too hot it will have a reduced life.

 

The Pump will be powered for only 1 second when switching the key to "Run". This is to Prime the Fuel Rail with pressurized Fuel.

The Pump will be receive continuous power with the key in the Cranking Position.

Only after the Engine Starts, will the Pump receive continuous Power in the "Run" position.

 

Hi Norri, thanks for the response, much appreciated.

If gunk is whats affecting the pump, is there a safe for Jaguar/if required additive I can add to the tank/fuel to possibly remedy the pump issue?

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Hello Paul, thanks alot for your response, very appreciated.

So to test the Brown Yellow striped wire, located at the top right of the fuel tank, it will require one person at ignition and another to check if the test light lights up when either cranking or switching to run?

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Correct!

 

+1

 

If gunk may be what is affecting the pump, is it safe to use a fuel system cleaner additive to the fuel or into the fuel tank, and then let it sit for awhile to possibly remedy the pump issue?

and if yes, then how much fuel would be required in the tank for the additive to be able to reach the fuel pump and its filter?

and will the additive even get into the pump if the pump doesnt work to aspirate the additive?

Thanks alot,
Sid