Confirmed bad "ready to latch" micro switch. When that circuit is jumped, it allows the latch to operate and windows to come up. Once that circuit is reopened, windows immediately drop down. Anybody know where I can find a replacement micro switch?

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Water-Proof-Switch-Attached-Roller/dp/B00LUCYAMG/ref=pd_day0_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LUCYAMG &pd_rd_r=RVNJYVRS6JB6PV77WJ2T&pd_rd_w=z5Xya&pd_rd_ wg=guy8T&psc=1&refRID=RVNJYVRS6JB6PV77WJ2T

Any thoughts on this as a viable replacement? I can fab up a bracket.

 

Where is this microswitch located? Near the latch or by the pump?

 

It's in the header to the right of the latch. There's another micro switch to the left of the latch that looks like it signals that the latch is fully down. Different design though.

 

Another option - waterproof convertible top limit switch from VW Beetle. Bracket is on the wrong side but I can drill and tap the assembly to mount it properly. No part numbers or other markings on the switch..

https://www.vwpartswarehouse.com/p/V...wd=&origin=pla

 

Give Mouser a try.

Link http://www.mouser.com/All-Manufactur...switch&FS=True

 

Peeked at mouser before but soooo many options. Will have to spend some more time on it.

 

Send them an email or call them.

 

You and I are thinking the same exact way. Was looking at their contact us options yesterday but no way to attach a file. Planed to ring them today so I can send a pic.

 

the microswitches i was reffering to are in the lift rams themselves. That microswitch is for latched or not latch signal. Not the ones that signal for the latch to pull down and latch the top. To test you can ground them and see if the completed circuit pulls the top down, pass that a bad solenoid on top of the pump would be next to check

 

Brutal - I understand. The ram micro switches are good. Looking at the circuit, both the upper ram switch and the "latch ready to close" switch need to be closed for the solenoid to direct fluid to the latch. The latch ready to close switch is closed when the striker hits the latch. Mine is physically bent and impedance doesn't change when manipulated manually. I jumped the two wires going to that switch closing the circuit and properly latching the top. If I replace that switch, my top should operate properly.

 

I hope for your sake I am wrong about this, but even with the electrics squared away, the apparent leakage of air into you system may well cause trouble with the latch. Those no-o-ring fittings ...

If I read it right, you've gotten the latch to close by using a jumper. But this might not mimic the conditions in the hoses that will exist in practice. Long story short, the pump reverses direction when things progress from raising the top to closing the latch. "Return" hoses become "supply" hoses and vice versa at that time. If air was pulled into what was a "return" hose ...

Anyway, please let us know how this part of the story plays out.

 

Absolutely will do. Once I sort out the controls/signaling, I'll have those two hose ends refitted. Assuming that works out, my $138 experiment will essentially be a success... Too many variables/issues initially to qualify it as such right now.

 

Didn't find a good alternative on mouser so I ordered the Amazon switch. Coming in today so hopefully the admiral will let me get back in the shop tonight to install and optest...

 

Installed new switch and good to go! Its a little larger than the original switch and with the roller on it, it barely wanted to close the circuit when the latch was pushed down. Had to bend the lever a little to get it right. Also built a bracket out of aluminum to make it fit in the same spot as the original switch. All set! Thanks to everyone for your help.

 

You know..............

 

Thought I didn't have any good pics but turns out They aren't bad.

​​​​​​Real star of the thread though is the cheap yet functional hoses.

 

Nice job of troubleshooting cdre. Those new Parker hoses look good on the hydraulics side.

Good luck with it going forward!

Jim