Friends, This is probably obvious, but I better ask for help - it just doesn't make sense to me. I have a replacement passenger window, have removed the door pannel and am ready to install the window. Here's the issue: The end of the brackets on the regulator, slide into the window channel (the channel on the bottom of the window). Since the previous window was broken, it was easy to take the old channel out. The bracket's ends extend left and right about 12 inches from a center point. Here's what gets me, the window's channel (along the bottom edge) extends 15 inches from that same center point. Of course these 12 or 15 inch notes are estimates to make a point - that there doesn't seem to be any room to attach (slide on) the ends of the brackets. It appears that one connects the regulator's brakets to the bottom of the window channel by sliding them in from either end. As mentioned there doesn't look like there is anywhere near enough free play to do so. If this is a dumb question and I'll find there is more than enough room when the window is slid down, excuse me. I hope you understand I'm anxious to get this finished and just trying to plan for tonight's work. Thanks for your advice.

As I'm writting this it just hit me - is that why they tell you to loosen the rear guide before installing the window - giving enough play?

John

 

YES - disconnecting the rear guide at the bottom then gives the room to manoeuvre.

The Parts Catalogue diagrams are often more helpful than the ones in JTIS.




Be very careful with the 'X' frame (arrowed in red) - it can be a finger slicer if you don't disconnect the battery!

Graham

 

that was great, thank you!

 

OK Good news, got the window in. For the record (not in any instructions) the plastic piece that the regulator slides along the bottom channel of the window comes off the X brace. When I posted my previous question I thought it slid on and off or more properly into and out of the channel to remove / install the window (wrong). Once you remove the pin, it can be (with a bit of force) popped off. That alows you to fit it on the replacement window outsid the door.

Now I am faced with the problem that caused my window to break in the first place, it goes up ****-eyed. The front of the window seems to get bogged down (yes the screwed in front retainer bracket is in place). I am at a loss. I can't imagine the X brace transmits differnt forces (more to rear than front). Might anyone have any ideas where to look? I'll let this sit for an hour before I decide to take apart the driver's door to compare one that works propertly. Thanks - John

 

Hi John,
Hopefully the attached will help you sort it out.

 

Not to highjack this thread but I have a related problem with the trailing edge of my driver side window on my 2003 XKR Convertible. The trailing edge seems to have about an inch of slop in it such that it will impact the rear quarter glass on closure if I do not help it up with my hand before closing the door. The trailing edge moves a good inch or so vertically by hand while the front leading edge remains firm. Looking at the mechanism I would hate to experiment making matters worse. Is this just an adjustment procedure as outlined here or do I have a different issue? The car only has 36,000 miles so hoping components are not worn out. I should note that I found "anti rattle buffer part #12" in the bottom of the door and not quite sure where it should attach per GGG's diagram.


Any help is appreciated!

 

Hi.
I had the same problem, the window going up ****-eyed and becoming stuck. It turned out to be the fore-aft tilt adjusting nut having worked lose. This nut is described in step number 20 in the previous instructions. Adjusting and tightening this also took care of the gap between the door window and the rear quarter window giving a lot of wind noise.

 

Wow, I"m not sure how to say thank you deeply enough. It worked!!! thank you for the diagrams. It turns out this whole incident was caused by one loose bolt, let me explain for future reference in case someone encounters this themselves:

Window goes up cockeyed. In other words the rear edge of the window goes up normally, the front edge looks like it is getting stuck. STOP DO NOT try to muscle through this or use your hands to get this back on track - You CAN break the window,I did.

1) Lower the window.
2) Take the door pannel off. (See instructions earlier in this thread)
3) Modifications to the instructions to help you out:

I used a needle nose pliers to remove the plug behind the door handle. Twist insead of leveraging to pop it out.
When you get to the part about removing the window switch; The rectangular piece of leather covered cardboard, vertical underneath the switch inside the arm rest, is pried back to remove it. While the instructions mention a plastic hook, it is just pressure fitted, with one body pannel plug to hold it in place. Get a large flat blade screw driver behind it up top and pry it backwards without injuring the walnut switch housing.

Important: There are two screws in there, one bronze, one black (the instructions only indicate one).

There is no need to remove speaker cover - it just screws into the door pannel, not the door itself.

Follow the numerical sequence to pry the pannel off the door. What I mean is the tolerance is real tight, get a large screwdriver underneath section 1, make room to get your fingers in, and start to pull in short bursts.

Door removed.

You will have to remove the black moisture barrier. Go slow and it is reusable. Remove the 2 bolts securing the armrest support bracket. You would damage the barrier beyond repair if you were to pull it out. Note the orientation, don't put it back on upside down later.

Speaker - The speaker bracket/spacer is marked with the word "Top" for reinstallation. (without that you would have trouble figuring out which orientation is correct)

Once that is off, see the pdf for "adjusting" the window. Note that there is a bronze adjustmet nut in the upper right quadrant of the door pannel. If you look closely, you will quikly see that this nut is connected to a bolt that secures a horizontal channel that runs across the entire door right to left just above the window regulator. This bolt is loose, allowing the entire zenith of the windows travel to change causing your problem. Tighen thie bolt - problem fixed.

To re-install the moisture barrier - purchase a can of Lock Tight high tack spray adhesive.

For those who have to remove/install the window, some clarifications to the instructions that will save you plenty of time:

You do not have to remove the clear plastic 2nd moisture barrier, just loosen it at the bottom for access.

The rubber barriers (front and back - the window protrudes between them) at the top of the window's channel are just press fitted on. No tools needed, just pull them off slowly and carefully.

Note that both the front and rear brackets have adjustment screws at the bottom. You will not likely have to change this, but just in case, take a caliper and measure the distance between the front edge of the door and the front edge of the channel.

The instructions tell you to move the rear channel bracket away from window travel. You can lay it along the bottom of the door pannel, but if I were to do it again, I would leave it vertical and move it as far back in the door as possible. It is real hard to position the entire bracket vertical if you have it laying on the bottom once you get a window back in.

Let me explain the bottom channel of the window: The nylon inserts are attached to the X brace in the following manner. The pins secure the x brace to the insert. Remove the pin, easier than it looks, then pry the X brace from the nylon (it pops in and out by design they do not tell you that in the instructions). This will take more effort than you think but it works (no one likes a loud "Pop" when working on a glass window. It might stop you heart for a second but that's how it works.

To reinstall a window, put the nylone inserts back in the window's channel outside the vehicle. Lubricate this channel. Spoke to Jaguar mechanics - there is no specific lube, they just use what ever is handy. Insert the pins, release tab facing outwards. If you were to study the pin/insert you would realize that there is room for the pin to expand when you re-pop the x brace back in. After that they will effectively secure the X brace to the insert.

Before you put the window in, motor the x brace to the point where the part you have to insert in the nylon piece will be acessible through the opening in the door provided. This allows you to position the nylon insert directly in front of the X brace, and with ingnition off, put your hand in below the window to squeeze the back of the window channel and X brace together for a proper connection. As mentioned earlier, it takes a bit of force, that's why I would plan the position better the next time I did this.

When you read about the 9mm clearance, set the rear clearance from the outside of the window to the inside of the door's metal before you reinstall your rubber.

Beyond that the instructions are clear, I hope this saves you some time.

John

 

Glad to be of assistance and the window is now working correctly.

 

Thanks for your write up. I have pretty much the same problem. What has happened, is the rear arm of the regulator has popped out of the slide and is pretty bent. This in turn let the window drop completely down. Next thing to do is see if the regulator arm can be straightened, popped back into the slide and the U-Clip reinstalled at the slide. Then I need to adjust it as you mention in your write up. My window was also lagging at the rear when going up. I do see that at sometime prior to my buying the vehicle, there was some repair work done. The screws/bolts that hold the window motor regulator in, have obviously been moved from factory position and were also a little loose.

Good write up, I should be able to get through this without to much trouble. I just hope that the bent arm can be straightened. If not, to EBay I go. I won't know until I pull the whole regulator out and look at it.

Anyway, thanks for your write up, your views and your tricks. Should be pretty much straight forward...

Bill M.

 

Let us know how you do, good luck BillM. John

 

great write up,
I would like to add for future readers,
1. "polish" the 4 bearing surfaces on the new white retainers on 120 grit, they were to tight to glide in the track smoothly until i did this, no need to have any binding..
2. If the retaining clip pops off while you are installing, use a 8 mm long socket to push the clip back on, new clips are different design than the old ones, i decided to reuse the old ones as I like the old design, I think its more secure than the new ones.
3. I too found #12 in the bottom of the door.
4. use blue loctite the regulator mounting hardware, 4 bolts one nut/stud.

total time, research the forum 2 hours, order the parts on line, 1 hour, do the job start to finish 2 hours total work time = 5 hours,
thanks again

 

@JagPilot Did you ever figure out where the "Anti-rattle buffer" went. I also found it at the bottom of the door cavity and would like to know where it goes.

 

There's no mention of the Anti-rattle buffer in the door glass removal/refitting procedure in JTIS and I no longer have an XK8 to check. However, it must be intended to prevent metal-to-metal contact or minimise vibration of the regulator assembly when driving.

If yours was also lying loose in the door cavity and you had no rattles, it can't be an essential fitment.

Graham

 

No, I no longer have the car but believe this was allowing my rear portion of the driver window to droop. I believe it attaches to the rear slider portion of the window with the dome side facing out.. apparently a resistance fit so may need to be closed a bit (gently) with pliers or a vice first.

 

Hi, the window on my 1997 xk8 has been causing problems over the last few months and I have now decided to replace the regulator complete. I have removed the door card but don't know how ro get the regulator out of the door. The window is down! How can I release the glass form the mechanism without breakage? I am getting quite frustrated as the more I look at it, the more confusing it looks!!!! Does the inner door panel separate from the door in some way? I hope someone can point me in the right direction.
Jagmanfr

 

Have a look here.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ap-out-156573/