Hello I am new to the forum but thought I would explain my problem in hopes of getting some good advice from you guys.


So here's my problem. I bought my friends 1999 XK8 IN 2011 and the Jag is beautiful and ran great for 6 months with no problems. Then I blew the engine up my own fault running her at 120 miles per hour with no oil due to a leak. Will to save money my friend said he new a great mechanic and he would rebuild the motor for only $4,500 dollars. That was over 2 years ago. My Jag has never recovered and has not run since. I found a new mechanic local in Costa Mesa, CA to try an fix it he has had the Jag off and on for the past 2 years and I have literally driven it maybe 2000 miles. I have replaced so many parts and have spent at least $8,000 in repairs including the rebuilt engine and the mechanic split to Mexico. The Jag kept on getting displaying Restricted Performance, Engine Light etc... ever since. Every time my new mechanic would check the codes we would replace the faulty part. The Throttle Body, then all kinds of sensors etc... The restricted Performance finally went away after he replaced the entire wiring harness because it was spliced together by previous mechanic. Now for the past 6 months or so the check engine light keeps going on and whatever code shows up we fix it. Then the code showed bad O2 sensors so replaced the 2 upstream ones. Then the light came on again a day later. Oh and yes we already replaced the VVT Solenoid too. The code shows I believe P1396? The VVT Solenoid again and since I bought it used I suppose it could have been bad. Will instead of replace it we decided to change the oil with a thicker viscosity oil 20/50 with an additive as well because I've read on this post before that could be the problem sending these signals to the engine. So just picked my Jag and all lights are off for now but I'm am sure they will go back on tomorrow like they have for the past 2 years. Now the car runs great and had for past 3 months but we can't keep the engine light off. I can't smog it till fixed and tags are expired and "Yes" I have tried to sell this mess the entire time but being honest like I am I explain to people all the problems and all the money and parts been replaced but still scares people off and I just didn't want to lose so much money thinking one day it will run good again.


I am so frustrated and in the hole and I don't blame my current mechanic because Jags are the only cars he works on but I handed him a mess he extremely slow at times but always honest and fair on price, he even lets me buy my own parts now saving me as much as he can. I will post over the week-end the status and am open for any advice, help offers to buy anything "PLEASE HELP"


I am definitely going to sell her but I need smog and tags, then I am even willing to take it to the auction but will lose over ?12000 invested and only get maybe 3,000 or 4,000 grand. Either way thanks for listening I've been ready this forum for two years and you guys know Jaguars and I believe still maybe 10% chance the Jag will be fixed, maybe I would keep it then, but my wife wants it gone now!!!!!!!!


Thanks,
David Autry

 

David,

If I'm summarising this correctly:

1. it's the original engine rebuilt (not a replacement)
2. since the rebuilt it's had a load of parts installed by two different mechanics
3. it starts/runs OK but the MIL comes on

You've got to troubleshoot this systematically.

If the MIL does come back on again as you are expecting, get the codes read and post them back here. The actual codes and not what your mechanic gives as a description.

The guys here will then have better idea of what is going on with the vehicle and be able to offer advice on the possible causes of the MIL.

Graham

 

If its a 1999, don't invest (read: waste) any more $$$ on temporary fixes. Consider installing a GM motor and trany.

 

Has the battery been properly load tested?

As far as the VVT's are concerned - 20W50 oil may exasperate any issues you may be having. Contrary to opinion - you should go with a thinner viscosity oil like 5W30 and subbing 1 qt with trans fluid.

Good Luck.

 

Thank you and yes my motor was rebuilt not replaced. I haven't run it today yet but I'm sure the check engine light will come on as always. I will post the codes on Monday when my mechanic checks it for me and I will post the codes and anything else he is saying? He did say it might have to go through a couple of cycles to reset though. Keeping fingers crossed?

 

You are in my city. I have a code reader and would be happy to check yours anytime for free. I think between the folks on the this board we can help you get things sorted out...


PM me and we can grab a coffee to chat and review whats going on- there is nothing that cannot be fixed.

INCEDENTALLY, the OC Jaguar club meets on Harbor By Victoria the second Saturday morning of every month, the next meetup with be March 8. There are some great minds that meet there and know their way around Jaguars.

Cheers!

Dave

 

Oh, and everything before you replaced the wiring harness may not have been faulty, it may have been the harness.... so if you look at it that way, you really only have been having a few problems.

Feel free to PM me today and I will get those codes for you to post.

 

Thanks I reset the Engine light on Saturday and ran the jAG for 65 miles too get smogged. It ran great but still couldn't pass smog because they said I needed to drive it farther. The engine light was off the entire time I drive it after resetting it, however the minute I turn the car off the Engine light comes back on within 30 seconds every time. The code I believe keeps showing is P1384 VVT. I've read that I may have to reset several times. I will have my mechanic reset again Monday. It says it could be oil pressure problem but it appears fine, the VVT Solenoid was replaced few months ago and we just changed the engine oil Friday 20/50 weight. I've also read it could be Cam Shaft sensor? My mechanic says he heard a slight knock lower part of engine but I'm hard of hearing and can't tell but the oil change might have fixed this? The car has run like crap ever since I had it rebuilt over two years ago, however after my Mechanic replaced the entire wiring harness, throttle etc.. and O2 SENSORS the Jag has run really good just can't get the Engine light to stay off. Also the ABS and Traction light keep coming on off and on and my mechanic tried to fix this too to no prevail and replaced the sensors and other faulty parts. What can I do now? I am in Costa Mesa and would like to meet up for coffee and talk sounds good I can be reached at 714-721-5049 Thanks

 

Hey David,

I'll give you a ring tomorrow and we can meet up- Here is what needs to happen:

1. reset check engine light
2. Drive X miles with varying conditions so that the engine cycles through all of the tests

Once the cycles are gone through, it will pass that part of smog. (I think you are allowed 2 unfinished cycle points)

I have a tester that will show what drive cycles have completed (as well as realtime data to see other potential issues) and here is a link to a thread that discusses what you need to do in order to complete the cycles:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-cycle-66702/

Keep in mind every time you clear the check engine light, it starts the drive cycle test all over again. I was having an issue as well and cleared the codes, drove until the cycles were completed and went straight to the smog station, not turning the engine off and had them run the smog test without shutting it down- that did the trick. I am guessing the next step will be to replace the VVT solenoid, hopefully as you are able after it passes.

 

LOL,smog wont past that, unless you get a title for custom car or show car?>

 

David - again, I would get the 20W50 oil out of there ASAP - that heavy weight oil will cause more havoc in flowing through those narrow oil passages to the VVT unit. Trust me.... these cars don't even call for 20W50 oil....

try 0W20 or 5W20 oil (short term) and sub 1 qt oil with Dexron V or VI trans fluid, reset CEL and drive - this may clear up very quickly.... the sooner the better.....

Regarding the ABS - what code(s)is your mechanic pulling - is their scanner even capable of pulling the chassis codes? If not, your throwing parts and $$$ at the problem to no avail...just my $0.02