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2000 XKR OBD II Port Bad Won't Read?

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  #21  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by itspec60
I think the turn signal problem is tied to this obdII issue. I looked in the JTIS electrical guide and there are about 20 ground points. Have you tried jiggling the turnsignal with your reader turned on? I'd look for a loose or corroded ground.
Previously before taking anything apart I tried jiggling the turn signal while the reader was trying to connect it did not seem to do any good. I left the panel underneath the steering wheel off there is a green wire that connects the turn signal that is disconnected if I can figure out where to solder that back on that should at least fix my dashboard issue... I read another post that you attach the green wire to pin 3 to fix the dashboard issue but I'm not sure where pin 3 is!

Hold on I'll attach a picture.... [Okay picture is attached, it is the solid green wire as you can see it is attached to the turn signal but the other end is lose]
 
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Last edited by seawind; 01-11-2012 at 04:36 PM.
  #22  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by seawind
Previously before taking anything apart I tried jiggling the turn signal while the reader was trying to connect it did not seem to do any good. I left the panel underneath the steering wheel off there is a green wire that connects the turn signal that is disconnected if I can figure out where to solder that back on that should at least fix my dashboard issue... I read another post that you attach the green wire to pin 3 to fix the dashboard issue but I'm not sure where pin 3 is!

Hold on I'll attach a picture.... [Okay picture is attached, it is the solid green wire as you can see it is attached to the turn signal but the other end is lose]
Do you see a solder terminal on the stalk missing a wire (has solder on it but no wire)? You can easily see the terminal where the green one attaches from below.
 
  #23  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
Do you see a solder terminal on the stalk missing a wire (has solder on it but no wire)? You can easily see the terminal where the green one attaches from below.
Oddly I don't it must have not had very much solder on it to begin with... I can't find my wire strippers so I'm about to go to the store pick up a pair strip the green wire back connect it to the one I think it is and maybe my problems will be fixed. Will post back soon!
 
  #24  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by seawind
Oddly I don't it must have not had very much solder on it to begin with... I can't find my wire strippers so I'm about to go to the store pick up a pair strip the green wire back connect it to the one I think it is and maybe my problems will be fixed. Will post back soon!

All the ones I can see from the bottom have wires, so if one is missing a wire, I am sure that is it.
 
  #25  
Old 01-11-2012, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
All the ones I can see from the bottom have wires, so if one is missing a wire, I am sure that is it.
Does the green one have it's own pin or is it connected next to another color? Because I cannot find it at all maybe I have to take the steering wheel off to get to it.
 
  #26  
Old 01-11-2012, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by seawind
Does the green one have it's own pin or is it connected next to another color? Because I cannot find it at all maybe I have to take the steering wheel off to get to it.
See the green and pink wire at the bottom? It should be a lug just to right (toward passenger side) and slightly above it. Sorry, the quarters are too close to get a good picture. It is not shared with any other wire.
 
  #27  
Old 01-14-2012, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
See the green and pink wire at the bottom? It should be a lug just to right (toward passenger side) and slightly above it. Sorry, the quarters are too close to get a good picture. It is not shared with any other wire.

Thats not the green wire that is detached the one that is connected to the turn signal is detached. See picture IMAG0333.jpg.

I attached the green wire that was detached and my console lights came back on steady but the left half of my dashboard and the headlamp indicator that tells you your headlights are on are completely out now. See picture IMAG0335.jpg. Theres not a fuse for this is there?

On another note the OBD II still wont read so I'm guessing it has nothing to do with this...
 
Attached Thumbnails 2000 XKR OBD II Port Bad Won't Read?-imag0333.jpg   2000 XKR OBD II Port Bad Won't Read?-imag0335.jpg  
  #28  
Old 01-14-2012, 05:17 PM
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You said that you checked the fuse and it was good, did you check voltage at the fuse to see if you have power to it?
 
  #29  
Old 01-17-2012, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Gus
You said that you checked the fuse and it was good, did you check voltage at the fuse to see if you have power to it?
Hey Gus sorry it took me so long to respond I was putting my dash back together and taking a few pictures to write up a tutorial on how to fix your dash/console lights if they happen to start going out like mine did... Which is completely fixed now but I still can't read my OBD II!

I'm not the best with electrical, I have an ohm ac dc meter but what setting would I place this on to check the voltage at the fuse?


Thanks
Ryan
 
  #30  
Old 01-17-2012, 05:10 PM
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If it is digital put it on 20v DC and see what you get + is power - is ground.
 
  #31  
Old 01-17-2012, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Gus
If it is digital put it on 20v DC and see what you get + is power - is ground.
May be a dumb question but!.. How do I know which side is power and which side is ground in the fuse box? Sorry learning as I go here.

I did check the fuses for continuity with the multimeter and they are good.
 
  #32  
Old 01-17-2012, 07:52 PM
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Pull the fuse and check the socket. They will be consistent down a line of fuses.
 
  #33  
Old 05-08-2012, 07:43 PM
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BIG UPDATE ... this is where I'm at on this problem

Ended up taking it to the independent mechanic to have all the wiring checked it was there for a few weeks everything seemed good they cleaned up a few grounds but nothing major. I had an airbag light on so we replaced the airbag module underneath the passenger glove box and that light went off. The independent mechanic said he thought it needed to be reflashed he had heard of these Denso ECU's losing there flash. He didn't have the equipment to reflash the ECU so I had to take it to Jaguar...

Jaguar told me I had a bad ECU and would have to replace it. AND IT WOULD COST $6000 to replace yes that's right three 0's!!!! Does anybody know anything about this? It seems odd to me that the vehicle still runs with a bad ECU. Yes the check engine light is on but I'm pretty sure that's related to a misfire in the engine not a bad ECU.


What do you think guys, just a Jag dealer trying to scam a large amount of money? Or do I really need an ECU to be able to read my OBD II again?
 
  #34  
Old 05-08-2012, 07:55 PM
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I would contact the appropriate District Attorney and press charges.
 
  #35  
Old 05-08-2012, 08:29 PM
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If it truly is the ECU, there a a number of firms that can repair or rebuild them for a few hundred $ or you can get a used one.
 
  #36  
Old 08-16-2012, 03:40 PM
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Default Pin 16 Obd cable colour

Hi guys
does somebody remember if the cable of pin number 16 is color orange or brown/white ?

Thanks so much for kind help
 
  #37  
Old 08-16-2012, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by luca.canella
Hi guys
does somebody remember if the cable of pin number 16 is color orange or brown/white ?

Thanks so much for kind help
I am assuming you are referring to your '97. Pin 16 on the OBD port is Brown/Purple.

If you can explain your problem, maybe we can help.
 
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  #38  
Old 08-17-2012, 03:52 PM
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Problem resolved, i have spanned the screws to remove the left panel cover and i had to look through the fuse box, i dont see very good there and i preferred to be sure im a bit blind at close look LOL
Thank you so much !!!
 
  #39  
Old 08-17-2012, 04:34 PM
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Hi guys, just another question, maybe there is a solution to this that is making me crazy.
I installed just for experiment a volo vp12 chip on my car.
The chip requires to get full performance a period of 120miles driving, and i was the most sceptic of this world but i have to say that works, the performance improvement is evident.
But there is a big big problem on XK8 and i think also other Jags.
The car after 10-15 minutes cut all the +12v to all the car except the integrated alarm.
So ? So here is the problem... Everytime i switch on the car the chip need to recalibrate and i cant move the car for almost 2 minutes until it finishes, and the worst thing is that without that about 100 miles driving the chip does nothing because he must achive car data, and he loose all memory everytime...
Is not about to trash the chip, 129 bucks are not a lot, but im really angry because that little toy really works, i dont know how and why, but it works...
I just need to understand if is possible to dont let him loose the memory everytime, even because i cant be stopped 2 minutes everytime waiting for his calibration and not almost never (except today for trying it) i drive for so long no stop.
The chip is connected via can pins and +12v pin 16 and ground 4
Any help is appreciated
Ciao !
Luca
 
  #40  
Old 08-17-2012, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by luca.canella
Hi guys, just another question, maybe there is a solution to this that is making me crazy.
I installed just for experiment a volo vp12 chip on my car.
The chip requires to get full performance a period of 120miles driving, and i was the most sceptic of this world but i have to say that works, the performance improvement is evident.
But there is a big big problem on XK8 and i think also other Jags.
The car after 10-15 minutes cut all the +12v to all the car except the integrated alarm.
So ? So here is the problem... Everytime i switch on the car the chip need to recalibrate and i cant move the car for almost 2 minutes until it finishes, and the worst thing is that without that about 100 miles driving the chip does nothing because he must achive car data, and he loose all memory everytime...
Is not about to trash the chip, 129 bucks are not a lot, but im really angry because that little toy really works, i dont know how and why, but it works...
I just need to understand if is possible to dont let him loose the memory everytime, even because i cant be stopped 2 minutes everytime waiting for his calibration and not almost never (except today for trying it) i drive for so long no stop.
The chip is connected via can pins and +12v pin 16 and ground 4
Any help is appreciated
Ciao !
Luca
Actually pin 16 of the OBDII port is connected directly to the battery. Although there area number of 12 volts sources in the vehicles that do shut off after 10-15 minutes, pin 16 actually remains powered.

The problem is probably related to the vehicle's CAN bus going to sleep after 10-15 minutes in order to save battery power while the car is off. Although it might be possible to devise a way to defeat this, then you will have a load of probably around half an amp constantly on the battery when the car is parked. This will drain the battery in a couple of days or so, therefore it is not a good solution.

Sorry I do not have a better answer for you.
 


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