What's the best place to buy pads and rotors for my 2002 XKR 100?

 

the brembo price for pads and rotors at the dealer have gone down alot.

 

Are there any special torx bits (reverse, etc) or sockets needed to get the caliper units off to replace the pads and rotors?

I've done my own brakes for the past 20 years, even on my wife's 98 XJ8L, but this will be the first time on my XKR 100.

Any advice would be appreciated - thanks

 

therevery easy to do.. 2 18mm bolts hold the caliper on..after you take it off you will be amazed at how light the caliper is then replace rotors .. and for the pads just need a small hammer and a little punch ..have to knock2 pins out of the caliper and take the spring out and they come right out.. then push the pistons in gently and install pads..

 

Dealer wants $756.51 per set for rotors, $585 for front pads and $489 for rear pads.

I'd hate to see the dealer price before this if it has dropped...those prices are rdiculous.

Can any of you techs get them cheaper? Thanks

 

yeah i can get them cheaper.. will need the last 6 of your vin..and they are cross drilled correct ? email me at jag_genius@hotmail.com and ill give you a quote

 

I sent you an email this am...thanks!

 

I want you all to know that if you need top quality rotors for your XK, there is a place online called "Brake Performance" that has really good prices and they know what they are doing in finding the exact rotor you need. They cross check the parts with Jag Dealers if necessary to ensure you are getting what you need.

Also, I got my pads at TireRack.com (Front $116, rear $109). They had the Brembo option for my 2002 XKR 100 and the pads fit perfectly. The brand name of the pads are Hawk, and they are high performance composite pads -- 1/5th of the cost of Brembo pads from the dealer.

As for putting them on, the front was difficult. Mine are Brembo/R Performance option calipers and they were held on by 19MM bolts that had to have been torqued to 1 Million ft/lbs! Exaggerating yes, but I had to get out my 28 inch breaker bar to loosen them. Then I had to heat my rotos around the the center to get them to expand enough to "tap" them off with my mini-sledge.

The rear calipers were much easier to get off. They were held on by 13MM bolts. But again the rotors had to be heated around the center (I used a 3200 watt electric heat gun), and were more difficult to get off than the front! Eventually I got them off. Once the rotors are off it is very easy after that.

The New rotors went on perfectly. The price for my front rotors (crossed drilled) was $241 for the pair. Unfortunately I had to pay $649 for the rear rotors (crossed drilled). Andy at Brake Performnce had a hard time finding them but eventually did. And it is weird that the rear rotors cost so much more than the front, since my front rotors were only one inch bigger (14 inches) than the rear (13 inches). If anybody knows why let me know...

The job took me about 6 hours to do all 4 wheels. My fluid looked clean so I did not bleed the system. My brake pedal is firm again like it was when I first got the car. I will drive around for a week or so and if the pedal starts to feel mushy I will bleed the system. But initial driving says the pedal is firm. Car actually stops too...

A little more time than I had anticipated in doing the job, but I saved a good bit of money doing it myself, since I had to buy ~$1100 in parts to begin with. I saved $1500 over the cost of dealer parts alone.

Next time will be easier, since I now have personal knowledge of how things exactly are...