If the compressor is not coming on, clutch is fine but not engaging, if you hook up cheap gauge that comes with little cans of refrigerant ( I have done this many times) should it not read some type of pressure in the system. I know on many cars in the past the AC compressor did not come on because the pressure was to low. I put some of that canned stuff from Pep Boys and the compressor started working and has cold air, did that recently on a 01 Accord that my brother said the ac was not working, I looked, no clutch spinning. I put some refrigerant and it started working. Same theory apply to a 03 Xk8???

 

I replaced the octopus hose on my car, any AC stuff back there I may have messed up?

 

My 2000 XK8 has a leaky hose, I can throw a pound of R134 in and it works for about a week. (I have a replacement hose in the trunk now, waiting for spring). Same deal; when the pressure from the added pound goes in, the clutch starts to operate until enough leaks out and the pressure drops too far.

 

the thing was cold this past fall, now NOTHING, either a switch or it is real low, it did not even register on the gauge. But I am right if there is anything in the system that it should show up on a gauge even if the system is off?

 

The static pressure of the system should be in the 30 - 40 psi range.

 

Yes the AC is supposed to be a sealed system where the refrigerant is under constant pressure. There is a high side and a low side. (Before the compressor and after) The parts store cans hook to the low side which should be between 30-40psj engine running AC on.

When the Engine is off the pressure equalizes between both sides of the system. But never add freon with the motor off.

If it's that low that you have no pressure you need to find your leak or you will have AC until it leaks out again.

Take care,

George

 

yea when I put the pep boys can gauge on it, nothing leaks out when I am putting on the connector. It is would appear it is EMPTY.

 

You need to add r134a and UV dye. We have a setup that includes the special glasses and the light. Then where it's leaking will glow in the dark. With slower leaks sometimes you have to leave it in for a few days and have the car come back.


this is the dye.


this is the light and the glasses...

There really isn't another way to find the leak but to sacrifice r134 with the dye in it.

Also, I don't know where you are but it has to be warm enough (above the lowest setting on the AC panel) to get the A/C to kick on.

Take care,

George

 

If the leak is large enough you can use compressed air to 'pressure-up' the system.
The A/C will not work but you should be able to hear the 'hissing' leak to track it down.

The downside of this is that you are likely to contaminate the rec/drier/accumulator desiccant if there is moisture in the compressed air.

Using nitrogen or another dry, inert gas will work but it is a lot of trouble.

If the leak is small then using refrigerant/dye is recommended as androulakis stated.

bob gauff

 

Bob,

I've heard about using air but never tried it. I guess the point is to not waste refrigerant and or vent it into the atmosphere via the leak? In theory any time the A/C system is opened / exposed to atmospheric air the receiver dryer should be replaced as well as a vacuum pulled on the newly repaired / sealed system to boil off any moisture before recharging with refrigerant. Dye should find any leak large or small from my experience. Less of a charge is needed when the leak is large bc it will immediately start appearing.

Take care,

George

 

well it was low enough not to kick on the ac, put in a can and got it back to 35 static, and it is working fine again.

 

That's all well and good but you should have added the dye. There's a reason it lost the previous refrigerant charge, and you have not address that. As we have explained the AC system is sealed, it will not lose refrigerant without a leak. Your actions are like filling the bathtub with the drain partially open. Then coming back finding a half full bathtub and turning the water back on until it fills without closing the drain and declaring the bath ready.

It may hold a charge for a while but eventually you will have to address the source of your leak.

Take care,

George

 

I understand your point. I have been down this road with a car before. It will leak out in a month or a year, if it is a month I lost 22 bucks and will have it fixed. If it lasts a year or more, it is a win for me.

 

I get it. All I was saying was that for an extra $10 you should have thrown the dye in it so if it does leak out at least you know where.

As long as you know you put a band aid on it and that it's a calculated risk it's all good.

Take care.

George

 

My recommendation is to find the leak and fix it. I used this and it took me right to the leak

Link.http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=leak+detector

Using the dye is good but I preferred the leak detector. I would also recommend replacing the separator and pulling a vacuum and then refill. If you look at the amount of money you are spending to put a bandaid on it now you would be better off making the correct repair.

 

Right now I have have 22 bucks in it.

 

almost all use the same type of system for ac- excuse ford for some new electric compressors, but anyways, basics are the same, you got a leak son ...

 

I had a jeep that I had to shoot a can into it every other summer. Have had other cars that I have done hat to and they were fine. My accord I have now I shot a full can in and it is still working fine. Sure they will prob leak out again. I don't keep cars real long so it may be sold before it stop working again.

 

All the cans have that sealer stuff in it, maybe that will work? What are those in the know feelings on that stuff?

 

Do NOT use the sealer unless you need to get it through a quick sale. No AC shop will touch any system that they know has had the sealer added and if they do evacuate not knowing it will seriously compromise their equipment.