The 06 XKR has been problem free for the 6 months I've owned it. The only problem so far has been a RP situation after climbing around 1000 ft. from Spartanburg, SC to Saluda, NC which takes place over 5-8 miles on I-26. It's happened twice and both times I've just fueled the car (gas is cheaper in SC). The first time it happened I consulted the experts in this forum and proceded to :
-Clean air filter area
-Checked duct from air filter to TB
-Cleaned MAFS and heating element with CRC MAFS cleaner
-Car has 29,000 miles
-RP clears after cycling shutdown and starts several times
-It hasn't happened under any other circumstances
Any ideas?

Thanks, Mike
2006 Silver XKR convertible

 

Get an inexpensive code reader or goto Autozone and have them read your fault codes. They are likely still stored in the ECU. That may help greatly with the diagnosis. Let us know what you find.

 

That was my next step---just ordered Equus 3130 Innova from Amazon. Looking forward to seeing what's stored in the ECU.

 

Most likely you have a problem with the intercooler electric pump. It is located in the right front of the engine compartment below the air filter. It is supposed to run whenever the engine is running but more simply, whenever the key is in ignition mode. With a stethoscope, you should be able to hear it running. If when you came out of the higher altitude and restarted the car, the check engine light went out, then this is the most likely cause. The fuse is in the fuse box on the right side of the engine compartment fuse box. BTW: this happend to me on the way up to Little Switzerland in your area. Happened another time on I-26. Reason it occurs is that most of the time the intercoolers are kept cool by the incoming air which is not under pressure. On a long climb, the supercharger is used and the air being under pressure heats up the coolant in the intercoolers. Without this pump running, the coolant gets hot enough that it cannot cool the incoming air. "pinking" occurs rather heavily and the engine management system responds with restricted performance. Once you have a cylce or two with some miles driven without pinking, the restricted performance is gone on recrank. The electric pump keeps the coolant circulating and hence cool.

 

Dick,

You hit a homerun. I was curious so I checked the 15A fuse, which was blown. I'm guessing that if my intercooler pump wasn't working this probably affected performance due to temperature of intercooler being elevated. Now since my background is in the electrical business I know fuses and circuit breakers don't just pop because they feel like it. Sounds like I need to inspect some wiring in the intercooler pump circuit. I'll check it out on the road once we loose some of this frozen stuff on the ground. I'm hoping there isn't a short in the motor. Thanks again for your direction. I understand you're located in Conyers? I grew up in Sandy Springs and my wife grew up in Conyers.

Thanks again, Mike

 

HI Mike, you might also check the amp draw as I have seen them run fine but draw more than 15 amps. Putting in a larger fuse is not the answer though. BTW: I grew up in the Emory area, later Dunwoody and now Snellville and work in Lithonia which is right next door to Conyers.

 

Dick,

It's interesting that the circuit is designed to protect at 15A but the motor could draw more than that? I was going to check the schematic to see how this pump is activated---thermostat or is it on when the engine is running. There could be a bad connection which would increase your resistance in the circuit and jack the amps up in the process. I'm curious how you figured that the pump wasn't running---was there an DTC on the ECU?

 

If a motor draws more current, its useally due to resistance, and or motor going out. Same reason why fuel pumps blow fuses and melt connectors in the tank

 

The motor is not designed to draw more than 15 amps. If it is, something is wrong with the motor, usually needing replacement. I just studied the system and the symptoms and when it happened. The pump is supposed to run all of the time the ignition switch is on regardless of load or temp or if the engine is running. If you just turn on the key, you can hear it hum very lightly. If you don't hear it, check it out with a stethoscope as some are very quiet. If you end up changing it, don't forget to bleed out the system. The supercharged cars have a bleeder at the top of the engine on the intercooler that must be removed to let all of the air escape.

 

A good thread guys, great contribution Dick on the S/C intercooler pump/motor.

 

And you can find bosche replacement pumps on ebay cheaper than you know who

 

Hats off to you xke1963........this is definitely one of the most accurate and unexpected diagnoses I have seen.

 

Guys,
Terrific information---I feel like Anthony Hopkins (Burt Munro) in "The Worlds Fastest Indian". A lot of good/intelligent information from folks who care. I'm going over the schematics from the JTIS and notice they show a intercooler pump relay on pg. 15 but I don't see one in the schematic on Fig. 04.2 (bottom left hand of pg.) or on Fig. 01.6 (Engine Mgt. Switched Power Dist.). Maybe the 2006 MY didn't have the relay in the design. I'll check all connections and pay attention to the fuse when I get it on the road. I still kinda laugh knowing that the pump hasn't been running all this time---must not be a big deal until the S/C is under load for an extended time.

Mike-2006 XKR

 

I just checked the circuit with a new 15A fuse and as soon as I turned the ignition switch to on it blew the fuse. I'll start the process of tracing the circuit knowing I'll probably end up replacing the pump. It looks like Jag used a Hella? pump which as Brutal said is fairly expensive ($329.00) versus what looks to be a Bosch (part # 0 392 022 002) pump at around $114. I'll find out once I get the pump out to check dimensions. If someone has done this with another pump which will fit the existing bracket please chime in.

 

The bosch one is only slightly bigger in diameter, should be easy to fix. Also the connections are the same, so making this almost a direct fit. The benifit is that it flows (in our intercoolant system) a good 10% more than the stock hella one.

 

avos,
Thanks for the input. I'll start investigating the circuit with the pump disconnected. It's good to hear that the electrical connector is the same. I guessing the performance of the engine should improve by having the pump actually working.

 

I meant the coolant pipe connections, the electrical wires need to be connected manually. And chances are indeed you will find some lost power. Make sure you do not mix the + and – of the pumps. The pump will run degraded when you have mixed the poles.

 

I just found blown fuse in the same box and turns out my S/C pump is also locked up!!! Thank you!

 

mish mish, is it blowing the fuse when you start it? Between you and mountain, you'll track down that short in have the time!

 

I was checking all fuses and other elctrics on my freshly bought XKR, so I found one blows fuse in the whole car, 20 amp. It was in that small box, next to passenger wiper. I replaced the fuse, and it blew up same second I turned ignition. Since none of the fuses are marked, I was searching forum to figure out what it was, this is how I found this thread and am very grateful. I located power cord that goes to the pump, tried to run pump straight from spare battery and got wires hot, yer pump did not crank, so my 01 XKR, with 69K miles has locked up intercooler pump!

My plan for tomorrow is, going to my friend at Toyota dealership, he will hook me up with auxillary pump from Highlander Hybrid, which cools power converter, or something. It is little larger, but has similar gage hoses. The have recall on this pump, so he has those almost new units for free.

Plan B is, purchasing BMW E39 heater booster pump (same Hella, but more reliable) at the nearest junkyard.