2nd tensions DIY instruction "HOW TO"
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 288
Likes: 23
From: NJ
guys, I started this morning on the left bank, at the point when I need to lift the lower cam shaft, everything is removed. god damn thing would not budge, i see it separating from the bearing on the right side but other than that even when i try to pull with all my strength, nothing. should i keep applying force up on the right hand side where it is already started to separate.
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 81
Likes: 7
From: Ventura County / CA
guys, I started this morning on the left bank, at the point when I need to lift the lower cam shaft, everything is removed. god damn thing would not budge, i see it separating from the bearing on the right side but other than that even when i try to pull with all my strength, nothing. should i keep applying force up on the right hand side where it is already started to separate.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 288
Likes: 23
From: NJ
+1 on tensioners replacement
thank you everyone for your help and guidance. everything is covered well on this forum. I would only add that probably a good idea to start with the right side since it is easier. And also make sure you are working on all five bearing caps on cam shaft. I originally did not notice the one closest to the sprocket and broke a cold sweat fearing I could break the shaft since the other four were already removed at that time. Fortunately I got lucky. My right side tensioner was in really bad shape, ready to fall apart. Left side had a crack but not so bad. Interestingly enough, it appears that somehow there is more oil in the right hand side of the engine as compared to the left one. I mean both sides were covered in oil, but on the right side it was dripping of all the parts.
regards
thank you everyone for your help and guidance. everything is covered well on this forum. I would only add that probably a good idea to start with the right side since it is easier. And also make sure you are working on all five bearing caps on cam shaft. I originally did not notice the one closest to the sprocket and broke a cold sweat fearing I could break the shaft since the other four were already removed at that time. Fortunately I got lucky. My right side tensioner was in really bad shape, ready to fall apart. Left side had a crack but not so bad. Interestingly enough, it appears that somehow there is more oil in the right hand side of the engine as compared to the left one. I mean both sides were covered in oil, but on the right side it was dripping of all the parts.
regards
Last edited by reko19; Apr 10, 2011 at 08:37 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 3
From: USA
I have replaced many tensioners and I have seen some primaries with cracks but never a complete fail, never done the zip tie method before, not sure I like the idea, I much prefer to lock the cams down.
If anyone is interested I do have CAD drawing file I done of a full tensioner tool set, I was going to make my own but ended up buying them instead
If anyone is interested I do have CAD drawing file I done of a full tensioner tool set, I was going to make my own but ended up buying them instead
I would love to get a copy of those drawings if you don't mind. I have been searching the internet for hours looking for them. I am a student on a tight budget, but I have access to the schools machine shop.
Last edited by H20boy; Jun 9, 2011 at 10:57 AM. Reason: deleted email address so the 'bots' can't find it here
Thats a proper job and certainly worth keeping, I will add though on pages 7 and 9 that is suppose to be a 5/8 or 16mm thread of whatever description you would like, that is the bolt and puller for the crack pulley.
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Posts: n/a
Thanks everyone for the tips. I did this using the cable tie and the replacement of the tensioners was easy. Removing the driver side valve cover was the biggest hassle. Very tight and there is a lot of crap in the way. I have a 2000 S-Type with 84K miles and both of the old tensioners were cracked. So if you have the old tensioners it is well worth doing a preemptive fix.
The other challege is I did not have the quick connect tool to disconnect the fuel line which is necessary to remove the valve cover. I took a plastic cap (from a bottle of armoral) took an exacto knife and cut off the closed end so I had a plastic tube. Then took the exacto knife and sliced it down the side and trimmed to fit so it slipped over the fuel line in front of the quick connect fitting. Then using an open end wrench just large enough to fit over the fuel line I put it behind the plastic tube and pushed it into the quick connect fitting. Using the wrench allowed me to put equal pressure around the plastic tube. The fuel line immediately popped off.
The other challege is I did not have the quick connect tool to disconnect the fuel line which is necessary to remove the valve cover. I took a plastic cap (from a bottle of armoral) took an exacto knife and cut off the closed end so I had a plastic tube. Then took the exacto knife and sliced it down the side and trimmed to fit so it slipped over the fuel line in front of the quick connect fitting. Then using an open end wrench just large enough to fit over the fuel line I put it behind the plastic tube and pushed it into the quick connect fitting. Using the wrench allowed me to put equal pressure around the plastic tube. The fuel line immediately popped off.
Veteran Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 372
From: South Carolina
You got it...metric.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 441
Likes: 113
From: St Charles, IL
Add me to the list. Started out trying to find lost oil and found 2nd gen tensioners. Plastic missing on right bank, and both banks were splitting.
Couple of quick notes on the job were that I was able to do the drivers side without messing with roatating the dip stick tube, just removed the dipstick itself. Also I was able to re-use the 40mm bolts by grinding them down to 35mm. The bolts have just enough thread so that they can be re-used.
Thanks to all who helped.
Couple of quick notes on the job were that I was able to do the drivers side without messing with roatating the dip stick tube, just removed the dipstick itself. Also I was able to re-use the 40mm bolts by grinding them down to 35mm. The bolts have just enough thread so that they can be re-used.
Thanks to all who helped.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Santa caruz ca
If you car was running bad due to a jumped tooth on one cam sprocket, you have to retime that cam. I'm guesing that you can eyeball the flat on the cam close enough to get the right tooth-link syncronization. you will have to get the crank shaft to 45 degrees first. (you can stick something in the hole where the tool goes.)
Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 7,657
Likes: 3,020
From: Arlington VA USA
If you car was running bad due to a jumped tooth on one cam sprocket, you have to retime that cam. I'm guesing that you can eyeball the flat on the cam close enough to get the right tooth-link syncronization. you will have to get the crank shaft to 45 degrees first. (you can stick something in the hole where the tool goes.)
Doing anything less in your situation is false economy IMHO.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Santa caruz ca
Basic valve timing
The whole valve timing is really simple. When you put the crank locking tool in according to instuctions, you lock #1 piston at top dead center (TDC). In order for the engine to run right each cam has to be right to make the exhaust valve just closing and the intake just opening. (There are small minor adjustments which the designers have made to increse performance, etc) Each cam has a flat spot that must be flat or parallel to the head surface when the #1 is at tdc. The other bank cams have to be on their flats also. There are other factors to consider to get this perfect so follow the book get the tension perfect, etc.
My secondary chain jumped a cog so I'm forced to do the above timing. I also want to replace both 2nd chains and do not want to take off the front cover so I am considering the chains with a master link. Have any of you guys used these with success?
My secondary chain jumped a cog so I'm forced to do the above timing. I also want to replace both 2nd chains and do not want to take off the front cover so I am considering the chains with a master link. Have any of you guys used these with success?
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 82
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
Master Link
Check with this company as they are the experts.
Emerson Power Transmission
(www.emerson-ept.com/eptroot/public/prod/dynamic_frame.asp?strMain=http%3A//www.emerson-ept.com/eptroot/public/prod/msechain/msechain.htm )
)
A master link could help a lot!!! I think it might save a lot of hassle instead of tearing everything apart.
Also look at these:
http://www.transeals.com.au/catalogu...e-Imperial.pdf
and
Results for Roller chain & sprockets:Metric roller chain
( www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-Roller-chain-%26-sprockets-cln-Metric-roller-chain/Categories )
Hope this helps.
Wild Bill
Emerson Power Transmission
(www.emerson-ept.com/eptroot/public/prod/dynamic_frame.asp?strMain=http%3A//www.emerson-ept.com/eptroot/public/prod/msechain/msechain.htm )
)
A master link could help a lot!!! I think it might save a lot of hassle instead of tearing everything apart.
Also look at these:
http://www.transeals.com.au/catalogu...e-Imperial.pdf
and
Results for Roller chain & sprockets:Metric roller chain
( www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-Roller-chain-%26-sprockets-cln-Metric-roller-chain/Categories )
Hope this helps.
Wild Bill
Last edited by wlbusmcr; Jan 16, 2012 at 09:36 PM.