Ok here’s how I did the job. I did one side at a time, I assume you can get to the stage where you have the cam covers removed if you need help with those let me know. Anyway here are complete instructions for my 2001 XKR 49K miles starting with the passenger side. Parks eBay $210

Passenger side
1/ Remove the air intake to the throttle body, unclip air cleaner cover, disconnect MAFS electrical connector, disconnect cam breather tube, undo two bolts above throttle body, lift of air intake. Put a rag over the throttle body intake to stop anything falling in there!
2/ Remove the coil cover I think its 8 little bolts. Then lift of plastic cover. Undo 4 coils 2 bolts each gently release coils. If the rubber tubes get stuck on top of the spark plugs just spray WD40 into the stuck bung then use long nose pliers to wiggle them of. I recommend you change your spark plugs if they are near 50K use. Check for any oil in the spark plug wells should be clean. Lift the coils out and lay them over the throttle body.
3/ Loosen the 14 bolts that hold the cam cover in place start from the out side in. Then remove the cam cover.
4/ Take a cable tie and secure the secondary chain to the exhaust sprocket (exhaust cam is the lower one) via the holes in the sprocket. The secondary tensioners red for 1st generation is held in place by two bolts. The new tensioner is metal and should come with two new bolts that are larger heads that the originals.
5/ Undo the exhaust cam caps (5 of them) start from the middle out and undo the bolts one turn each until you have reduced the tension across the cam. Takes 6-7 turns depending on the position of the cam. Remove the cam caps these must be kept in order and direction. This is easy as they are all marked with numbers and little arrows.
6/ Undo the two bolts on the 2nd tensioners.
7/ Gently lift up the exhaust cam and remove the secondary tensioner.
8/ Clean the mating surfaces of the cam caps and tensioners note the small hole between the tensioners bolt holes this is the oil hole so don’t block it.
9/ Lift the exhaust cam and install the new secondary tensioner. Bolt it down and remove the release pin from the tensioner. Pore a little engine oil into the hole in the plastic runner to prime it.
10/ Pore a little oil on the exhaust cam but keep mating surfaces clean. Bolt the 5 exhaust cam caps in place. Tension from the inside out a few turns at a time.
11/ Torque the cam bolts and secondary tensioner down. Think the correct torque is 80N.
12/ Clean and replace the cam cover use a new gasket. I used the blue gasket seal, take your time as it’s a bit fiddly and clean all parts as you go. Torque the 14 bolts from the inside out.
13/ Replace sparkplug (if you are changing them), air intake, new air filter if needed.
14/ Start engine and let it run till hot, check for leaks around the cam cover. Expect some smells as any cleaning fluids spilt oil are burnt of. After 10miles driving should be all good.

Drivers side
1/ Drain coolant, remove coolant cap, on the passenger side of the radiator, bottom right there is a plastic bung that has a cross head. You need to jack the car up to get to it. I used a very large washer from a ¾ inch nut/bolt (note this size bolt also fits the bleed cap in the supercharger).
2/ Remove the three clips on the 3 small pipes that connect to the coolant reservoir. The clips are removed by squeezing the clip together the use a very small screw driver to leaver them up. They should pop open. Lift up the coolant reservoir and disconnect the pipe underneath. Remove the little wire clip from the electrical connector under the reservoir and remove connector. Remove coolant reservoir.
3/ Remove air breather pip from cam cover top left. You squeeze it from the sides and pull gently. Remove the dip stick nut and gently pull the dip stick tube up an inch or so.
4/ Now repeat what you did on the passenger side.
5/ Remember to check the coolant level after you have completed the job and run the car. I found I didn’t need to bleed the supercharger as we didn’t empty this system of coolant but you may just want to check this. After you have replaced the coolant and coolant reservoir cap undo the supercharger bleed cap (3/4 inch inset bolt on top of super charger) turn ignition on and top up supercharger bleed hole until full. Done

That’s it simple. Just make sure you go slow and clean as you go.

 

Hi Simon

Good description of your procedure. When I joined the Jag shop I work at 4 years ago they were doing the same thing as you to r&r upper tensioners. I did it this way several times, but never felt comfortable with removing and replacing the cam, and in fact one time I broke a cam on reassembly when I got a little overly rambunctious. I then decided that removing the exh. cam sprocket made more sense and was faster and easier. I use a 3/8" breaker bar with a 7mm hex to remove the bolt that holds the gear on and gingerly pry it off the cam, change the tensioner, and reassemble. Later I got ahold of JTIS and found that they recommend this method. Also, torque spec on cam caps is 9-11 Nm.

John

 

Whoops, gave wrong size on the hex tool, it's more like 10mm

 

Good right up simon, i'll add the link to the FAQ thread under the tensioner section. Man, all I can say is ... wish there were some pics to go along with the excellent instructions. Thanks!

 

Very nice write-up! I did the same job on my 2001 XKR about 3 weeks ago. One additional point: it is really not necessary to drain the coolant and remove the coolant reservoir hoses. There is enough room to remove the valve cover by just unbolting the coolant resevoir and gently pushing it aside.

 

Simon, many thanks for the great rundown and thanks to John and WhiteXKR for the additional tips. This forum Rocks!

Ken

 

For those wishing to save a few dollars on the 4.0 secondary tensioner upgrade I thought I would add to this thread the information I have gathered and verified (on my 2001 XKR) for the equivalent Ford Lincoln LS (3.9L) parts:

Ford PN 2W9Z6K254BA Right Secondary metal bodied Tensioner (1 required)
Ford PN 2W9Z6K254CA Left Secondary metal bodied Tensioner (1 required)
Ford PN W500301S300 Bolt (4 required)

I got good pricing at http://www.sunroadfordparts.com. The Ford parts even said 'JAG' on the box.

Additionally, a good quality, fully compatible and complete gasket set (valve cover, full set of grommets, spark plug seals) is Felpro (Part # VS50724R) at a great price ($37.09 last I checked) from Rockauto. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10710

BTW, my vert is at 58K, and the engine was quite clean inside indicating reasonably attentive maintenance and my old right tensioner had a 3/4 inch crack in the body and the left had 1/2 iinch crack. I definitely am glad I performed the upgrade before disaster struck.

On to the convertible top hoses next...no leaks yet but the black sheath is peeling off on all my hoses near the connectors...tick..tick..tick.

 

Heres the link for the guy I bought my 2nd tensioners from.

http://stores.ebay.com/CHRISTOPHERS-FOREIGN-CAR-PARTS

Tensioners $139.95, Cam Gaskets set $69.99 + $11.04 S&H = $220.98 no sales tax

Quick efficient and correct for an XKR 2001.

My 1st gen (red color) tensionsers had 49K miles and there were no cracks on them. But I do change my oil every 5K miles and I do drive like a "bat out of hell" so guess I was lucky.

I do like the idea of taking the exhaust cam sprocket of, but how do u stop the exhaust cam from accidentally moving (as its under tension from the values) and if it does move is it easy to turn when you replace the sprocket ?

 

I'm still a bit unclear as to how the proper exhaust timing is maintained with either method (sprocket or cam removal). Isn't the tie strap that's used to keep everything in time looped thru the chain and exhaust sprocket? Is the sprocket keyed so that when reinstalled the positioning is restored?


Ken

 

Using the zip tie method the chain stays on the sprocket and cam in its original position. Reinstalled with a new tensioner the exhaust cam should be in the same timing position it was before removal.

Removing the exhaust sprocket from the cam requires that the cams be locked down on the timing flats with a tool to reestablish time. The sprocket to cam alignment is an infinitely variable taper without any key or splines.

 

Infinitely variable taper??...Hmmm.....can't wrap my brain around that!

 

Ha ok so if you remove the sprocket you must lock down the cams as there is no key e.t.c to allow you to replace the sprocket in the exact position on the exhaust cam. Well I guess you could mark it before you take it of. Where as if you just release the exhaust cam you don't need to, as the chain is secured to the sprocket via the cable tie.

So if you don't want to spend the $$$ for the tool I guess removing the exhaust cam was the best option. If you have the tool I guess removing the sprocket is a good option. Hence the dealers went with the remove sprocket option.

 

I would consider it worth buying the lockdown tool to do this job even once not just to avoid cam removal, but also to assure accurate cam timing. Of course you'll also need the flex plate alignment tool. I've noticed this can make the difference in idle quality. It can be done accurately without the tools, but with it makes it so much easier, plus I'm a little ****...

 

OK I'll bite, the flex plate alignment tool is used how? to accomplish what? Ken

 

The flex plate alignment tool locks down the crankshaft. I'm in the process of changing out the secondary tensioners on my xk8. The tool set is available to purchase or rent. I'm renting for $50 from Contenental imports. The JTIS instructs to use the sprocket removal method.

 

tip on using the camshaft removal technique. just mark the chain and cam gears with white out and you can only put it together one way.

 

Flex plate pin is not necessary to change secondary tensioners, only when the primaries are done. It won't hurt anything to pin it, but not necessary.

I do feel the same way about DIYing via camshaft removal, a little concerning that DIYers are going this route, but if its their own car...

I'm still trying to figure out what an infinitely variable taper is....where does this stuff come from?

 

Not sure why people are so concerned about removing the exhaust cam. Cams are built to take a huge amounts of stress so there's no chance of you damaging it. Just remember to take it slow when releasing it and tightening it. You only need to lift it about an inch or so to remove the secondary tensioners and all the cam tops are labeled and arrowed. When you tighten it down do use a torque wrench or at least mark the bolts so you can tighten them to the same position.

 

Steve,

I was referring to the fact that the interface between the cam and the sprocket does not have splines nor a key. It can be locked down by the exhaust cam bolt at absolutely any point of correct or incorrect alignment.

Tom P.

 

This is an interesting topic and I have read everything I could find on it before I did my secondary tensioners.

The argument for using the factory (sprocket removal) method stems from the fact that the chain and sprockets can stretch and wear over time, and also that the new metal tensioners have a slightly lower profile (shorter dimension) on the fixed end. By aligning the cams with the special tool, and tightening to specification with the special cam pre-tensioning tool, you can guarantee precise synchronization of the cams, and the correct pretension on the chain.

That being said, there are many testimonials to be found on this and other forums that the ‘shadetree’ cam removal technique works, and assuming you are attentive to tie wrapping the chain to the exhaust cam, replacing the cam bearing caps in the right order and orientation, loosening and tightening the camshafts bolts in small increments, keeping the bearings clean and oiled, and retorquing the cam bearing caps correctly, there is little risk and you can do it without removing the sprocket and using the cam alignment and pre-tensioner tool. There is a theoretical concern of mis-synchronization and incorrect pretension which can result in poor idle, but I have not come across anyone who has reported this actually happening.

I completely agree with most of the service professionals who say that if you are working on someone else’s car, the precise factory method is the only way to go.

If it is your own car it is more of a judgment call. If your engine or timing chain has significant wear or high mileage, I think the factory method (and a new chain) would probably be advisable. If you are very risk averse person, use the factory method. If you can’t stand the thought that your camshaft synchronization might be off by a tiny smidge, then use the factory method.

Otherwise, I think the shadetree method works for a home mechanic and will save the cost and hassle of acquiring the special tools. If you do perform the procedure, and in the unlikely event notice any idling or performance problems, or any chain noises, you should again remove the cam covers and perform the factory alignment and pre-tensioning with the special tools.

YMMV