Help,
Trying to locate info on troubleshooting/cleaning of the injectors on the supercharged 4.0.

My attempts at doing a search on this forum yield nothing, but I have to believe this has been covered many times. I am misfiring with a P0303, P1111, P1316, P0442, and P1313 codes.

jimejag

 

Stop driving the car for a bit. Running a car (if these faults are real) can fry, over heat and kill catalytic converters. Can even start a fire

See this thread....
pay attention to the images offered up by Gus...

The P1111 code means that the car, in the past, has completed it's diagnostic self tests and indicates the car is ready for inspection. You can basically disregard it.

Have you completely cleared the codes yet to see if the codes return?

About cleaning injectors. I've seen lots of folks get McGuyver (diy clever), remove all the FI (good time to replace all rubber bits and seals) and hook up some kind of pressurized set up with a 12v battery (sometimes a 9v radio battery will even do), get a FI pigtail and just barely TAP the wires to the voltage source to fire the injector. I don't think your problem (if you find you still have one after clearing the codes) is the injectors tho... But we'll see.

Might want to start checking the coils. And spark plugs. Did the car sit? Is it new to you?

The EVAP leak might be a little bit of a chase BUT, clear the codes and see if they/it returns... Have an OBD reader?

 

Thanks, good advice.
Already parked in the garage, can't find my ODB2 reader, so just drove to get the codes read then back. Definitely misfiring, running rough. I added some injector cleaner that was on the shelf for good measure. Would running 93 octane (Jump Start ethanol?) fuel contribute to injector issues?

Car is relatively new to me, so not sure about what has been done. Plan so far is to do the simple things first...I want to replace all the plugs anyway (NKG made with unobtanium), and replace #3 coil (Rock Auto, most $$$ one) and see if that helps.

What appears to me is that the supercharger and intercoolers all have to come off in order to get to the injectors. True? That would explain the in place cleaning tricks. Also need to check the tensioners. Looking for info tear down steps. Found one good teardown YouTube video of the 4.0 in a XJR, but not in an XKR.

If I go that far, I will replace the hose under there that I think is leaking, and whatever else should be done. Any advice on sourcing the bits and pieces needed?

jimejag

 

I'm sorry Jim, you are right. I think the SC business on top needs to come off to remove the FIs... My bad. I'm still familiarizing myself with the XKR and have a long way to go.

I think you are right... There are ways to run the tests (resistance across pins, wiring and maybe 3ven cleaning as suggested) in situ... Might all be for nothing. Pull the coil, move it, and see if the problem follows the coil.

 

Thanks...parts on the way, will know by the weekend.

 

Had #8 coil misfire then fail. I bought an NGK coil from Rock (69.71). Came in an official NGK box but the coil was unbranded. No logo. Parts number didn't match spec.
I sent it back and am waiting on a Delphi. Hope yours is a simple fix.

 

Check both fuel pumps are working .....
Easy to do, costs nothing...

if only one pump is working, this pump could also be on its last legs and not working correctly, if so, you will get misfires..
This is the first thing i would check as it costs nothing and easy to do with out dismantling any thing..
This was my fix for misfires and rough running on my 4.0 xkr ..

 

My personal experience with misfires has been due to coils (several have gone bad), and fuel pump(s), so I would second the suggestion to check those.
As stated, bad coils (one per cylinder on top of spark plug) can be traced sometimes by moving them, and the fault code following the coil, but they seem to be intermittent many times which can be frustrating. I believe you can get a coil tester for not too much cash on ebay, but I have not done so.
Fuel pump failing can be difficult as well, since they tend to work ok when cold, and then pressure falls as they get hot and overworked.
As above, check fuel pumps (as stated, there are two for 4.0 XKR ) by removing fuses selectively and cranking to see if there is fuel (can also measure pressure at the schrader value).
And move coils around and see if the trouble codes move with the coils.
Injectors tend to be very reliable, although fail occasionally, but coils and or fuel much more likely IMHO.
And you really don't want to pull the supercharger/intercoolers/new gaskets/etc/etc - a fair few hours - unless necessary - but leaking valley hoses is a good reason. If so, I would recommend getting the injectors cleaned and changing the seals while you are in there. And probably the knock sensors too while you are at it.....

 

Were the bad coils originally installed w/ the car or aftermarket?

 

My 2000 Xk8 had the same codes and also a restricted performance message. I had recently changed the fuel filter and I am not sure if that released "junk" into the system.

I did the easy checks first. Made sure the battery was good and that the alternator was charging.
Replaced the air filter.
Clean the MAF sensor and all the electrical connections and cleaned the Throttle body.
Checked hoses for possible leaks.
Put fuel injector cleaner into the fuel tank.
Cleared the codes and the car ran great and no more lights or codes. Sometimes you get lucky.

In my case it was a 20 year old car that needed a little maintenance work.

Good luck

 

I got so fed up chasing bad coils failing one by one on a regular basis I bought 8 from Rock Auto, I can't remember what brand but definitely not the OEM expensive ones, and no issues since for 2+ years.

 

Dave glad it worked out. I'm working thru the same basic list. Seems like keeping the battery good is crucial w/ these cars. Did the OBD/phone thing to get accurate temp and charging. It's nice to see a consistent 195-204 and 14.0-14.4 The Dephi coil I ordered from Rock Auto showed up. Unlike the "fake" NGK, it actually has the brand name. It's a BorgWarner product made in China. Hopefully the higher price means better quality. If anyone else has experience w/ this brand, I'd appreciate feedback before i spring for the other 7.

 

Curious about burning up the catalytic converters and how bad conditions have to be for that result to occur, obviously to be avoided.

Is this a common result of the engine starting to misfire and getting the code, or or only if you keep driving for (?) hours in that state?

There are some things that you stop immediately and tow the car to the shop, and others where you limp it there. Is this one of them?

 

It's a good question and hard to say. Lots of times I like to say "if it was me" in a situation like this - and I should have...

... A misfire can (the p1316 code - I think it is, indicates random and multiple misfires) dump unburnt fuel into the exhaust system, gets all caught up in the webbing of the CAT, and there it burns. Can cause the cat to get all kinds of hot. Turns into a bit of a blast furnace - I've seen em get cherry red... In what way the misfire is happening is important. Stuck open injector or a failed coil or plug will all dump unburnt fuel.

Usually the check engine light will start blinking to let you know things have gone from bad to worse - stop driving in this. Driving with misfire is not a good idea...

 

When the MAF sensor connector plug gets old and loose it will cause the motor to run very rough and misfire producing lots of misfire codes. It's an easy fix if you're handy with a soldering iron and makes all the difference! Ask me how I know!

 

How do you check fuel pressure on the (2001) XKR?. Is there an accessible Schroeder valve that does not require removing the supercharger components?
Thanks