That's a very robust motor in there. If there is something wrong inside, it's more than likely a simple wiring fix.

Those three resistance measurements I mentioned above will tell where things stand. Before spending hundreds of dollars, I'd run that down.

 

Gus I thought that was the case. I did go back to the pump in the car and tried to make the motor turn by shooting 12v into it. Tried both pins and nothing moved. Bummer!
I also tried to remove the four torx bolts with the pump in the rack. Doable, you can place the bit on the bolt but Ughhhhhh. What a horrible angle to work in.

















One thing of note, the bolts holding the motor to the pump on a 2005 are not T25. They are TORX 30.
And they are on very tight. In the end I did remove the pump from the cradle but left it attached to the lines.
Even here it is very difficult to get leverage on it to loosen the bolts. My electric gun does not have the power to loosen them. So stopped for a moment to regroup.

Pump of cradle still attached to hoses.





Motor with cover removed. Still attached to pump body.





What does thos sticker mean? Refurbished by??? Anyone seen this before?





Magnetic field in cover.

 

I guess my first question would be is it the motor or the pump preventing the motor from turning? As for the internal of the motor if I see that the connections and brushes look ok then I pack it up and send it out to the pros to find the problem and fix it. That is the first time I have seen a sticker like that on a pump so I would assume that it is a rebuild leading me to question if it is the motor or the pump. I have taken one apart to better understand the operation of the pump and motor but not to make repairs to it never had a need.

 

Gus
For what its worth, when checking the old motor I noticed that this part was loose, I believe it is a Diode.





I barely touched it wit a screwdriver and it fell right off. It lives behind the white wire.
Could it be as simple as replacing a burned out diode and resodering on the board?

 

Yes that is what I was talking about. I would say give it a try you have nothing to lose at the same time you may want to look at the brushes on your unit and exchange them at the same time.

On a side note you wonder who is doing the soldering, first the ABS module now the Pump motor.

 

It turned out to be the brushes not making full contact with the (stator??).
Pushed them closer and the motor turned.
It seems like the springs behind the brushes are not pushing them forward.
Correct me if im wrong but the springs do not come with the brushes. So shouls I use break cleaner or degreaser or a lubricant to make them move?

Note the shaft of this motor engages differently.

 

I am confused if the diode came off the motor from the car you are working on, or a spare motor. Regardless, diodes are not reversible. They only can go in one way, so be sure before soldering it that you have it in the correct direction.

 

Not to worry, it's not a diode.

It cannot be any component that has polarity.

 

Most of the time when they get stuck it is because of something causing it. See if the travel area is clear. Also look at the size of the brushes often when they get short they manage to bind themselves.

 

To clarify the loose part came of the old pump motor, not the one I am working on.

Gus the carbon brushes are long and seem to be relatively new, not worn down. I will
play a little with them. If no go my alternator rebuilder will look at it.
At least we know it turns.

 

http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jagu...747175bb90.jpg

Can anyone tell me what this gizmo is?

 

I am pretty sure it is a bidirectional Transient voltage suppressor or TVS. It is basically two fast diodes back to back in one case, so it is non polarized and will squash electrical spikes from the motor that are either positive or negative.

See Transient-voltage-suppression diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

It keeps electrical noise from getting from the motor to the electronics in the car. Since this motor is driven bidirectionally, they must use a non-polarized type of suppressor, instead of the unidirectional diode suppressors they use in some of the other DC motors in the car.

 

Thanks Steve I knew you would know!

 

I read several times the link Steve posted. I am no wizer afterwards.
But thanks, I guess I've reached my maximum level of incompetence.


So motor is with someone who knows about them.

 

With a little luck, you'll be fine. The motor is as conventional as can be. If they don't need to rewind the armature ... and they probably don't ... cost should be low (or at least tolerable).

(The device WhiteXKR linked to knocks down electrical noise. The motor would run without it, but not recommended. That green "Transient" sticker you asked about earlier probably indicates the motor has passed an electrical noise test.)

Good luck.

 

Well the motor tested good after applying a stronger current and after applying lubrication to the rear bearing. As seen on the last picture in post 22.
Motor now turns easy both ways even with the probe, its fuse no longer blows .
Still off the car and not attached to the pump.
Waiting for the car to come back from paint.
At 27k miles in ten years it turns out to be a problem of lack of use.
I will post again if there are any problems after reassembly.

 

Great. What did it cost, if you don't mind my asking?

Your case prompted me to assemble some notes on DIY motor repair which I will post (hopefully) later today in a new thread.

 

The cost was a thankyou. NC.

I did give him two alternators to clean and refurbish afterwards. I want to see him stay in business. $80 each.

Noted that I have now become your Muse.

Thank you that will fill a void in Forum Diy. Feel free to use the pictures.

 

On the road again!

 

Thanks on the pictures.

Not sure you want to go with "Muse". "Idea guy" maybe??