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98 XK8 - suspension issues

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Old 06-06-2011, 11:13 AM
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Default 98 XK8 - suspension issues

Greetings - this is my first post on JF - looking forward to all the great info from members!
I just purchased a 98 XK8 convertible with around 75,000 miles. This is my first Jag experience and so far I love it.
Not real sure how to describe the problem I'm having - but basically there are two things going on in the front-end suspension that I would love some help diagnosing:
1st - there is a "chirping" sound coming from the front-left side. Chirps when the car is off and I push down on the fender - and chirps constantly when driving (not varying depending on speed). Would this be a bad shock? Shock bushing?

2nd - the ride is smooth on smooth roads, but when I hit the slightest bump in pavement it really takes it hard. Not bouncy - but quite jarring. Particularly bad if I hit rough road whiles cornering - the front-end seems to want to "skip". Could this also be bad shock? Spring?

I've tried the old "push on the front end and see if it bounces" trick - and it's really pretty stiff. Problem is, I've never done it on a new xk so I'm not sure if it's softer (or stiffer) than it should be!

Any help would be much appreciated!!

Thanks

Scott
 
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:03 PM
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When you get your 10 posts and 3 day waiting period over with you can download and read this TSB for diagnosis.

bob gauff
 
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204-01 XK susp noise.pdf (70.1 KB, 932 views)
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:38 PM
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Bob's attachment will show you lots of the suspension parts to familiarize yourself with. Commonly, the noises are related to worn sway bar bushings (easy change) and strange handling issues (and rough suspension feel) on relatively normal pavement is due to worn upper and/or lower control arm bushings, and the upper mount above the shock. Lots of us have had to do most, if not all of them in being second/third hand owners.

May I suggest, if you do the upper mounts, you have to have the shock tower w/ coil removed and disassembled anyway, I recommend replacing the bilstein shocks while you're at it...$95 each at partsgeek.com. A little add-on for something you do not have to do(or pay for) any additional labor to achieve a stiffer, like new suspension.
 
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:49 PM
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Thanks for the tips! I'm going to try and get the front end up one night this week and figure out what's going on in there. The ride is great on smooth roads - not bouncy, etc. - but if I hit washboard or any kind of bumps it's pretty harsh and feels like it wants to skip a bit. Plus that chirping sound is about to drive me...errrr....crazy.

btw - this 3 day waiting period is brutal
 
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Smixon

btw - this 3 day waiting period is brutal
I am NOT a 3 day waiting period
 
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:58 PM
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Ok - that's pretty funny.

No disrespect intended, Brutal!
 
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
I am NOT a 3 day waiting period
But ... you have your ... moments
 
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:44 AM
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that was a really, really long three days!

Thanks Bob
 
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:54 PM
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Yeah, sounds like you have some bushings that need replacing.
 
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:58 PM
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Yeah - I suspect that's the problem. Strange though - it doesn't "chirp" all the time (but when it does it's really darn loud). I'll get it on a lift this weekend and see what it looks like behind the wheels.

Thanks

Scott
 
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Old 06-09-2011, 06:05 PM
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All you descibe will go away if you re-rubber and ball joint the front end. My 99 was awful until I did it. The only thing I skipped was new shocks and upper shock mounts (I'm now retired and cheap!) What a world of difference. I almost like the Perrilli's again. Now if I could get rid of the cyl 6 misfire that keeps coming back............
 
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:39 PM
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scott, when checking those sway bar bushings, when its up in the air, get some pressure under the front tires and lift it a bit so the sway bar assembly isn't stretched...you'll find loose/squeaky parts easier if its loaded that way.
 
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:39 PM
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Thanks Mike. Did you do the work yourself? I was considering it until I read one of h20boy's posts about his adventures in reworking his front suspension - now I'm not so sure I'm equipped to meet the challenge.

I also know there has been some debate about rubber vs poly bushings - I gather from your post that you went with the OEM-style rubber bushings? If so, where did you purchase them?

Again - I appreciate the input (and encouragement)!

Scott
 
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:34 PM
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No, I wimped out and had my local foreign mechanic do the work, and lucky because one of the upper susp bolts was frozen and had to be cut out. The parts were britishparts.co.uk which the Rev. had trouble with, but the shop said they fit just fine. Thought about the poly, but also read some negatives. Oh well, roll the dice. Anyway, the kit was $325 and the labor $900., so job done, love the car again, now for that misfire.........
Mike
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:14 PM
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Ok - here's the suspension squeak update - upper strut plate/shock mount (seen them called both) on driver's side is shot. center post of shock rubbing against the body (thus the infernal squeaking if you even look at the car wrong). A couple of q's for the esteemed group:

(i) should i go ahead and swap out both upper plates (at $200+ per side - ouch!) while I'm doing it?

(ii) can't tell if the shocks are bad - not bouncy when I do the "push down" test - but the front end is really, really low and the ride is a bit harsh - swap 'em now?

(iii) would it be complete overkill to just go ahead and do all the bushings, shocks, plates at once - even if they look "ok"? I figure the incremental cost shouldn't be that great (assuming an honest mechanic) once it's torn apart for the shock/strut mount replacement.

Thanks! Can't wait to get the ol' girl riding like a Jag again!

SM
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:26 PM
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I have my 3rd XK8 now. And on all of them you can expect at some point and time, often as early as 30k miles and definately by about 50k miles to do the front end complete. What I mean by that, replace all controll arm bushes (like one said all the rubber), and I mean upper and lower control arm, replace ball joints, upper and lower, (no, you don't need to bey a new control arm, you can press them out and press the new ones in. There are instructions around here somewhere, I have done it, ask if you need help).
I also replaced the rubber bushing securing the steereing rack, and while it was simple the swaybar links and since you need to do alignment anyways after that work, I also replaced steering knuckles just to be sure. (Doubt I needed to, but did it anyways.).
Now, you got about a new car in front. After haveing had 3 XK's mileage between 60k and 100k, I never had to replace front shocks, upper mounts or spring mounts.

Keep in mind, all of the described probably can cost you up to $ 3k at the dealer. I did the work myself and bought the parts online. Total parts was I believe $ 600 or so. Has been a while, so not sure. May be a bit more.

One thing so. Occassionally I get a creaking noise from the steering when turning wheel in park even after all that work. I chose not to put the time in and ignore.

Front end suspension handling is like new after the work though.

Also keep in mind. The XK has a fairly short supsension travel. When pushing down they are quiet stiff and, yes even while riding smooth on good roads, a decent bump will be jarring. I never had a new one, but my '97, 99 and my 2003 are pretty much all the same in that regard.
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:30 PM
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And for the rear end:
I had a knocking noise which I suspected the upper mount to be the cause. I took the whole rear end apart and that means taking the spring out. All was fine and I put new mounts in while I was in there. But that was not even needed and made no difference. It turns out to be a bad wheel bearing.
However, if your rear sits low, I suspect a bad spring rather than a bad shock. INspect the spring for any craked off ends or a bad spring mounting plate. (I have never seen that though on a Jag but on other cars).
When the spring is free, measure the length of the spring and check with specs for new. Check shocks for oil leaks. Check if you have the shock with the electric valve (plug on top or not).
 
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Smixon
(i) should i go ahead and swap out both upper plates (at $200+ per side - ouch!) while I'm doing it?
I would, definitely, or else one will be a little higher than the other, making handling different and who knows what else.

Originally Posted by Smixon
(ii) can't tell if the shocks are bad - not bouncy when I do the "push down" test - but the front end is really, really low and the ride is a bit harsh - swap 'em now?
Optional, but at my mileage of 100k, I did them with the rest of the bushings and it made a huge difference, you're only looking at $100 a shock too for piece of mind.

Originally Posted by Smixon
(iii) would it be complete overkill to just go ahead and do all the bushings, shocks, plates at once - even if they look "ok"? I figure the incremental cost shouldn't be that great (assuming an honest mechanic) once it's torn apart for the shock/strut mount replacement.
I would do the upper mounts, shocks, sway bar links and bushings, and upper A-arms, and only do the lower control arms in this 'round' if they were showing some signs of movement when using a prybar on them. It is usually pretty evident if they bushing is deteriorated to the point of losing strength, the end will be smashed and deformed against the control arm, the oil-filled bushings (early type) were a mess if they fell apart...and easy to diagnose.

That's my take on your situation. Hope it muddies the situation.
 
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:28 PM
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Thanks Matt - I was thinking I should probably go ahead and bite the bullet while I have it torn apart for the uppers.

So if I don't do the lowers (which are hopefully ok), I shouldnt have to drop the steering or get into any of that mess - correct?

Also, on the shocks, I've seen the Bilstein replacements ranging from $90/ea up to almost $200 (w/o adaptive control). Are these the same shocks just different retailers' pricing - or is there a particular model that I should be looking for? Partsgeek has been mentioned on the forum several times and they're around $90/ea - but britishpartsco is closer to $200 (w/o shipping)

If I didn't LOVE this car so much I'd go back to driving an old Jeep.....

Thanks!

Scott
 
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Old 06-16-2011, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Smixon
So if I don't do the lowers (which are hopefully ok), I shouldnt have to drop the steering or get into any of that mess - correct?
you are sir! It is rather labor intensive, but isolated to just the arms and their connection to the steering knuckle.

Also, on the shocks, I've seen the Bilstein replacements ranging from $90/ea up to almost $200 (w/o adaptive control). Are these the same shocks just different retailers' pricing - or is there a particular model that I should be looking for? Partsgeek has been mentioned on the forum several times and they're around $90/ea - but britishpartsco is closer to $200 (w/o shipping)
$90 from partsgeek is a genuine Bilstein (heavy duty - w/o adaptive). Yes, there are several sources, but I got all of my shocks, front and rear, from partsgeek for $90+.
 


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