My car sat in a garage from the 7th of December until I tried starting her on the 26th.

I was out of town for 3 weeks so I ran the car before I left and put in some Stay-Bil also.

Car just cranks now with no fire. I have it on a trickle charge to keep the battery up to max and it just spins and spins.

Am I going to have to have this towed in or is there any suggestion as to what I might try.

Don't smell gasoline and I tried to flood it just to make sure.

 

I would read through this link for most logical analysis of starting issues:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=30792

Come back with any questions and please let us know what happens.

 

It appears I'm having this problem also. My wife went to start after sitting for 5 days. Temp outside is about 17-25F.

I'll see if I have any codes tonight and will heat the garage then try again.

Just installed a new Interstate battery a week prior, and have driven the car without issue.

She said it would crank fine but not start.

I'll keep you posted.

 

Just ran the dia. pulled a P1111 code. when trying to start the starter sound different like it is not fully engaged. Also there is a slight hint that it wants to turn over but won't.

 

I had this problem about a month ago. I had my car towed to the shop and they told me I had to replace the fuel pump. All is good now.

Not sure how you would test for that, but there's probably a code.

If it's not the fuel pump, you might want to read about the dreaded "Nikasil" problem.

Here's some great information from one of the members, Gus, who has an excellent webpage dedicated to Jaguar issues & repair.

http://www.gusglikas.com/autorepair.htm

Here's an excerpt from his link entitled "Nikisil 99xk8" from his GREAT webpage.

"Posted 3/2006

I have a 1999 XK8 and you can read my additional comments pertaining to the Nikasil engine. I did a little research when I got the car and one of them was to take it to the dealership and have them check the car. No problems were detected and it ran fine for several years without oil consumption. I did however, experience three no start problems. Once when my son started the car and only let it run for less than 5 minutes in the driveway and the second for what ever reason I started the car in the driveway and turned it off and the third when I moved the car from the driveway to the street. The fuel in a cold engine block will wash the cylinder walls of oil resulting in no compression and no start. Remedy pull the plugs add a few drops of oil reinstall the plugs and hope it starts or try starting until it starts and if it does, hope that you did not burn up the starter. This is a real problem with this engine. And from what I understand not all have this problem. However, I would say the majority do. It is just a matter of time. My suggestion to you would be to use the low sulphur gas as suggested, have the oil changed when required and perform all the other maintenance that is required and hope for the best. You could be one of the lucky ones and I hope you are. I was not as fortunate as many others. However, I do not need to worry about it now. "

 

Hi Mark,
Sorry to hear of your troubles. I hope that it an easy fix for you. I don't know if this is the same issue, but it is worth a try. I have experienced a non-starting problem 2 or 3 times now and it was an easy temporary fix. All I had to do was turn the key on and run the shifter through the gears a few times. One time I did start it in Neutral also. This same procedure has worked when it wouldn't try to crank, as well as when it cranked but wouldn't fire. Talk about relief when it fired right up after just moving the shifter! I assume that there is a loose connection related to the shift lever, but I have not looked into a permanent repair for it. This has happened over 4-5 years, so it is not a big problem. Hopefully, your solution will be as easy. Good luck and let us know how you fare.
Regards,
Brian

 

well getting pissed off helps sometimes. I got it to start after 10 long cranks. I listened between each crank to the sounds. I heard the fuel pump each time but I also heard something else. It was from under the hood. So I opened the hood and cranked some more. the car was really chugging, but not starting, at this point. I took off the snorkel and manually opened the butterfly and blew into the throttle body. Cranked somemore, it chugged some more, but did not start, but this time I heard a constant buzz. Got out and traced the buzz to the accelarator cable side of the throttle body. So on the last crank I "set the choke" sot of speak. This opened the butterfly and bam it turned over ran like @#$% until all of the raw fuel was gone then finally it smoothed out. I let it run for a few minutes the crossed my fingers. Shut it off. Tried it again and it cranked right up no problem. So now I'm guessing that what ever motor is on this side of the t-body is suspect. Any ideas on this point.

Just as an aside it is about 17F right now and I let it warm to op temp and the whole valve train sounds like playing cards in the spokes of a bicyle.
It always had some noise but this seams louder.

Happy friggin New Year.

What do you all think?

 

For what it is worth I was able to start my Nikasil block car 2 times. I contribute the no start to the washed cylinder walls. The second time it would not start I burnt up the starter. I did not know about adding oil to each cylinder.
The Nikasil problem is unique and should not be overlooked or taken lightly. If you have a no start problem on a Nikasil block first check for fuel and spark. If you have both pull the plugs and add oil to the cylinders and reinstall the plugs. With the accelerator to the floor (this will cut of fuel) and begin starting. It may take several attempts. This procedure has proven itself many times.
Is this the answer to all the no start problems, NO. However, it has worked in the past and my best bet is that it will continue to be a solution when you have a Nikasil block with fuel and spark and no start.

 

Thanks for that Gus. I have heard you speak of this before. However I have the reman steel lined block in this vehicle. I' guessing I have about 40k on this engine. The Nicasil lasted about 39K.

 

The 'drive by wire' throttle body continually comes up for starting and strange problems. The foot pedal turns a rheostat that sends a signal to the ECM which operates a stepper motor on the butterfly valve. All that seems repairable to me but is only available as a complete TB.

One poster suggested spraying the throttle cable side with a electrical contact cleaner but there has not been much experience reported on the subject.

 

I would guess you would need to open up the TB on this cable side to get access to the contacts?

 

Does anyone have the code for P1111. What I found on line was that a P0111 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance.

I know P is Powertrain, 1 is the manufacturer, and the rest is the code. Correct?

If all of this is correct does anyone have any I idea's where to start attacking this problem?

Glad I got an extra car. Not glad my wife is down with a virus and won't be needing the Jag for about a week.

 

Just got thru searching the general forum and the consensus is that the P1111 is a readiness code for the OBDII. I guess i'll check the MAS and clean it off again and check for bad vac hoses. Is there a good, better, best for hoses when vacuum is involved. these hoses are all now 10 years + old. I used to always use fuel line hoses because they were reinforced and would not colapse.

Sorry to keep rambling. And I apologize to mark@ddi for stealing this post.

 

Mark,
The p1111 code is the system checks are complete since the last memory clear. Now from what I can tell you got the car started. Why do you want to get into the throttle body? If the car is running and you can get it to the dealership and you think you have a problem have them test it and tell you if it is a problem. At times all that is needed is to re-flash (re-program) the computer and the problem is solved. Now you were talking about a rattle, what is that all about. Keep in mind that at 17f you will do a little rattling. For what it is worth I had the no-start with my 95xj6 4.0. I moved it from one side of the driveway to the other. Held it to the floor and kept cranking. A lot of smoke, sputter and a sigh from me when it started!

If you think you have another problem tell us what that is so we can help. Digging into the TB could cost you $2000+.

 

Your right. However I will look further into all my vac lines and connections just for good measure. I do need to make the appointment though.

Through some web searching I was able to find a reman TB by
Jaytan Industries. Cost after core return 700.00. Includes 2 year warranty.
Jaytan appears to be a similar reman company to the folks who have taken on the mirror issue.

The rattle was more valve chatter. At idle it seemed noiser but once warmed up and you bring the rpm's above 1200 all goes away. I'm sure it is because it is temp driven as far as the noise goes. I forgot how much fun 17F was.

 

That TB rebuild info is a good find! Do you have a link for this?

 

http://www.jaytanindustriesinc.com/index.aspx

Here is the link. All they ask for is the casting number off your old TB so they can get you the correct one.

Well I stopped by the dealer on the way home to make an appointment, and my service writer asked what was the problem. After I explained what was going on he said keep your money because what I did was exactly what they would do and have been doing all week.

He said they have seen a-lot of customers this week having the same problem. He said there is a pattern with the model years of 1997 thru 1999 with this cold start occurance right now.

The method they use is the crank the engine at 20 second bursts.
Repeatedly, until they start to get the chug. Then they will depress the accelerator completely to the floor and hold and crank again 20 second burst.if that doesnt't work the next time they will hold the accelerator about half to three quarter, then another 20 second burst.

Repeat as neccessary until it starts. Once started let the engine come down to idle and let idle up to operating temperature.

Then they will drive the cars for about 5 miles to really make sure all of the raw fuel is spent. He said sometimes it takes them up to 30 minutes or more to start some cars brought in.

But he also cautioned not to start the car and not let it completely warm up before shutting it down when the temps are at this level. I assume this creates the flooding issue that this area is seeing with these models.

So do not start your car to move it out of the garage just to get the trash out. If you do let it completely warm up before you shut it off.

This level right now in Louisville have been between lows of 9F up to 30F max during the day but wind chills have kept the daily temps cooler.

As far as my valve chatter he again suggested not pay to much attention to that until the temps get back to normal then give it a listen. Espically if it goes away after achieving opt temp plus RPM's above idle.

Happy New Year.

Hopefully this info will help Mark@ddi whom I hijacked this post from.

 

That is a lot of good information and will give others a worm and fuzzy. It sounds like you found a good garage because not all are forth coming as he was.

You should send Mark a PM!!

 

That good garage is my local Jaguar dealership. I guess they are better than most or it may be that they know I won't stand for any thing but being treated fairly. I guess it goes hand and hand with treat others as you would treat yourself. I'm sure there is a bible verse in there somewhere.

 

Being towed to the dealer as we speak.

On Sat nite a mechanic friend came over and we tried it all.
Fuses, Relays, Starter fluid(would fire and then stop). All we could guess was that it was bad fuel or a fuel pump. Threw a can of heet in and waited overnite and no go.

I hope it is the fuel pump and not the dreaded Nikasil issues?

Our weather sucks here cold, misty rainy and that is after Dec-Jan 20" of snow and a low of -13.

Will update

Thanks everyone