You can remove the black box & leave the valve block in place & the brakes will work fine but without abs. It's even possible to separate them without disconnecting the brake lines if you know where the bolt recesses are. There may be an insurance cover issue though...

John

 

Don't really see how to remove the module without disconnecting the lines. Space is tight and I don't want to bend the lines. However, I would like to avoid bleeding the brakes twice (removal, reinstall) if possible, so I welcome any insight you have.

 

Here's a procedure to do this, but there was some slight bending of hydraulic lines. Done years ago. No ill effects.

Good luck.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Using a procedure posted on another forum a few years ago by a long-suffering XK8 owner named Jeff Cline, I was able to remove the module without disconnecting brake lines. This is Jeff's description ...

Removal Instructions I think I may have driven the car with the module out, but not sure anymore. (This is often the case with things that happened more than 15 minutes ago.)

 

Hi.

There is lots of information on the ABS/Traction control problems in the FAQ section. I managed to fix it after reading all the information given very thoroughly.

 

Are you sure you can drive the car with the ABS module removed? This might help http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...aul%20Bush.pdf

 

OK, after much research, great suggestions from everyone on the forum and a backup plan courtesy of Motorcarman from Decatur, I have decided to bite the bullet and attempt the ABS module fix.

I will save this great adventure for the weekend, but will update everyone with the results when I'm done.

So wish me luck.

 

Well, I thought I would update everyone. Pulled the ABS module using the fine instructions found thru the forum and opened it up. One connection was cracked all the way around and the second connection was starting to crack. Put new solder on both, RTV'd the box and let sit overnight snug in my vise.

Reinstalled this morning and no ABS/Trac light! Amazing! Did a quick test drive to warmup condition and all seems to be well. I still need to bleed the brakes, they are a little spongy now.

A few notes for anyone who is considering attempting this...it is indeed a very doable DIY project. It requires minimal handyman skills, lots of patience and remembering not to force anything (lines to ABS?). For XK8 owners the illustrations from jag-lovers.org must be an early model or possibly an XJ. To refit the windshield washer filler, I had to go up thru the wheel well access panel to hold the filler neck in place. Also be careful with the hydraulic line separator guides. They become brittle and break easily.

Lastly I must thank this forum for all the help and encouragement. Special kudos to H20boy for the diagnostics help and to motorcarman for a very helpful explanation of some concerns I had, not to mention convincing me to do it at all. Very much appreciated. Thanks guys.

Now to see if the Low Coolant light comes back or not.

 

Congratulations! That was a learning experience for a lot of us.

 

Thanks for the update and well done!

 

I will be attempting this fix. Did you use rubber or silicone RTV?
Thanks

 

I used Permatex clear RTV silicone. Looked like it had been sealed originally with rubber? You'll hear some cracking when you take it apart, I was told that might happen. Just make sure the body itself doesn't crack.

Drive it on my errands today & everything is still OK.

 

Photos? Pretty please

 

Waterdragon
Sorry I'm not much of a photographer. I did this last year. the hole is about 1" up and 1"to the left from the bottom right corner. The drill press allows control of the depth.

 

My attempt to do the solder repair failed. I noticed on the back side of the module what appears to be some kind of leak. It is a yellow foam looking substance. Any ideas what it is?

I called Module Masters to see if they could confirm my suspicion but they only told me to send it to them. They said if they couldn't repair it I would only be out the shipping.

 

Not an electrical genius, but I did work in a Radio/TV repair shop when I was in high school (they actually repaired TVs then). Anything that looks like a leak or something like watery foam is bad. Something has likely fried itself. Transistor, resistor, or some such. Bet if you look around, one of the small electrical bits has a distorted shape.

There are some EE's on this forum that can do better at an explanation, but something got too hot. May still be fixable though, so probably worth sending off for repair.

 

If it is wet it is likely a failed electrolytic capacitor. Post a picture and one of us probably can tell you for sure.

 

OK - so I should have read the rest of the thread, - most part deleted, but FWIW - I did not trust me to do the repair, and I have soldered Boards in the past, I found a place in CA that did it for $55 - plus cost of shipping the unit to them - shipped it on a Monday, had it back by Saturday - ABS/ASC problem fixed!

 

Congrats on the fix. Nice to see nothing on the dash except the mileage readout isn't it? Not to mention knowing you can stop better now.

p.s. coming from the UK to Grapevine has to be a big culture shock.

 

Here is a pic of my module

 

Absolutely!! I am in the middle of recommissioning the car after a while in Storage (Long story) and the dash was lighting up like a Christmas Tree, I just have the one warning to fix now and she is good!

I have been in the US for 15 years now, and Grapevine for 10, its not been too bad, my Wife is from Shreveport - now that is a culture shock! LOL.

Only thing I miss from home is Family and Fish & Chips....