ABS/ASC problem has me stuck
#1
ABS/ASC problem has me stuck
ABS/ASC error was intermittent, but is now constant. Comes on as soon as I switch on key and stays on. Lately the low coolant light has been keeping it company after warmup. I have done the following diagnostics: cleaned wheel sensors, checked wiring at wheels, put a meter on ABS plug to check resistance and it is within range (1.1), and battery is OK (12.67 at rest). Plus I have done a hard reset multiple times.
Maybe unrelated, but I have a new (90-days old) temp sensor in the overflow tank and plenty of coolant in the system, with no visible leaks.
Based on what I have read here on the forum, my next step should be to open up the ABS module and see if it needs a solder job. I was ready to do that, but cannot find an E5 torx socket anywhere today.
Am I on the right track here or have I missed something? And what brilliant Jag engineer decided undersized external torx bolts were a good idea?
Maybe unrelated, but I have a new (90-days old) temp sensor in the overflow tank and plenty of coolant in the system, with no visible leaks.
Based on what I have read here on the forum, my next step should be to open up the ABS module and see if it needs a solder job. I was ready to do that, but cannot find an E5 torx socket anywhere today.
Am I on the right track here or have I missed something? And what brilliant Jag engineer decided undersized external torx bolts were a good idea?
#2
#4
#6
Jag#4, if you want to drop down this way, I've got my AutoEnginuity back, and can read your ABS codes for you. I'm in N Fort Worth, may be in N Richland Hills tomorrow (Sunday) lounging at a pool. try my cell (Two-one4-7seven3-29sixsix) if you want to come by. I'll put the AE and laptop in the boot, just in case.
The following users liked this post:
Jag#4 (07-15-2012)
#7
ABS/ASC error was intermittent, but is now constant. Comes on as soon as I switch on key and stays on. Lately the low coolant light has been keeping it company after warmup. I have done the following diagnostics: cleaned wheel sensors, checked wiring at wheels, put a meter on ABS plug to check resistance and it is within range (1.1), and battery is OK (12.67 at rest). Plus I have done a hard reset multiple times.
Maybe unrelated, but I have a new (90-days old) temp sensor in the overflow tank and plenty of coolant in the system, with no visible leaks.
Based on what I have read here on the forum, my next step should be to open up the ABS module and see if it needs a solder job. I was ready to do that, but cannot find an E5 torx socket anywhere today.
Am I on the right track here or have I missed something? And what brilliant Jag engineer decided undersized external torx bolts were a good idea?
Maybe unrelated, but I have a new (90-days old) temp sensor in the overflow tank and plenty of coolant in the system, with no visible leaks.
Based on what I have read here on the forum, my next step should be to open up the ABS module and see if it needs a solder job. I was ready to do that, but cannot find an E5 torx socket anywhere today.
Am I on the right track here or have I missed something? And what brilliant Jag engineer decided undersized external torx bolts were a good idea?
Regarding the low coolant, there is a magnetic level float inside the tank which is a separate part from the sensor outside. They tend to attract grit and get stuck. I'll bet that is your problem. Removing the tank and giving it a good flush may solve it.
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#8
Based on a reading from an AutoEnginuity scan tool provided by H2Oboy (many, many thanks Matt), it appears my issue is indeed the ABS module. So now I just need to find an E5 socket to remove it. I'll update this thread when I get the module repaired and put back in.
Clearing the codes seems to have removed the low coolant error, at least for now.
Thanks for all the advice guys. Much appreciated.
Clearing the codes seems to have removed the low coolant error, at least for now.
Thanks for all the advice guys. Much appreciated.
#9
I have about 5 or 10 JLM21323 Modules with DTC C1095 in my stacks of parts. You can swap one out to keep the CAN bus intact while your original is out for repair or you can cut yours open and fix it yourself. I have one that is repaired but I am selling it to another shop in Fort Worth on Monday July 16. I can repair one in the next few days but I have 3 or 4 engine jobs for this next week and will be VERY busy.
You can borrow an old broken one until you get yours back just to have a part in place to drive the car.
I'm 50 miles away though.
bob gauff
You can borrow an old broken one until you get yours back just to have a part in place to drive the car.
I'm 50 miles away though.
bob gauff
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Jag#4 (07-15-2012)
#11
I advised a guy on a forum (maybe this one) years ago about just barely sawing into the case and finish splitting with some screw drivers and he cut 'ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE CASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!' He cut through the metal spacers and most of the components off the board destroying it.
He was then angry with me for suggesting that he attempt the repair and had to purchase a new ABS module for about $1800 USD.
More than a few millimeters into the case and you will need a new module!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BE AWARE.
If you need the part reconfigured to the car I can do that with WDS. I don't know if AutoEnginuity has this capability but Matt has one so he would know.
Sometimes the display says 'WRONG PART FITTED'.
bob gauff
He was then angry with me for suggesting that he attempt the repair and had to purchase a new ABS module for about $1800 USD.
More than a few millimeters into the case and you will need a new module!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BE AWARE.
If you need the part reconfigured to the car I can do that with WDS. I don't know if AutoEnginuity has this capability but Matt has one so he would know.
Sometimes the display says 'WRONG PART FITTED'.
bob gauff
#13
Jag #4
I drilled a 5/8" hole just above the terminals on mine using a drill press. With a drill press you can control the depth of the cut. I was then able to solder both terminals only one was cracked. and plug it with a black plastic plug. total time removing, soldering and reinstalling about one and a half hours. Drilling the hole was less invasive than cutting the module.
I drilled a 5/8" hole just above the terminals on mine using a drill press. With a drill press you can control the depth of the cut. I was then able to solder both terminals only one was cracked. and plug it with a black plastic plug. total time removing, soldering and reinstalling about one and a half hours. Drilling the hole was less invasive than cutting the module.
#15
My biggest question on outsourcing the repair has to do with drivability. Motorman has offered to loan me another module to put in its place during the repair (very generous, thanks). Can I assume that it is not possible to drive without something there? For example, will it disable more than the ABS system? Possibly causing it to go into limp mode or worse?
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#17
#18
It's possible to check the action of the float in the tank without disturbing anything.
Looking down at the tank ... with the nose of the car being the 12 o'clock direction ... if you reach into the tank with your middle finger and feel around at about the 7 o'clock position, you can find the float and tell if it's floating freely.
My particular finger is just long enough to do this; YFMV.
I can't be responsible for any commentary about this technique which may be posted.
Good luck.
#19
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Jag#4 (07-16-2012)