ABS/ASC error was intermittent, but is now constant. Comes on as soon as I switch on key and stays on. Lately the low coolant light has been keeping it company after warmup. I have done the following diagnostics: cleaned wheel sensors, checked wiring at wheels, put a meter on ABS plug to check resistance and it is within range (1.1), and battery is OK (12.67 at rest). Plus I have done a hard reset multiple times.

Maybe unrelated, but I have a new (90-days old) temp sensor in the overflow tank and plenty of coolant in the system, with no visible leaks.

Based on what I have read here on the forum, my next step should be to open up the ABS module and see if it needs a solder job. I was ready to do that, but cannot find an E5 torx socket anywhere today.

Am I on the right track here or have I missed something? And what brilliant Jag engineer decided undersized external torx bolts were a good idea?

 

You missed checking the brake switch. My bet is on that. Does your cruise control work? On the low coolant llight...Check your fluid level in when the car is warmed up. If it's OK then you may have a problem with the wiring to the switch or maybe the switch has gone bad.

 

Will have to test the cruise control. Not sure if it works now or not. I will also double check coolant tomorrow when the car has been warmed up.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

I suggest having the codes read. Messing with the ABS is an expensive guess job with no codes. I had the same issue, it was a bad left front ABS sensor.

 

None of the parts places (Autozone, etc.) could read the ABS codes and I haven't justified the cost for myself yet. Maybe I can get an indie place to read them for a reasonable cost.

Don't think I'm gonna get this fixed this weekend anyway.

 

Jag#4, if you want to drop down this way, I've got my AutoEnginuity back, and can read your ABS codes for you. I'm in N Fort Worth, may be in N Richland Hills tomorrow (Sunday) lounging at a pool. try my cell (Two-one4-7seven3-29sixsix) if you want to come by. I'll put the AE and laptop in the boot, just in case.

 

Regarding the low coolant, there is a magnetic level float inside the tank which is a separate part from the sensor outside. They tend to attract grit and get stuck. I'll bet that is your problem. Removing the tank and giving it a good flush may solve it.

There are a few posts on this subject.

 

Based on a reading from an AutoEnginuity scan tool provided by H2Oboy (many, many thanks Matt), it appears my issue is indeed the ABS module. So now I just need to find an E5 socket to remove it. I'll update this thread when I get the module repaired and put back in.

Clearing the codes seems to have removed the low coolant error, at least for now.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Much appreciated.

 

I have about 5 or 10 JLM21323 Modules with DTC C1095 in my stacks of parts. You can swap one out to keep the CAN bus intact while your original is out for repair or you can cut yours open and fix it yourself. I have one that is repaired but I am selling it to another shop in Fort Worth on Monday July 16. I can repair one in the next few days but I have 3 or 4 engine jobs for this next week and will be VERY busy.

You can borrow an old broken one until you get yours back just to have a part in place to drive the car.

I'm 50 miles away though.

bob gauff

 

Motorman,

A very kind offer. I might take you up on that, but let me see how it goes here first. Assuming I don't hack it in two and ruin the PC board, this looks like a fix I can do. (how often have we heard this?)

After all, it's not Lucas...how bad can it be?

 

I advised a guy on a forum (maybe this one) years ago about just barely sawing into the case and finish splitting with some screw drivers and he cut 'ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE CASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!' He cut through the metal spacers and most of the components off the board destroying it.
He was then angry with me for suggesting that he attempt the repair and had to purchase a new ABS module for about $1800 USD.

More than a few millimeters into the case and you will need a new module!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BE AWARE.

If you need the part reconfigured to the car I can do that with WDS. I don't know if AutoEnginuity has this capability but Matt has one so he would know.

Sometimes the display says 'WRONG PART FITTED'.

bob gauff

 

OK, now you have my attention.

I will give this some more thought and look into having this module repaired by someone who knows how to do it. Or maybe I can swap my bad module for one of your repaired units? Can I afford it?

Big logistics problem is that this is my everyday drive.

 

Jag #4
I drilled a 5/8" hole just above the terminals on mine using a drill press. With a drill press you can control the depth of the cut. I was then able to solder both terminals only one was cracked. and plug it with a black plastic plug. total time removing, soldering and reinstalling about one and a half hours. Drilling the hole was less invasive than cutting the module.

 

If repair is an option then try ASI - - www.autoecu.com I used them for my TB rebuild.

 

My biggest question on outsourcing the repair has to do with drivability. Motorman has offered to loan me another module to put in its place during the repair (very generous, thanks). Can I assume that it is not possible to drive without something there? For example, will it disable more than the ABS system? Possibly causing it to go into limp mode or worse?

 

The turnaround time on my TB was less than a week and I think you can also put a rush on it but it will cost you.

Note: you could call them and see if they have a rebuilt one and use yours as an exchange when it is replaced.

 

I think the CAN will have a stroke if you try to run without the ABS module.
RJ______________
97 XK8 Conv. 85K mi

 

On this low-coolant thing ...

It's possible to check the action of the float in the tank without disturbing anything.

Looking down at the tank ... with the nose of the car being the 12 o'clock direction ... if you reach into the tank with your middle finger and feel around at about the 7 o'clock position, you can find the float and tell if it's floating freely.

My particular finger is just long enough to do this; YFMV.

I can't be responsible for any commentary about this technique which may be posted.

Good luck.

 

People have reported operating the car without the ABS module but I have never tried it.
The module is on the CAN bus with the ECM and TCM so it is important but.......

I'll try to fix one this week.

bob gauff

 

Don't forget it seems essential to disconnect the battery ground before removing the module and reconnect after re-installation.