Okay, rules out unprogrammed/differently programmed module from vendor.

Since wiring problems with CAN continuity would likely make codes, first stop is probably power to the module (and/or resoldering the usual connectors?), but that may be okay (?) because no module response at all or intermittent response would make codes.

I think it gets messier beyond this. With no codes, seems like either the ABS isn't sending something to the INST (instrument panel) or the ECM, or INST or ECM is not receiving. What that is is unclear (at least to me) without codes.

Added: Rereading, perhaps power is a good place to start, just checking the voltage arriving at the module.

 

In addition, make sure that you back probe your voltage check. Otherwise you may be reading 12 volt at the module instead of a true voltage division of the module and a faulty voltage drop across any connections back to the 12v source. I had this problem a few years ago with the TCM module. (YouTube has several videos on back probing vs front probing)

 

I go along with fmertz's first suggestion and question voltage AND charge on the battery. Don't assume a clean, new battery is jam packed with juice, especially in cold weather.

1 - take a couple minutes and remove the battery cables,

2 - attach a battery charger to the battery while you go down the todo list,

3 - clean the battery terminals (new ones ought to be pretty shiny already) and inside your 23 year old battery clamps with a wire brush. The interface between clamps and terminals is too often taken for granted and creates a significant voltage drop. If the cap screws bolting the ground cables to the chassis look dingy and corroded, take a few minutes to remove them, wire brush the ground lugs and sheet metal, then reattach.

4 - while battery cables are disconnected, touch them together for about 10 seconds to do a hard reset,

5 - reattach the cables to the battery and reattach the charger,

6 - if the charger reads 10 amps or less, start the car, WITH charger hooked up,

7 - disconnect the charger, close the trunk, and enjoy a pleasant test drive likely without fault messages.

8 - report back your results!

 

OK here is what I have tried so far;
Yesterday I inspected and cleaned the rear ABS sensors after I was wondering what could I have done to cause this; as sometimes things just break but often things break after I have touched them! The last thing I touched near the ABS system was greasing the UJs. Sure enough they were coated in some grease/dirt, after I cleaned them I did a hard reset but the ABS light and warning messages were still there.

So today I checked the volts at the ABS module plug; 12.5v with ignition on, 14v with engine running. I cannot do much more now as we in middle of storm (I had to prop the bonnet open with piece of 3"x2" to check the voltage)
I'm confidant it is not the battery; I cleaned up the battery terminals when I fitted the new battery. Before xmas when the issue started if the car was not in use it was being stored in building we hired at work were I made the most of the free electricity and left the battery connected to the charger/maintainer. Since Xmas the car is at home now but I still connect up charger/maintainer for 24-48hrs once a week/fortnight.

 

Sympathize, broke the gas cap cover latch with vibrations from my polisher yesterday. Twenty year old plastic.

In any case, based on the technology that the ABS sensors use(Hall effect), I'm not sure that the amount of cleaning of the speed sensors that was discussed around this forum in the past does much of anything unless one ran the car through a deep pile of sticky fragmented magnets. Even then, probably doesn't interfere with the operation of the sensors. They can get dirty, by design. The wires/connector are not fully adequate after 20 years (two of three of mine, left front), but that's easily repaired and shows up in the codes.

 

I still have not resolved this my next step was to try and find another ABS module to try but cannot find a matching secondhand unit. So my next question; is there any compatibility between the different ABS modules? Mine is an LNF2210AH, all those available end in either AB,AD or AC.

 

The part # on the module itself seems to be the OEM one, and isn't in the Jaguar documentation. See this post of motorcarman's:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2190223

Does the ABS light appear during the car's self-checks or when driving? That may help to determine if it's a dynamic (i.e. thrown when driving) error or not. When I got the issue it would appear before start-up, although my ELM clone didn't catch the C1095 which would likely have been thrown.

 

From memory, with ignition the on the the ABS light is on and no warning message, when the engines has started the ABS remains on and the warning messages appear.

 

From my experience, even with the same reference, there are non told difference between a N/A et SC ABS module.
So look after the correct reference and be sure of the engine it comes from

 

I agree 100% with getting a scan that can read ABS codes. After throwing parts and time guessing the my ABS problems a code reader pinpointed the problem which turned out to be a bad cable.

 

What code reader do you use?

 

I got one of these -


The garages around here charge more than the cost of one of these just to put a reader on the car and do a "diagnosis".

Oh wait a second, I see you have a 1997 model - this may not be the option for you.

 

Try this. Plug your OBDII reader in and drive the car until the ABS light comes up then check your reader and see if it captured the code. At times a temporary code will not set a hard code. I have had luck with this procedure.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

There is definitely a compatibility issue with the software on the different ABS modules.

crbass and I collaborated to find out one of my early ABS problems was that i had the wrong software on the right model # module. I was able to swap it out for another module of the same model #, that had the correct software, and that resolved the issue that I had at the time.
That alone proves that they are definitely not just compatible. At bare minimum you would need to have the module reprogrammed to the correct software for your car. I am not sure of the rules that governs what hardware accepts what programming.