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Sway bar bushings change, can it be done from underneath?

XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Sway bar bushings change, can it be done from underneath?

 
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Old 02-27-2019, 06:45 PM
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Default Sway bar bushings change, can it be done from underneath?

As the title says ...
I know of the way to use extensions to attack them from the top, but I can't find those long extensions here (yeah, they make them all here, but it seems they are all shipped to the USA .
So, can I reach those bolts from underneath, or is it a case of "I can see them, but no way I can reach them'?
Any input appreciated.
 
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:56 PM
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There really is no way to remove the bolts from underneath. Maneuvering a wrench or a ratchet from underneath is next to impossible. By removing the intake air box, you can get to the passenger side sway bar bush easily. A short, about 15 centimeter long extension with a ratchet should do it. I think the bolt is a 10 or 12 mm. The driver's side is impossible to get to without about a 50 centimeter (maybe slightly less) long extension. To make your life easier, you will want to disconnect the sway bar links before attempting the bushes.

If you can't source any local ones, what about online from ebay or amazon?
 
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:59 PM
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You can get to them through the wheelarch too.
 
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Old 02-27-2019, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by giandanielxk8 View Post
There really is no way to remove the bolts from underneath
Originally Posted by woox4 View Post
You can get to them through the wheelarch too.
Hahaha, that totally answers my question ...
I guess I will follow woox4, then, if I fail, give it an other try on Monday to get those extensions.
Thanks guys!
 
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Old 02-28-2019, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ericjansen View Post
Hahaha, that totally answers my question ...
I guess I will follow woox4, then, if I fail, give it an other try on Monday to get those extensions.
Thanks guys!
When I did mine I looked at getting to the bolts from the wheel arches - there is a gap just big enough to get a spanner in and then painstakingly undo the bolt. I have no idea how you could get the bolt back in again. In contrast, if you take the airbox out you have masses of room to work with from above which makes it so easy on that side, and on the other its tight, but straightforward.

If it was me, I would buy or make an extension rather than try and do it from the wheel arches.
 
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Old 02-28-2019, 04:29 AM
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Well, it is doable I think, although tight.
Still, I failed; 3 of the 4 bolts are so tight that I can't break them loose, no space for momentum, and the last thing I want is to round them off.

So instead, with the liners out, I cleaned up and redid the monkey work the paint shop did for the previous owner.
Cleaned the glass of the fog lights, fixed the adjusters, reinstalled the cap on one of the wing reservoirs, organised wires, and some more.
So not all in vain, but gonne buy some extra tools .

To be continued ...
 
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ericjansen View Post
Well, it is doable I think, although tight.
Still, I failed; 3 of the 4 bolts are so tight that I can't break them loose, no space for momentum, and the last thing I want is to round them off.

So instead, with the liners out, I cleaned up and redid the monkey work the paint shop did for the previous owner.
Cleaned the glass of the fog lights, fixed the adjusters, reinstalled the cap on one of the wing reservoirs, organised wires, and some more.
So not all in vain, but gonne buy some extra tools .

To be continued ...


Wow, you work fast. From the time I decide to do something until it actually gets done, months go by. It would be less if I had more spare time, but I digress. I remember trying it through the liner as well I found that getting any purchase on the bolts was nigh on impossible.
 
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:45 AM
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See if this helps.

Link to bushing replacement http://www.jagrepair.com/StabilizerBushingReplacement1999xk8.htm

Gus
www.jagrepair.com
 
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Old 02-28-2019, 08:12 AM
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The LHS clamp is obstructed by the trans cooler lines. I couldn't get straight enough on the forward one from the top with an extension, so managed with a ring spanner from underneath. It was a faff, but fortunately the bolt came out OK.

Definitely disconnect the drop links as giandaniel suggests as that allows the front of the bar to be moved out of the way.
 
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Old 02-28-2019, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelh View Post
The LHS clamp is obstructed by the trans cooler lines. I couldn't get straight enough on the forward one from the top with an extension, so managed with a ring spanner from underneath. It was a faff, but fortunately the bolt came out OK.

Definitely disconnect the drop links as giandaniel suggests as that allows the front of the bar to be moved out of the way.
I only took one of the lhs ones out - I left the other in place but loose as I didn't think I'd ever get the damn thing back in again otherwise.
 
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Old 02-28-2019, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Gus View Post
Yup, that's the way I will attack it next week, thank you.
I soaked the bolts in penetration oil, so that will hopefully help as well if I start again.
I can see the old rubber bushes partially sticking out, they seemed pancaked, so it needs to be done, one way or an other.
 
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:39 AM
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Doing this over the weekend. Good information.
 
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by R3Wood View Post
Doing this over the weekend. Good information.
I finished this just yesterday, and was happy to have the car on a lift.
I can see how you can do everything from the top, but I did most on the driver side from underneath.
Had to push the bar significantly forward to get the front bolt in.
Good luck.
 
 
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