Sway bar bushing/sway bar end link job?
I have new sway bar bushings and the sway bar end links to put on my 03 XK8 car. In what order to I install them? Do the bushings first? take off end links, do bushings then put on new end links?
I have read here conflicting info on which way my OEM replacement bushings should face when installed?
I have read here conflicting info on which way my OEM replacement bushings should face when installed?
According to the manual apply Castrol NTR grease to the inner surface only and install with the split facing aft. I didn't use grease because I didn't have the NTR, whatever that is, and I believe petroleum grease will damage the bushings.
It's easier to replace the bushings if you disconnect the links.
It's easier to replace the bushings if you disconnect the links.
Can I take off the end links once I have new bushings installed? Can I put the sway bar back together with new parts then put on end links?
My bushings have a groove inside of them, I assume fit around something on the bar?
Aft is pointing to the back of car.
My bushings have a groove inside of them, I assume fit around something on the bar?
Aft is pointing to the back of car.
Tim,
Answer #4: Yes the sway bar link installations can before or after the inner bushing. All I would ensure for these end links is both wheels off the ground. Good luck with the job.
My opinion on #5: Can't see how a gob would hurt. This is not in a position where a little dirt, captured in the grease, can cause a problem. If it drips out it just drops on the ground right? Well I'm obviously thinking out loud and will defer to anyone with more knowledge than me. Hope this helps though.
Answer #4: Yes the sway bar link installations can before or after the inner bushing. All I would ensure for these end links is both wheels off the ground. Good luck with the job.
My opinion on #5: Can't see how a gob would hurt. This is not in a position where a little dirt, captured in the grease, can cause a problem. If it drips out it just drops on the ground right? Well I'm obviously thinking out loud and will defer to anyone with more knowledge than me. Hope this helps though.
Last edited by Johnken; Oct 20, 2015 at 08:55 PM. Reason: typo
Did mine last weekend. Jack and axle stand both sides and disconnect the links, makes the sway bar bushes much easier as you can move the sway bar around with the links off.
Rightly or wrongly, I used copper grease on the bar bushes as Castrol NTR doesn't seem to be available. I wasn't shy with it.
You'll find that the left hand side of the sway bay has a raised portion, this fits into the bush groove to position the sway bar correctly. RH side of the sway bar is smooth.
Rightly or wrongly, I used copper grease on the bar bushes as Castrol NTR doesn't seem to be available. I wasn't shy with it.
You'll find that the left hand side of the sway bay has a raised portion, this fits into the bush groove to position the sway bar correctly. RH side of the sway bar is smooth.
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Tried google yesterday and came up with substitute. Others suggested silicone o -ring or brake type lube, just not petroleum based . Could use a silicone spray lube but the grease type would probably better. Poly bushing usually come with a silicone lube. We have to source our own :-)
Gents,
Dow Corning MolyKote 55M grease, a silicone O-Ring lubricant.
The price is sort of jaw-dropping, but one tube lasts a long time and the product gets nothing but rave reviews.
Dow Corning MolyKote 55M grease, a silicone O-Ring lubricant.
The price is sort of jaw-dropping, but one tube lasts a long time and the product gets nothing but rave reviews.
Last edited by Dennis07; Oct 21, 2015 at 02:49 PM.
There is no stop or anything on the left-to-right position of the bar. You have to use your best judgement and center it. I checked the clearance of the bar on both sides, and made sure I had similar gaps from the cross member. From memory, the gap I checked is at the first bend in the bar from the end, so pretty near the end links. If everything is right in the universe, that position should be the same as if you measured the center-line of the bar and lined it up with the center-line of the car, mid point between the bushings. Good luck.
In the off chance that the bar if already too far off center as it is, and bumps in the cross member today, I would visually center it instead. Could do both, I guess. The bar is clearly visible from under the car, this part is not difficult.
From memory, it would have to be off center by more than a couple of inches to hit anything. My point is that, from under the car, you can tell where the bar would hit the cross member. As long as you make sure the gap on the left side is the same as on the right side, the bar is "centered".
So I should pull off the bushins and end links that I am replacing, put on the new bushings and hand tighten them on, then put on end links, hand tighten them then put car on ground then torque all bolts to spec?








