I experienced this a month or two ago and thought I had it fixed with a new part throttle breather hose. If I punch the throttle while the car is moving slowly, or at rest, it feels like it almost stalls (not enough fuel?), goes into Restricted Performance mode for less than a minute, then re-sets to normal. The only code, which has been there for several weeks, is P1111. As I recall, that one has something to do with the emission components not reaching the right temperature, and will supposedly go away on its own. When driving at around 50 or higher, floor the gas and it revs to the limit and runs great.

I'm planning to check fuel pressure at the rail (can anyone recommend an inexpensive one that works on our cars?), but I'm feeling it's more likely something electronic, and we all know how much fun those gremlins are to track down.

Any suggestions for a course of action would be greatly appreciated.

 

Harbor Freight has a fuel pressure test set for a reasonable price, but like you said it's probably not the problem. I would suspect the TPS or throttle body.

 

The TPS sounds likely, and hopefully I'll get a few more comments pointing in that direction. Because of the abruptness when it happens, it would seem to be more electrical/electronic than fuel.

Harbor Freight has two fuel injection pressure testers; one for about $ 20 that they specifically state is not for Bosch systems, and a $ 90.00 kit looks like it might be compatible, but got some poor user ratings. Probably worth spending a little more and getting a better quality name brand kit, if it looks like it's necessary to buy one.

 

Stop.

Have your codes scanned again.

If you are getting a code saying your emission components are not reaching the operating temp (COOLANT TEMP, O2 SENSOR HEATER/COMPONENT),

your car is operating in closed loop, and the likely culprit is a failed O2 sensor or Electronic Coolant Temperature Sensor or bad ground from the chassis to transmission or frame to battery in trunk, or bad battery itself


We need that code

 

I had weird shifting and other tranny issues that "seemed" to have been cured by cleaning my grounds and battery terminals.

Having an electronic tranny really makes problem identification difficult, but that paradigm is here to stay. Might as well get used to it.

Good luck - Jim

 

The code I'm getting is a pending P1111. I've been getting this code for a month or two; always shown as pending. I'm using a Bluetooth plug-in and the Torque program on my phone which I assumed was reasonably thorough. I would consider getting a better scanner if I thought it could track this down. The fact that it's intermittent and temporary isn't helping any (but at least it's driveable, so far).

 

Max,
The P1111 code means your system is ok and has passed its self test, it is nothing to worry about.

If you look in the stickies you should be able to find the generic codes and meanings.

Hope this helps,

Jim.

 

Thanks Jim,

That was my initial understanding of that code, but was told that it should turn into P1000 indicating all is well. In any case, I've the P1111 code since I bought the car, and the intermittent problem for only about two months.

 

If you have had the battery disconnected for any length of time then the P1000 will come up as the car needs to relearn. Once all is ok you then get the P1111 code and that will stay there all the time unless something goes wrong.

Jim.

 

Thanks for the clarification. The very first time the problem happened it kicked codes for lean left and right banks, but since then, nothing. Guess I'll clean the throttle body, clean the air intake hose, clean the MAF, and all of the connections associated with those components. Of course, the power of prayer can't be underestimated.