Thinking I was doing the right thing, and also trying to beat the June 30 deadline, I took my car (’97, 29K miles, 3 month ownership) to the local dealership (70 miles!) to have recall S514 done for the throttle body. A couple days later they told me the software “wouldn’t take” and that they had to order the “correct version”, but they didn’t know when it would arrive. Rather than have my car sit there while I waited for who knows how long, I decided to bring it home. I didn’t get more than 2 miles from the dealership when the car went into “engine fault, poor vehicle performance” mode, and felt like it was running on about 2 cylinders. I should have turned around and gone back to the dealer, but because of the distance I had no choice but to press on. The car went in and out of this mode numerous times, but mostly ran like crap. I finally made it home, but I have the yellow light, the red light, and the check engine light on. It stalled many times just as I would step on the gas after a stop. Sometimes it would even crank ON ITS OWN after the stall!

I called the dealer on the way home to ask them what the heck they did to my car, but they plead ignorance and told me it was running fine; whatever they did should not have had any adverse affects. The next day I pulled the following codes: P0351, P0354, P0356, P0357, and P1367. I read on this INVALUABLE forum that these have to do with one ignition module and 4 plug coils, or the ECM. I also read here that perhaps a hard reset MIGHT solve the problem. I did this, too, and got the same codes with the addition of P1609. I did another hard reset, this time only to get the first 5 codes again, no P1609.

So, my question is, did the dealer somehow kill my ECM when they attempted to update the software? If so, how do I prove this so that they make this right? As of now, they said they would “check it out” but they are not willing to pay for or even arrange to have my car towed. I'm aware of the high failure rate of the ECM of '97s. Is this just coincidence?

What should I do? I know I can trust the vast knowledge & experience you fellow forum members have, and am very eager to hear from you!

John

 

First, in hindsight, I would have turned back around and taken it back...quicker returning it the better. however, now that isn't possible. I would still return the car back to them, they severely messed up the the reflash, and you should be stern about its condition upon arrival...and now, but allow them the chance to make it right first. A call to the service manager calmly explaining what happened, and what your plans are to return. Perhaps he'll make sure your car is given a high priority to repair. You might ask for a loaner while it is in...couldn't hurt.

how you get it there, I don't know, sorry. If it is driveable make the trip, perhaps really early as to avoid traffic...i dunno.

The situation bites. I would be extremely upset, however, optimistic.

 

Thanks, H20. Yeah, I know I should have gone back right as it happened, but my wife was long gone by the time I got the car, and since the dealer is 70 miles away......

I will be speaking to them again today, as you suggest. Apparently they got the correct re-flash software in now. But I don't have a warm and fuzzy fealing about these guys. How could they have screwed this up? Isn't a re-flash a fairly simple process?

 

Would one of our tech members please provide the step-by-step process for a ECM re-flash? I would be helpful for me to know this before I speak to the dealer. Thanks!

 

SPIJohn, If you're talking about the driving process for a new ECM to learn on, i've seen it somewhere in the forums. I am pretty sure it was the XK8/XKR area, but can't put my finger on it right now. If you search for ECM and/or reflash, you may get lucky and find it.

If you're talking about what the dealer does to reflash the system, i think it is a simple connection to their computer system (IDS i think they call it) and upload the software that way. It didn't sound too difficult.

 

Yes, I'm talking about what steps the dealer mechanic takes to reflash the system. I'm suspiscious because when I got my car back, the radio pre-sets were gone and the door windows needed re-programming; this tells me they disconnected the battery for some reason. Indeed, the trunk floor wasn't even put back properly. Is disconnecting the battery one of the steps in the reflash process, or did they do this in an attempt to correct the probelms I'm seeing now?

 

Not sure what the actual procedure is, maybe one of our techs can see the thread and answer that.

As for the boot floor, if you didn't know (and I didn't either) that center panel can be placed in the flat (even w/sides) position, or lowered (angled back toward the gas tank). Brutal (one of our techs) said he often liked to lower it for his customers as a suprise when they went back there again. Most don't even know it is designed for the two different levels.

 

Hi guys,
The two different positions are to accommodate either a regular spare tire, or the smaller temporary spare. The floor piece can be pushed down into the lower position if the smaller spare is beneath it. I wish that I could say that I figured it out on my own, but I'm pretty sure that I read it in the Owner's Manual.
Brian

 

Trying to revive this tread as I have the same error codes on my 97XK...any guesses from anyone? 0351, 0354, 0356, 0357. I have replaced the coils packs on the plugs, the coil on the firewall, cleaned all connections at the computer, replaced both knock sensors...and am still getting a rough running, low power, engine that eventually puts up a restricted performance error. Any suggestions out there? Almost sure it is a wiring issue as it seems to drop out as the engine reves up...but not always. The battery is good and fully charged. Has anyone had problems with the connector block behind the engine that feeds the wiring harness to the engine? I have not taken that apart and cleaned as it seems like it would be a bear but am willing at this point to do just about anything....

 

As it turned out, my problem wasn't the ignition coils, the ign. modules, or the wiring; I painstakenly checked all of that. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that it might be the engine ECU. Having some electronics manufactuing in my background, I pulled the ECU and opened it up (no more warranty, so who cares?). I was astonished to find what appeared to be an electrolyic capacitor that had leaked goo onto the cicuit board, and shorted-out several traces. So I put the ECU back together, found a company that rebuilds/repairs them for just under $400, and sent it to them. Got it back about a week later and, low and behold, my car ran perfectly again! I have a picture of the leaking cap which I will try to post tomorrow.

What you need to be aware of is that in model year '97, there are 3 different ECUs, depending on your VIN, and THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE! So make sure the part number is the same if you decide instead to shop for a salvage unit. The company I worked with will check out your ECU for (I think) $50, not including the shipping, and tell you if it's okay and if it's repairable.

Hope this helps!

 

Well, that's some good information, thanks for the update.

 

Wow...will take that ECU apart tonight and check it out. I have seen these rebuild services but never knew exactly what they acomplished. Thanks for the update and I will post back my findings as well. Interestingly, I have cleaned all of the connections to the ECU and refitted the connectors multiple times sometimes thinking I had solved the problem off and on...but alas it only returned...I may have been shifting the ECU enough that "sort of" fixed the trace/component problem for an instant...interestingly the problem does appear to have gotten worse so I am really hoping for this failure mode as i am really at my wits end...

 

Here is the photo I promised. If I remember correctly, this component is located in the general area of electrical connector number EM10. Your ECU may be different if is not the same part no. as mine, LJA1410AN.

 

Firstly ... saving grace is that it isn't SMT .. Surface Mount Technology .. excellent pic. Perhaps consider repairing it yourself .. if the cap is the only problem, save alot of money.

With a Q-tip .. clean of the yukk so you can see the traces .. rubbing alcohol should not bother the green solder mask .. do they look intact? .. you can check continuity with a high impedance ohmeter judisiously using sharp points, after completely dis-connecting from vehicle.

The cap is certainly suspect ... age and engine heat. If the traces have continuity, mabe just replace the cap .. a couple bucks and a little time with a soldering pencil. Just make sure the MFD is the same .. the voltage equal or higher than the oem, and note the polarity when replacing it.

If the traces are cau-cau .. it's the rebuilders problem :-)

 

Very good info, attaboy!

The reasons I went the rebuilder route are because of their experience with XK8 ECUs, their warranty (3 yrs on mine, others are lifetime), and the fact that they not only replace the failed component, they also replace all other known problematic components within the ECU. I thought that was a pretty good deal for the $$$.

 

what is the name of the rebuilder and location??

 

So my 97 XK8 has 3 ECM's, computers running it?????????????

 

Yes, would you share who you used?

I have been told that C1095 means that my ECM is on the blink (2001 XK8). I tried contacting an outfit here in Houston that rebuilds them (they had a really informative website), but still haven't received a response, so I'm guessing they are out of business.

In the meantime, I'm still driving her, but only for short trips so I can be rescued if it gives out.

 

brgjag: No, you have only one ECU. What I was saying is that during MY97, Jaguar changed the ECU twice, thus yours could be one of three differant ECUs. You VIN determines which one of those three you will have.

The rebuilder I used is Auto & Truck Electronics. Here's their website: www.autoecu.com. They post their services on ebay all the time. Get your part number from the module and call them first before you send the module. Incidently, they rebuild lots of other automotive electronic modules, too.

John

 

OK...ecu has been rebuilt with new caps...not for the faint of heart. I will try out tonight and see if I got it whipped. I replaced all of the electrolytic capacitors of the board as I had several leaking and figured may as well...my nerves are shot tho. They are awful to get off without destroying the board...but somewhat possible. I replaced 7 caps for a total cost of about 2 bucks. The traces although discolored in a few places did not appear to be broken or eaten through. In fact I would venture a guess that the goo from the caps although maybe bad for the circuit board finish may not eat the copper...but not for sure. I would suggest that anyone that is feeling frisky that they try to cut the existing caps at their base where possible and pigtail new cap into existing stub (not possible for large one) to avoid the possibility of destroying the board...which is very easy to do. Will report back tomorrow if it works in car tonight.