ASC fault cured
Hi everyone.
I have been reading all the posts on ASC. There has been lots of helpful directions and tests. All to no avail. I thank all for their posts.
My problem: Slight surging when in Cruise Control. Not enough to move the speedometer or tachometer just an awareness of surges. Then as driving, in Cruise Control or normal, ASC and amber light. Car goes to Fail Safe. Fault goes off and car accelerates again. Repeats randomly.
Codes: Codes from 'Gearbox ratio wrong' to C1165. This last code is for faulty RH rear speed sensor or wiring.
FIX:I removed the RH rear wheel and inspected and tested the sensor and wiring. All ok. Wondered how clean the sensor ring was. Put a flat blade screwdriver down the sensor hole to check for dirt.
The sensor ring was loose.
Removed hub bearing nut and lowered hub out of drive shaft. Ring was worn on center hole. Ran small bead of weld on center hole and ground to a tight fit. Re assembled drive shaft and hub. Test drove all ok so far.
Question: What should the torque setting be on the hub main nut be.
Thanks.
I have been reading all the posts on ASC. There has been lots of helpful directions and tests. All to no avail. I thank all for their posts.
My problem: Slight surging when in Cruise Control. Not enough to move the speedometer or tachometer just an awareness of surges. Then as driving, in Cruise Control or normal, ASC and amber light. Car goes to Fail Safe. Fault goes off and car accelerates again. Repeats randomly.
Codes: Codes from 'Gearbox ratio wrong' to C1165. This last code is for faulty RH rear speed sensor or wiring.
FIX:I removed the RH rear wheel and inspected and tested the sensor and wiring. All ok. Wondered how clean the sensor ring was. Put a flat blade screwdriver down the sensor hole to check for dirt.
The sensor ring was loose.
Removed hub bearing nut and lowered hub out of drive shaft. Ring was worn on center hole. Ran small bead of weld on center hole and ground to a tight fit. Re assembled drive shaft and hub. Test drove all ok so far.
Question: What should the torque setting be on the hub main nut be.
Thanks.
Hi everyone.
I have been reading all the posts on ASC. There has been lots of helpful directions and tests. All to no avail. I thank all for their posts.
My problem: Slight surging when in Cruise Control. Not enough to move the speedometer or tachometer just an awareness of surges. Then as driving, in Cruise Control or normal, ASC and amber light. Car goes to Fail Safe. Fault goes off and car accelerates again. Repeats randomly.
Codes: Codes from 'Gearbox ratio wrong' to C1165. This last code is for faulty RH rear speed sensor or wiring.
FIX:I removed the RH rear wheel and inspected and tested the sensor and wiring. All ok. Wondered how clean the sensor ring was. Put a flat blade screwdriver down the sensor hole to check for dirt.
The sensor ring was loose.
Removed hub bearing nut and lowered hub out of drive shaft. Ring was worn on center hole. Ran small bead of weld on center hole and ground to a tight fit. Re assembled drive shaft and hub. Test drove all ok so far.
Question: What should the torque setting be on the hub main nut be.
Thanks.
I have been reading all the posts on ASC. There has been lots of helpful directions and tests. All to no avail. I thank all for their posts.
My problem: Slight surging when in Cruise Control. Not enough to move the speedometer or tachometer just an awareness of surges. Then as driving, in Cruise Control or normal, ASC and amber light. Car goes to Fail Safe. Fault goes off and car accelerates again. Repeats randomly.
Codes: Codes from 'Gearbox ratio wrong' to C1165. This last code is for faulty RH rear speed sensor or wiring.
FIX:I removed the RH rear wheel and inspected and tested the sensor and wiring. All ok. Wondered how clean the sensor ring was. Put a flat blade screwdriver down the sensor hole to check for dirt.
The sensor ring was loose.
Removed hub bearing nut and lowered hub out of drive shaft. Ring was worn on center hole. Ran small bead of weld on center hole and ground to a tight fit. Re assembled drive shaft and hub. Test drove all ok so far.
Question: What should the torque setting be on the hub main nut be.
Thanks.
Remember how many ASC failures are due to cracked solder joints inside the ASC control module? Judging by the pictures I've seen of this problem, I'd guess that those oft-cracked solder joints are the power supply for the module's PCB (printed circuit board).
If memory serves (someone please correct me if memory is not serving), the effect of this solder joint failure is the 'ASC not available' and 'TRAC not available' being displayed, and the AMBER warning light illuminating...but nothing else of consequence happens (AFAIK).
Now, it is apparent from this thread and others that a split or loose ABS (reluctor) ring causes a plethora of trouble codes and what appear to be actual transmission failure(s) of some kind...
This has me wondering; could one test (AND temporarily bypass) this scary and confounding problem by disconnecting the plug at the ABS module in the engine compartment?
If so, it would verify that: A) this weird problem is related to the ABS system, and not a transmission (or other) problem, and, b) temporarily banish this problem with only the loss of ABS and traction control, leaving the car completely driveable (BTW, I've never had a car before with either one, so I don't miss them at all).
If memory serves (someone please correct me if memory is not serving), the effect of this solder joint failure is the 'ASC not available' and 'TRAC not available' being displayed, and the AMBER warning light illuminating...but nothing else of consequence happens (AFAIK).
Now, it is apparent from this thread and others that a split or loose ABS (reluctor) ring causes a plethora of trouble codes and what appear to be actual transmission failure(s) of some kind...
This has me wondering; could one test (AND temporarily bypass) this scary and confounding problem by disconnecting the plug at the ABS module in the engine compartment?
If so, it would verify that: A) this weird problem is related to the ABS system, and not a transmission (or other) problem, and, b) temporarily banish this problem with only the loss of ABS and traction control, leaving the car completely driveable (BTW, I've never had a car before with either one, so I don't miss them at all).
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I will disconnect the brake unit and see what happens. My system is working fine. As the unit is on the serial bus I am expecting mass faults. If I connect the serial bus through then at least I expect brake system faults.
As for not needing these systems I am not so sure. Yes being older I have driven sports cars by the seat of my pants. But I like ABS. I like traction control and yes I like ASC. I drive in Florida and during downpours I see the ASC system come on, signaled by ASC message and flashing of the amber lite, the car accelerates away as smooth as on dry roads. Having exciting moments might be appealing to some but I prefer to relax enjoy the ride.
As for not needing these systems I am not so sure. Yes being older I have driven sports cars by the seat of my pants. But I like ABS. I like traction control and yes I like ASC. I drive in Florida and during downpours I see the ASC system come on, signaled by ASC message and flashing of the amber lite, the car accelerates away as smooth as on dry roads. Having exciting moments might be appealing to some but I prefer to relax enjoy the ride.
Gibso,
I thought, from reading post #1, that taking care of the loose ring fixed your problem already? (not including question about the hub main nut). Are all of the trouble codes gone now? If so, there is no need to disconnect the ABS control module for testing purposes. Apologies if I have missed something in the conversation.
We just had a torrential downpour here (I live a couple hours south of you, near West Palm Beach), so I know what you are talking about insofar as driving in heavy rain; in fact, when I was driving back from Naples where I bought my XK8, I ran into rain so heavy I couldn't see 30 feet in front of me on Alligator Alley and had to pull off the road for about 20 minutes until it let up.
However, it wouldn't surprise me if I were one of the most conservative drivers on this forum (or on the road generally). Being older myself (hate saying that), and never having had a car with antilock brakes and traction control myself, I guess I have always "driven by the seat of my pants", but since I drive pretty conservatively anyway, haven't really needed these features too much.
There is no denying that they are practical, or even necessary, for some driving styles. But if, IF, temporarily disabling them will allow the car to be driven 'normally' (but sans ABS and TRAC), and possibly save someone a trip to the Jaguar dealership and/or being towed, well...
It's always good to have options.
I thought, from reading post #1, that taking care of the loose ring fixed your problem already? (not including question about the hub main nut). Are all of the trouble codes gone now? If so, there is no need to disconnect the ABS control module for testing purposes. Apologies if I have missed something in the conversation.
We just had a torrential downpour here (I live a couple hours south of you, near West Palm Beach), so I know what you are talking about insofar as driving in heavy rain; in fact, when I was driving back from Naples where I bought my XK8, I ran into rain so heavy I couldn't see 30 feet in front of me on Alligator Alley and had to pull off the road for about 20 minutes until it let up.
However, it wouldn't surprise me if I were one of the most conservative drivers on this forum (or on the road generally). Being older myself (hate saying that), and never having had a car with antilock brakes and traction control myself, I guess I have always "driven by the seat of my pants", but since I drive pretty conservatively anyway, haven't really needed these features too much.
There is no denying that they are practical, or even necessary, for some driving styles. But if, IF, temporarily disabling them will allow the car to be driven 'normally' (but sans ABS and TRAC), and possibly save someone a trip to the Jaguar dealership and/or being towed, well...
It's always good to have options.
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dmatthewman
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Sep 30, 2015 10:10 AM
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