The actuation on my door locks stopped working. They won't lock/unlock with the key, or the fob. I'm thinking it's wither the fuse or the relay (P/N LNA6705AB?)

Anyone else experience this? Is it a common problem?

I'm new to this forum and to Jaguar.

Any help is appreciated!

 

Before you go pulling fuses and relays, do the doors lock when are inside, close the door, and start her up? (if they work on the inside, its not the key or fob) Among some other gliches, when my doors wouldn't lock with the remote, i did a soft reset by pulling the negative terminal on the battery, wait 5 minutes, then reattach. If your a convertible, the windows will have to be reprogrammed up/down. If the error continues, check battery voltage...low batteries cause lots of problems in these cars. report back when you can. if this doesn't help, you need better advice than what I can provide, and others will be along.

 

Thanks for the reply!

Well...here's the situation. The door locks do not have any automatic actuation at all. Not with the fob, the key in the door,inside "manually" or when you start it and move it out of Park. [:@]

The alarm sets, and the trunk opens, so the key fobs seems to be transmitting.

Oh, yes I checked the 10A fuse that protects the system - it's fine.

There is a hard to reach black micro-relay that drives the actuator for both doors (of course it couldn't be the easy-to-reach one! ) behind the passenger facia. Logically, it could be that. That's a pretty frequently used relay...or am I just talking myself into a solution?

ANyway I'll try a soft reset as you suggest and report back.

Again, thanks for the help!

 

Success!

For the next guy...

This is an easy job, it took me less than an hour.

Check the appropriate 10A fuse in the passenger side fuse box. If blown, replace. Otherwise move on...

Remove negative lead from the battery. Wait 5 minutes and reconnect. This will reboot the computer. Still no lock actuation? Move on...

Disconnect the negative lead on the battery again andreplace the door actuating system relay.

The door locking relay (p/n LNA6705 AB "Micro relay" black) is located behind the passengers lower facia at the far right. Gain access by removing the glove box (easy, just watch for the wires for the interior box light when removing. Only remove the 2 outermost lower hex screws, not all 4).

The relay you want is in a 2-relay holder far outboard behind a larger single relay.(Remove the larger relay for easier access to the 2 relay holder.) Remove the holder from it's locating tab for easier access to the door locking relay itself.The door locking relay is the one serving theYR,YG,B,NR,NR wire set. (N=Brown)

Replace the relay and reinstall the holder on it's tab. Reinsert thelarger relay and reinstall glove box.

Reattach the negative battery terminal.

Re-index windows (for convertible) and reprogram radio as needed...

You can do this!

 

Nice job spurlee! Feels good to fix it yourself, doesn't it? Now, go eat some turkey n mashed pots.

 

H20Boy -

Yes it does.In my view (and contrary to popular belief) modern cars are much easier to work on than the 1970's stuff I wrenched on as a kid or '80's stuff as a young family guy.

Forums like this one build confidence and provide relevant advice from experienced people. That, combined withDVD-based shop manuals that arepractically free,mostly plug 'n play parts, OBDII, internet shoppingand generally improved automotive engineering makes working on modern carsa snap.

I remember raiding junkyards in the winter looking for affordable rear ends, rodding out radiators when there were no replacements after 5 years, fixing 3 year old exhaust systems with coffee cans & bailing wire and cracking open alternators on the kitchen table to get at the voltage regulator...

I'm pretty confident that whatever this XK8 throws at me I can deal with...

 

Thank you for the write up. I just purchased a 2000 XK8 Coupe and this information may come in handy in the future.(I hope I don't have to use it).

 

I wish my locks didn't work. That would be easier to troubleshoot. My locks work, but not the way they are supposed to. For example, both doors lock when in gear and moving, but I cannot unlock when stopped, engine off, key out , whatever. I can pull either handle but they won't unlock. I have to use the key fob. Sometimes, when I try to lock the car with the fob from the outside, only the driver door will lock. The passenger door cycles, then gives up. If I lock with the key, it may work, or not. I could go on, but it is a mess, and intermittent to boot. Any ideas?

 

Harry...if you have not already, try the easiest thing first. Disconnect the battery negative cable and touch it to the positive terminal for a few seconds to reset all the computers. Then reconnect it and see if your problem is solved. Try it a few times if it does not work the first time.

Make sure you reset your windows afterwards by lowering them while seated with the door closed and holding the switches until you hear a click, then raising them and again holding the switches again until you hear a click.

 

Any physical obstruction or binding in the latch-lock mechanism will result in the refusal to lock/unlock with a quick reversal. If you can unplug one side from its power locks, you can at least narrow down which side is at fault.

 

[QUOTE=WhiteXKR;463174]Harry...if you have not already, try the easiest thing first. Disconnect the battery negative cable and touch it to the positive terminal for a few seconds to reset all the computers. Then reconnect it and see if your problem is solved. Try it a few times if it does not work the first time.

Is this what is called a hard reset?? Try a few times? Safe to do????

 

[quote=hemitwist;463435]
Yes this is the 'hard reset'. It is safe to do, just remember that the windows need to be reset (as described in my post), and outside the US, you may need to reenter your radio code.

You may lose the current settings in your radio, climate control, etc., so just return them to where you like them when you are done.

 

Thanks for the reply. I had done that before but I tried it again, this time waiting a full 5 minutes. Then I reprogrammed everything. The locks behaved the same, cycling when use the fob or push in the driver handle. This time however, when I go into reverse or drive, both doors locked without cycling. But, always a but, the fob no longer unlocked them. I pulled on both handles and could not manually unlock the car either. After a number of tugs, the driverside door half unlocked, really. I pulled it back to the closed and then was able to manually unlock all the way. I then tried to see what would happen if I removed the door lock relay fuse from one side at a time. It is the only 25amp fuse in the side facia boxes. That kept the doors from automatically locking, but also stopped the windows from working. No good. I am thinking of trying Exorcism.

 

I will try that. I tried the door lock fuses, but that didn't help isolate the problem, at least I don't think it did. When I pulled the passenger fuse, the driver lock worked manually without any cycling, but neither the fob or the autolock worked on either door, so I couldn't duplicate the problem. Same with the driver side fuse....H

 

If I recall, you had replaced your BCM a few months ago. Did you have this problem after the BCM replacement, or was it working properly for a while?

 

Hmmmmmmm...so what is the problem when my passenger door lock makes all the right sounds (actually, the doors seem to lock-unlock-lock-unlock-lock several times) but the door isn't actually locked. Sometimes I can get it to lock with as combination of using the key in the driver door and using the fob...but never a guarantee.

 

Could you remove your door panel. Watch what is going on each time you use your remote or door switch to lock and unlock your door to find what is at fault?

 

I have considered that and cannot say for sure when this problem occurred. I put in a new BCM, so I hope it isn't that. I cooked the old one using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse, and I have come to think I may have cooked more that the BCM. There are those two processors in the doors that I may have damaged. I need now to try and isolate them to try to figure out if one is bad and which one...H

 

Thanks for the reply hemitwist. I removed the passenger door panel with the help of great info and videos, but all I found was a pristine inside with a clean cable between the inside handle and the latch. Looked like the panel had never been removed since manufacture. I could see nothing that looked at all suspicious when I operated the locks. Same cycling and all. I have discounted the door control modules because when I remove the power from them, the windows don't work. The windows work fine otherwise, so only one circuit in the processor would have to be bad for that to be the problem. Possible, but not likely. That leaves the switches in the latches, but which one? The search continues...My wife's comment..."Get a Life" and it's her car. She doesn't understand.

 

Hi
I was reading your post in regards to you power door lock Issues. I have an 02 XJR with almost the same problems, I was wondering if your fix might work for me.Thanks.