Couple of questions.

Has anyone ever had the problem of their dash board clock running backwards and if they have managed to fix it. If so how?

Also my drivers side rear quarterlight is not closing fully. I have to pull it shut for that last half an inch or so. Does anyone know how to adjust this.

Thanks for your help in advance

 

Great Scott! You must have gotten your car up to 88 MPH!

Couldn't resist. Sorry. I have no help for you.

 

I have been digging into the gauge cluster architecture for the folks that want to replace their nav. unit with gauges and have discovered that the clock appears to be a dual stepper motor driven by a some type of digital device.

I suspect that digital chip is in an invalid state. I would try a hard reset (remove the negative battery terminal and touch it to the positive for a few seconds, then reconnect it) and see if it returns to normal. If not, you likely need a new minor gauge cluster. They appear on ebay from time to time, just make sure to match years and/or part numbers, since apparently there are some different versions.

Bizarre problem indeed

 

Does the gas gauge keep showing More and More Gas also?

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

 

The backwards running clock is just a feature to remind you that you suddenly become more attractive to younger women when you sit in the car.

 

Back to the future!!!

(sorry, i couldn't resist neither)

 

I can resist the urge to make a lame joke, as I'm not lame.

Just take it as a sign that your car is fast, really fast. Faster than plaid, fast.

If you want my suggestion, and I'm sure you don't, go raid a Bentley parts bin and replace your cheap Jaguar clock with a Brietling designed one from a Bentley.

Is your clock analog or digital?

 

You're kidding??? So the clock isn't even really a clock without the computer? Just.... wow.

 

Well, the clock is definitely a dual stepper motor, but it appears the timing circuit that drives it, including the quartz crystal is actually built into the minor gauge cluster...it is not driven from an external computer module.

On the other hand, the voltmeter and oil pressure guages seem to take drive signals form the major gauge cluster and just condition them with some passive components before they drive their respective stepper motors.

My guess on this whole idiotic thing is that they let loose a freshly minted EE on it without a whole lot of guidance.

 

Ha ha ha, very funny!

Yes I have been over 88 mph but dont tell the fuz (aka police), unfortunately the clock going backwards has done nothing to stop my receding hairline or increasing waistline, no unfortunately the fuel gauge still goes the wrong way but it does enable me to bore my passengers to death with Einstein's theory of relativity.

I will try the hard boot and see what happens. Thanks for the advice.

Window still outstanding though!

 

There is a chance (but I'm not betting on it) that the hard boot could fix your window also. Try that first.

 

I have much the same issue and have tried everything without complete success. If you pull apart the back seat and the surround for the rear speaker, you can access adjustors for the the rear window. Using these, I did gain a little improvement. Fiddled with front window too. But no matter what, the rear window never goes where it should on its own power. I use the same method you do to pick up the last 1/4" or so.

This same thing has been reported before, on Roadfly I think, and always on the left side. Go figure.


Obligatory clock joke: If you repaint the dial face, you could have a really cool, correct-reading novelty clock, and could tell people that is normal for British cars.

 

Some people will actually pay good money for this feature:

Backwards Clock - Archie McPhee & Co.

 

Must have something to do with being the drivers side window, mine is on the right side being a UK car.

As for clock, good idea Im off to buy black paint and some white stencils and see what happens!

 

Just a thought, Maybe the clock in your car was built after daylight savings and just doesn't remember when to stop falling back.

Or it was supposed to go into a right hand drive car instead of a left hand drive car or maybe it is trying to regain "It's" youth.

Or it needs to meet an aston Martin clock and see how it's supposed to work.

Or maybe I should just shut up and go away

I too am having clock problems, so I understand how annoying it can be. Hope the reboot works, it can do wonders.

 

?sdrawkcab si yaw hcihw yas ot s'ohw ,yawynA .stniop dooG

 

Perhaps a move to Australia would work? Or is that just toilets?

 

I always get confused when talking about right or left side of the car/engine (sitting in the car and looking forward or standing in front to the car and looking backward?).

Regardless, similar problem I have to yours exists on the passenger side (car is US so that would be the right side while sitting in the car). There is a gap not in-plane but rather out-of-plane (or inboard/outboard if you prefer). I tried alleviating by doing the inboard/outboard adjustment on the front glass but that did not really help much. A local mech concurs that the quarter window is what needs to be adjusted. From looking through JTIS and other posts at this forum, I know there are 2 adjusting nuts for the quarter window, one of which should take care of the inboard/outboard adjustment and I think somebody might have even posted some photos to show roughly where these are.

Normally, the way to get at these would be to tear out the rear seat and the interior trim panel. But what I was wondering if it would be possible to get to these adjusters by just removing the top trim cap (I have a convertible). Has anyone investigated whether or not the adjustment can be done by just removing that one upper trim piece?

Thanks,

Doug

 

As far as the rear quarter window, I have also experienced this, however it seems to be the amount of pressure placed on it from the front window as it's closing. In other words, if I leave the front window down or open the front door as I am closing the roof and the rear window is coming up, it will close to an acceptable place that still seals when I close the front window or shut the door. There may be a little play left that I can pull the window up manually another 1/8-1/4" but there is no need as I get a good enough seal with the rubber stripping. Try leaving the door open when you put up the roof and rear quarter and see if it helps. It did for me.

 

My LR window also didn't fully close without manually tugging it into place. What I found was that the glass had separated from the adhesive attaching it to the regulator channel. I removed the glass, cleaned it and the channel and applied the appropriate adhesive (3m something something.) I set the window into place, closed the front door with its window closed, ensuring correct placement, and allowed it to cure for a day or so - problem solved.