Brake Switch Replacement How-To (W/ Pics) FAQ
I just wanted to put my two cents in on the brake switch replacement. I was going for the record time but had to settle for 30 minutes...only one person though. Is that the solo record?
In case your better half isn't around, or you are like me and tend to @&*(% about the @&*(^**% parts in the most &^$#$* places on the car (I tend to swear a bit, about the only thing I learned from the old man) I used a telescoping magnet on the engine side to grab and hold the switch. Once I confirmed that both bolts were seated I released the brake peddle being held forward by a piece of wood.
As previous posts have said, you are working blind. I had to shimmy in on my back and had a small screwdriver poking through the front most hole as a guide.
B
In case your better half isn't around, or you are like me and tend to @&*(% about the @&*(^**% parts in the most &^$#$* places on the car (I tend to swear a bit, about the only thing I learned from the old man) I used a telescoping magnet on the engine side to grab and hold the switch. Once I confirmed that both bolts were seated I released the brake peddle being held forward by a piece of wood.
As previous posts have said, you are working blind. I had to shimmy in on my back and had a small screwdriver poking through the front most hole as a guide.
B
I used a telescoping magnet on the engine side to grab and hold the switch. Once I confirmed that both bolts were seated I released the brake peddle being held forward by a piece of wood... you are working blind. I had to shimmy in on my back and had a small screwdriver poking through the front most hole as a guide. B
Geees man .. you work better blind than two A++ mechanics !! Well done !!
I received my first 'cruise not available" tonight, but had suspicions the switch was dying a slow death over the last year. Check brake message has been showing up on some startups leaving park. Going to tackle it next weekend w/ the great instructions and many tips from others in the thread. Will report my anticipated success story afterward.
Matt, before you do just try reaching up and grabbing it and moving it a little to one side or the other. When I removed mine for cleaning and reinstalled it the lights were stuck on so I 'tweaked' it a little without removing it and cured that problem. If it works I'll explain my theory, if it doesn't, nothing lost but a couple minutes.
I'm always interested in more pictures and continued guidance Gus, I appreciate the link to your writeup. I just updated my mental library. Hey Beav, I'll try moving the switch a bit...can't hurt to try. I'll drive it another week or two before ordering the part. thanks!
Last edited by H20boy; Jan 22, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
It is impossible for one person but less painful with two people just put the small guy inside. It took us about 20min of which 5 minutes of me refusing to give it up to the smaller guy. Good Luck!
Once I figured out how to get the studs through their holes with the pedal depressed I released the pedal slowly, allowing it to hold the switch in place. Then I grabbed one stud, underhood, with a pair of duckbill pliers while threading a nut on the other.
The cruise control warning was becoming more frequent, so decided to buy a new switch and got it replaced this weekend. Since it was just me (no extra pair of hands to work under the bonnet) I tried Gus's suggestion (see his page with the pics and description) and instead of unbolting the entire mount from the bonnet side, I just loosened the nuts on the switch itself and left the bracket alone - swapped the switch parts only, worked pretty well, but still had to go upside down with the driver seat out of the car to get it R&Rd.
Getting cruise and tail light message for a while. Read Gus's post, pulled the switch using the two nuts at firewall in engine compartment-not too bad until the pressed-on bolts fell out--what a nightmare. Maybe it's actually better to leave the bracket and just pull the switch--frankly any method is difficult. Anyway, cleaned and adjuste switches to no avail--will get another switch. Why no improvement from Jaguar if this has been going on for years? This is an 05.....
I assume the new switch will fix--will post if anyone has interest.
Also, to those thinking of trying this, it is difficult, but not impossible--expect an hour.....for handy types.
I assume the new switch will fix--will post if anyone has interest.
Also, to those thinking of trying this, it is difficult, but not impossible--expect an hour.....for handy types.
Thanks to everyone on the site--great help diagnosing the brake switch was the cause for tail light and cruise warning--it is now fixed. Jaguar of Tampa charged me $99 for the switch--$105.36 with tax--not sure why it was more than others ($70)?. I tried for about an hour to put it in--since I removed and reinstalled the old one in 30 minutes after playing with it last week, I just could not believe I couldn't get the new one in........--so finally I listened to BEAV and removed the seat (4 bolts and 2 connectors)--took 5 minutes after that. Seems all good now--cruise works and no more warnings. If I ever need to replace it again, I think I may just pull the switch and leave the bracket--not sure? Still wonder why Jaguar has not improved this??
Thanks again to all.
Thanks again to all.








