So having scared myself silly reading the posts on failed chain tensioners I really need to find out what mine are like. Trouble is I then scared myself even more having just seen a Youtube video on removing the cam cover! There is no way I have the tools to do this - I know it will just end up FUBAR if I try so have booked the work in to be done by my very trusty mechanic when the MOT is due in July. However, I'd really like to know what's in there before then

So I got to thinking as I only want to inspect the tensioners would it be possible to use one of the portable digital endoscopes like this one NEW 2.4" LCD VIDEO INSPECTION ENDOSCOPE BORESCOPE SNAKE TUBE CAMERA WATERPROOF | eBay inserted either through the oil filler cap or if I removed the "Jaguar" cover plate over the coil packs (I can manage that)?

Or am I just kidding myself

Steve

 

You MAY get a glimpse of one tensioner through the oil filler hole, but you won't be able to see the tensioner on the opposite side. AND, you may scratch your camshafts or otherwise muck something up. I wouldn't try it.

Your best (and only) bet is to get it into the shop as quickly as possible for a proper look.



.

 

The only thing a bore scope is going to tell you is that you have plastic or metal on the right hand side.

There was some discussion about drilling a small hole in the plastic covers and then filling the hole with a screw or other suitable way to keep the oil in but I do not know if anyone actually tried it. The areas that need inspection are the slippers that the chains ride on as they have a nasty habit of coming off and getting caught in the chain. The right side are on the top and the left side are on the bottom of the tensioner bodies. And then the front of the plastic tensioner body. It splits from the bottom up until the piston comes out. You will never be able to see that with a bore scope other than through the suggested holes. You really cannot see it without removing the tensioners even with the covers off.

 

I had wondered the same thing and read a post or two here on the forum without a definitive answer... I am not sure how much clearance there is under the valve cover to finagle the "camera" up to the front to see or how much you would be able to see.

I know that the plastic tensioners DO need to be replaced so I would be more interested in seeing if mine were still the original ones or if they had been upgraded to the steel body. From what they say here it seems that even a visual inspection of the plastic tensioners is not that accurate (i.e. they LOOK fine but then you pull them out and they fall apart in your hands).

If you decide to bite the bullet and give it a try, do share what you find out

 

My thoughts exactly Chris. If I can just get a view of the tensioner - if I see brown plastic that's all I need to know and it's off to the mechanic pronto. If on the other hand I see shiny metal then no need to worry and she can wait until the MOT is due in July for a routine service. It's the not knowing that us OCD types can't handle

I'm tempted to punt a few quid on a 'scope just to see - I'm sure I can find other uses for it.

Steve

 

Doesn't sound OCD to me. Just prudent.

How about this option ... ask your trusted mechanic to pull one cam cover now -- the left is easier, if I remember correctly -- and see what you've got. Should require only ~ 1/2 hour of his time if he knows the cars.

One less thing for him to do at MOT time? And if he finds plastic, well, you would have taken it to him right away anyway, no?

 

Yes - this is the preferred option if the borescope idea comes to nothing.

BTW I was intrigued by your "voltage reduction" soft top closure system. Have just ordered one of these Chassis Mounted Aluminum Shell 100W Watt 0.2 Ohm Wirewound Resistor | eBay

Steve

 

Wow, a pretty green one! We don't see those here in the colonies.

The description includes some classic chinese-english:
Aluminum housing for heat dissipation, suitable for cooling plate installation, can be used in atrocious environment.


(Not to beat a dead horse, but there is some non-zero risk of getting that scope caught on something in trying to navigate it around the tensioner neighborhood.)

 

Just got off the 'phone with my mechanic - getting it booked in next week for check and work as required. I need a wheel bearing and the rear brake pipes replacing anyway so might as well bite the bullet now. I have a sneaky feeling it will turn out to be a good call.
Steve

 

Unless you are qualified in Proctology, the suggested borescope procedure is unlikely to prove easy or conclusive. If you are, then please ensure it is thoroughly cleaned before treating your next patient.

Removing the cam covers isn't difficult and doesn't require an extensive tool kit. I'm interested to see the YouTube video that has you so terrified about tackling this job.

Graham

 

Use endoscopes all the time in my line of work (not proctology I hasten to add - maxillofacial) but I am concerned about getting the thing snagged. This is the vid in question:
Fortunately, the workshop I use has ex-jag main dealer techs on hand - spoke to boss this morning who is going to conflab with them tonight regarding parts to order etc with view to doing next week.
Steve

 

Nothing scary other than someone had been there before and butchered some of the bolt heads. His time for the job was generous but probably greatly extended by making the video.

Are you going for the tensioner change next week or just having an inspection?

Graham

 

If inspection shows old type tensioners then will be replaced at same visit. I can feel you are going to suggest them doing other jobs while the lids are off

 

You don't need any special tools to take the cam covers off. Here is all I think needed to take them off on my 01 XKR (I would think it is a little bit easier on the XK8 without the supercharger):

1/4" drive
1/4" 10mm deep socket
1/4" 10mm standard socket
1/4" 8mm socket
1/4" 7mm socket
3 inch extension
6 inch extension
1/4 inch universal

Everything excpt the universal can be found in common chinese cheap socket sets and the universal is another couple dollars at a hardware store ... at least here in the U.S.

It will go faster if you also have a nut driver, flex extension, electric drill/screwdriver, 3/8 drive and 3/8-to-1/4 but I don't think you would need any of that.

 

Not at all. Tensioners are the priority.

I'm a great believer in routine and preventative maintenance but not in spending money unnecessarily. It must be something about the proximity to Yorkshire that does it!

Graham

 

More like your proximity to Scotland methinks

Steve

 

Just dropped the car into the workshop this morning. Should soon find out type of tensioners fitted - fingers crossed they have been uprated already but if not they will fit new ones and bolts.

 

Sooooo. What was the outcome

 

Original Mk1 tensioners fitted and cracked slipper on one of them! Both tensioners replaced with latest spec ones, oil and filter change, new gaskets and "O" rings £520 - cheap for the peace of mind and increased engine life.

Steve

 

I just purchased an endoscope from Harbor Freight for 70 bucks - and since I have to open up my 2000 XK8 engine, ( peanut butter in my crankcase - oh my ) I am going to poke it into every orifice I can find, and document anything "interesting" ... pics in a day or two, depending upon my Florida weather.