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Car Won't Start (Or will it? Now I'm just griping)

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Old 11-07-2010, 02:18 PM
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Default Car Won't Start (Or will it? Now I'm just griping)

This morning I finally figured out where the fill hole was on the transmission. I drained a liter of fluid and added a liter of the ZF additive to get rid of the chirp between hard shifts. Everything was working fine. I test drove the car when I was all done and it was running fine.

When I got back to the house I parked in the driveway so I could clean up the little bit of transmission fluid I spilled. When I got done cleaning, I tried to start the car to pull it into the garage, but it wouldn't start. It just cranked and cranked and cranked.

My first thought was that the new check-valve I added to the fuel line was screwed up, or that the fuel pump had quit working. I checked the pressure on the fuel rail and it was fine. Then I tried the other key, just to see if it was a security system transponder chip issue, but it didn't work either. There are no codes other than the P1111, which is normal. I'm at a loss...

UPDATE: I got done typing this, but before I hit the "Submit New Thread" button I went out to try to start the car one last time. It started instantly. That's a good thing, I guess, but now I'm afraid to go anywhere in it. My wife and I were headed down to Florida this Wednesday, but now I don't know if I want to take the Jag.
 
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Old 11-07-2010, 03:02 PM
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Sam,

Could you be having a problem with the shifter selector switch and was it moved when you did your work on the trans? If not just check your fuses and relays in the engine compartment and make sure they are seated properly and clean.
 
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:18 PM
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Sam... it sounds like what I have read about fuel wash down on a short start run cycle just as you describe. I cant find a thread, but i know I have read about it several times.
 
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:15 AM
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not in sam's car midlife, he's got a 2003. <2001 is the nikasil liners.

And if it was the neutral safety switch, it wouldn't crank at all, just light up the dash and no click. Mine had it, so I know the symptoms of that one.

That is strange Sam. Not sure what it could be. I wouldn't be worried about it until it does it again, and more consistently. Report back if it happens again, and under what circumstances. Were you on an incline? Low fuel?
 
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by h20boy
not in sam's car midlife, he's got a 2003. <2001 is the nikasil liners.

And if it was the neutral safety switch, it wouldn't crank at all, just light up the dash and no click. Mine had it, so I know the symptoms of that one.

That is strange Sam. Not sure what it could be. I wouldn't be worried about it until it does it again, and more consistently. Report back if it happens again, and under what circumstances. Were you on an incline? Low fuel?
It's weird... I'm having the same symptoms now as the guy whose battery was going dead every few days, only it just takes overnight with my car. Of course, I haven't had a chance to give it a good charge. I was busy changing the upper bushings today. I'll have a video of that later tonight, probably.
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:57 AM
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Sorry to hear that Sam, I assume you have checked the fuses and the linkage to the trans (maybe it thinks it's in drive) Also I would reset the ECU.
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by h20boy
not in sam's car midlife, he's got a 2003. <2001 is the nikasil liners...
I couldn't remember if that was one of the Nikisil issues or just a general issue...

Sam, did you try the hold your foot on the floor start sequence? That is supposed to cut off the fuel while starting so if it is a flooded condition it won't keep adding additional fluid.
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by MidlifeXJR
I couldn't remember if that was one of the Nikisil issues or just a general issue...

Sam, did you try the hold your foot on the floor start sequence? That is supposed to cut off the fuel while starting so if it is a flooded condition it won't keep adding additional fluid.
That's interesting. I didn't know about the full throttle trick. I just fixed the fuel line check valve. Prior to fixing it just about every start would have been extremely lean. Now that the engine is finally getting enough fuel, maybe it's getting too much fuel. It only happened that one time. I'll have to see what happens over the next few days. We're headed to Florida in it on Thursday.
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 09:42 AM
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I've been following your check valve posts. I just haven't really had any commentary that would add value to the thread... althought I'm not sure my other posts add value, but that is another matter.

My XJR cranks for three to four seconds every time before it starts, so I'm thinking I have a similar issue as you had. I'm sure I will get a real tech to jump in here on the full throttle start to educate us on my less than technical description, but I believe this is a standard method on injected cars to handle a flooded engine.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:06 AM
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Here I sit. At the gas station. The engine cranks but it won't start... again...
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:11 AM
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This started happening immediately after I changed the fuel filter and added the check valve. Could their be air in my fuel line? I've only drive the car about three miles since then.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:39 AM
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OK... I got the car home. This is weird. When it happened the first time I checked to see if there was pressure at the fuel rail by pressing in on the schrader valve and letting a little bit of fuel squirt out. Immediately after that the car started. This time, after sitting at the gas station for half an hour, trying to start it every few minutes with no luck, I decided to duplicate what I did to get it started the first time. I let a little pressure out of the line by pushing in on the schrader valve at the fuel rail. IMMEDIATELY after I did that the car started INSTANTLY. I turned on the key and within a half second the engine was running.

So... is the new check valve I installed giving me too much pressure on the fuel rail? Keep in mind that this is a 2003 which doesn't have a return line to the tank. I'm glad that I know how to start the car 5 minutes after shutting it off, but I don't want to have to bleed the fuel rail every time I stop for 5 minutes.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:09 PM
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Can you test it? Leave a gauge (and apparently a small temp valve) on the shrader valve. Upon going to the car, check and document the pressure, try to start the car. If no go, do your short 'bleed', note pressure, try to start it. If there is a consistent pressure issue, that'll soon reveal itself. Theory-wise, I have no clue if that is an issue.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 02:08 PM
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I am with Matt on this. I was going to do the same thing when the fuel pump went out completely.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 04:34 PM
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Sorry, loss of pressure and lack of pressure pointing to fuel pump or in-tank harness. Once you get in there, replace both. Oh, and movies!
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 04:37 PM
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Sorry, not a good feeling... I picked up AAA of the Carolinas RV membership for less than $200.00 per year which covers towing anything I own (motorcycles, convertible, SUV, or RV up to 200 miles. I haven't had to use it yet...knock on wood.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by h20boy
Can you test it? Leave a gauge (and apparently a small temp valve) on the shrader valve. Upon going to the car, check and document the pressure, try to start the car. If no go, do your short 'bleed', note pressure, try to start it. If there is a consistent pressure issue, that'll soon reveal itself. Theory-wise, I have no clue if that is an issue.
I don't have an actual pressure tester. I do a pressure test by pushing on the valve and judging how hard the fuel squirts. After I got the car home I was able to start it again with no problem. I drove it about 25 miles this afternoon. I got up to highway speed. Floored it a few times and accelerated up to 85 or so. Stopped a couple of times to run some errands. It restarted fine each time. I brought it home, washed it and cleaned the interior. Started it up to pull it into the garage. I've had no problems since then.

At least if it won't start on my trip I know how to get it started.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by old wrench
Sorry, not a good feeling... I picked up AAA of the Carolinas RV membership for less than $200.00 per year which covers towing anything I own (motorcycles, convertible, SUV, or RV up to 200 miles. I haven't had to use it yet...knock on wood.
I'm a member of AAA and I have 100 mile towing coverage! If the car breaks down on the trip to Florida, I'll just have it towed somewhere, I'll rent a car, and deal with it when I get back.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 07:03 PM
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I just want to say that I appreciate everyone's help and collective knowledge on the XK8.
Without factory support and access to an O.E.M. scan tool, it's hard to diagnose driveability concerns. As time permits I will try to be more active in my postings and observations. Thank you!
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Reverend Sam
I don't have an actual pressure tester. I do a pressure test by pushing on the valve and judging how hard the fuel squirts. After I got the car home I was able to start it again with no problem. I drove it about 25 miles this afternoon. I got up to highway speed. Floored it a few times and accelerated up to 85 or so. Stopped a couple of times to run some errands. It restarted fine each time. I brought it home, washed it and cleaned the interior. Started it up to pull it into the garage. I've had no problems since then.

At least if it won't start on my trip I know how to get it started.
AutoZone has ones for sale and rent http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-in...ter-92699.html
 


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