Chain tensioners completed!!!!
#1
Chain tensioners completed!!!!
Let me start this thread by saying , I have read all the posts and made copies for use during the "operation" yesterday. As noted , you can see I am in the medical area and a true novice to Jags. The people that have done this are of exceptional mechanical skills and do own the proper tools.
Just a few things or this post will be very long. Must haves in shop: a quality 1/4 inch socket set, swivel(s) 1/4, extensions of various lengths (1/4) ,FREEZE OFF or quality frozen nut remover (CRC), 1/4 inch torque wrench in inch/pounds, FOR PLUGS ( 5/8 inch special plug socket/3/8 inch drive socket driver and at least two extensions), gasket sealant and clean shop rags.
LIGHTS, LIGHTS and more LIGHT
Patience and listen to the pros on this board!! Follow instructions as to method that you choose to use, i.e., use of Jag tools or tie method (used by writer)
I purchased generation three FORD tensioners and shorter bolts(4) from local Ford dealer, gaskets from Jag dealer (cam cover and spark plug ) , plugs Iradium from NAPA.
My car is a 1997 XK8 and quite a few things are different in the replacement and should be noted for all others:
The air intake is held on by two bolts at the mass air flow and one bolt at the air cleaner. The air box can be removed easily but replacing it requires that you feed it in with one hand under the wheel well and the other in the engine bay. There is NO need to remove the cooling tank....just unbolt the one bolt holding it in and tie wrap it off the side. There is NO need to remove the oil fill as it removes with the cam cover. NO NEED (in reading before starting the job, caused undo agita) to remove the oil dip stick tube....not even touch it!
The two most troublesome bolts are those in the far corners on both sides near the engine fire wall for the cam covers. Had to use FREEZE OFF by CRC to break one loose or fear actually breaking one in the block.
I used torque values supplied by the local Jag dealer of 120 inch /pounds for the tensioner bolts and 87 inch/pounds for the cam bolts and cam covers. They said that Jag changed to these values a few years ago.
The "old" tensioners were generation two type (red/brown plastic and in excellent condition. The plugs needed to be changed (original with 82,xxx miles on them) . Started it up ran poor.....checked the engine compartment to find a 3 inch rubber ring which inadvertantly was not placed at MAF opening. Replaced it and it runs beautiful!!! No blood loss, stiches worked and patient doing great! What a great hobby when a plan comes together!
Thanks to all that took the time to record their experience and help the novice DOC!
Just a few things or this post will be very long. Must haves in shop: a quality 1/4 inch socket set, swivel(s) 1/4, extensions of various lengths (1/4) ,FREEZE OFF or quality frozen nut remover (CRC), 1/4 inch torque wrench in inch/pounds, FOR PLUGS ( 5/8 inch special plug socket/3/8 inch drive socket driver and at least two extensions), gasket sealant and clean shop rags.
LIGHTS, LIGHTS and more LIGHT
Patience and listen to the pros on this board!! Follow instructions as to method that you choose to use, i.e., use of Jag tools or tie method (used by writer)
I purchased generation three FORD tensioners and shorter bolts(4) from local Ford dealer, gaskets from Jag dealer (cam cover and spark plug ) , plugs Iradium from NAPA.
My car is a 1997 XK8 and quite a few things are different in the replacement and should be noted for all others:
The air intake is held on by two bolts at the mass air flow and one bolt at the air cleaner. The air box can be removed easily but replacing it requires that you feed it in with one hand under the wheel well and the other in the engine bay. There is NO need to remove the cooling tank....just unbolt the one bolt holding it in and tie wrap it off the side. There is NO need to remove the oil fill as it removes with the cam cover. NO NEED (in reading before starting the job, caused undo agita) to remove the oil dip stick tube....not even touch it!
The two most troublesome bolts are those in the far corners on both sides near the engine fire wall for the cam covers. Had to use FREEZE OFF by CRC to break one loose or fear actually breaking one in the block.
I used torque values supplied by the local Jag dealer of 120 inch /pounds for the tensioner bolts and 87 inch/pounds for the cam bolts and cam covers. They said that Jag changed to these values a few years ago.
The "old" tensioners were generation two type (red/brown plastic and in excellent condition. The plugs needed to be changed (original with 82,xxx miles on them) . Started it up ran poor.....checked the engine compartment to find a 3 inch rubber ring which inadvertantly was not placed at MAF opening. Replaced it and it runs beautiful!!! No blood loss, stiches worked and patient doing great! What a great hobby when a plan comes together!
Thanks to all that took the time to record their experience and help the novice DOC!
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