Has anyone tried this technique in changing your ATF. I was reading that a guy suggested in removing the hoses from the front cooling radiator. Basically drain the fluid using the trans to pump out and add at the same time the new fluid. when the color changes it's changed. then you check the level. I think what he was saying it that you would also get what's in the converter. You still have to replace the filter ( in my case) and clean pan first. Your thoughts.

 

That's how all the 'flush' folks do it. The flush machines are set up to display a change in ATF but I believe that that is only an indication of the preset number of Qt/L pumped in. Since you have to remove the pan to replace the filter anyway I think that is how I will do it.

 

I've just been trying to decide what fluid to use, it's all over the map for choices. I can get the pentosin for $11.30 a litre. should I use this, or are the less expensive really compatible ?

 

If I had it to do all over again I think I would use the cooler hose method and skip changing the pan/filter.

But then you have the problem of checking the fluid level... You still have to get to that incredibly difficult to reach fill plug right next to the hot exhaust pipe. The whole thing is a ****-poor design. And the car has to be elevated but perfectly level (no ramps). I think the whole "sealed for life" design comes from the bean counters who figured that the fill/dipstick tube would save $8 per car if it wasn't installed, and the transmission wouldn't break until the warranty was expired.

 

An engineered specification is a contract with the consumer. If Castrol says that their Import ATF, at $5 per quart, meets ZF requirements they are at considerable financial risk if that result in transmission failures.

 

If someone used it you have to prove it was the fluid and not a part failure. Castrol would have deep pockets to fight that don't you think?

 

Hey Rev, I watched your video, excellent job but what a pain. I think your right about the bean counters LOL. I do have a separate filter so I won't need the pan, just filter and oil. Thanks for the video

 

It's been said that the filter needs changing, and you've got to pull the pan to do that.

While you'll be missing changing the fluid in the torque converter, a second drain and fluid change in 10,000 miles (without a filter change) will dilute the remaining fluid to an acceptable level.

I bought the Castrol ATF and a filter kit to change the fluids. After Reverend Sam's video, I think I'll take my XK8 to our local father/son transmission shop. In Alabama, our Indy's don't make $110 per hour, like in California. They are glad to get $30-$40 per man hour. The fluid makes for a pretty stinky, greasy job--and may be worth the $ to have done "professionally".

 

Maybe I'm missing something but if I use the Transmission pump to push the oil out and I'm filling it up with new as it's pumping and wait till the color changes doesn't that change the converter also ? I know I still have to go underneath to change the filter and I'll clean the pan.

 

Rev- watched your ATF change video... well done! It's almost time for mine, since I am coming up on 90K on my 03 XK8 and am also a believer that 'sealed for life' is, as you put it... 'sealed for death'!

 

You are correct, the trans pump will exchange fluid in converter. This is the method most shops use for a complete exchange of ATF. However, you'll still have to pull the fill plug on the trans to set the proper fluid level [temp correct, running in-gear, etc.].

One shop I talked to said they simply measure fluid out and replace with same of amount of fluid in. When I suggested the trans fluid may not be at the proper level to begin with I got a blank stare... duh.

 

You're so right, after 50K how would you know what the level is. I'm doing it with the temp. and side plug to make sure and be right. Thanks, I kinda thought it would change everything.

 

I finally did my transmission oil change yesterday. It took about 3 hours. I first drained the oil from the pan only got out about 3 quarts ??? . I then went to the front and pulled off the cooling hoses to the radiator and pumped out another 3 quarts of fluid using the transmission and running thru the gears. I went back and dropped the pan and cleaned it and put in my new filter. I replaced the pan and filled thru the top radiator hose. I pumped in 7.5 quarts of Castrol Import oil. I did the oil level check just like Sam did in his video.BTW, Sam your video was very helpful thanks alot. I thought I would get out more fluid than that, I was expecting to put back near the 10 quarts. All in all, I think it went pretty good. It cost me just under $70.

 

I think there's a little piece of info missing here: the cooler is not full-flow, i.e. only a portion of the oil pump's output is directed to the cooler. Plus, the return from the cooler usually (if I were to say always, someone would find a trans' where it doesn't) splash lubes some component before returning to the pan. I only know of one fluid exchanger that exchanges close to 100% of the fluid - the pan and filter is removed, and a spring-loaded supply pipe is inserted into the port the filter normally attaches. However... this still doesn't flush 100% of the fluid in the convertor, does it? But it is the next best thing to playing russian roulette with your convertor and a drill bit. (Yes, we used to do that years ago.)

My suggested method is to jack the car up, drain the pan, change the filter, install the pan. Remove the fill plug, reinstall it loosely. Remove the lower cooler line (or attach a hose to the radiator side of the upper hose connection) and place into a five gallon bucket, attach a funnel to the upper line and dump in 3-4 qts. Make some marks on the bucket so you can kinda keep in sync with the amount of fluid pumping out. Start the car, pour fluid in as it comes out. When clean fluid appears at the bucket, shut the engine off and check the amount of fluid in the bucket vs. what you poured in (don't forget what you drained from the pan.) Make it easy on yourself and try to be a little over on how much you put in. Reconnect the cooler line(s). Start the engine, shift throuh all gears and return to 'Park'. Check per OE instructions, hopefully you'll be slightly over and only have to drain a slight overage from the fill port, rather than add. This procedure will be much simpler and overall easier than multiple drain and fills, etc.

 

Thanks Beav,
If I put 7.5 back in,doesn't that mean that there was 2.5 left in the convertor ? If that's true, maybe I'll run another 10k and do it again like you suggested.

 

Yeah, and if you dump 20 quarts in there you still probably won't have removed 100% of the old fluid...

BTW, NAPA sells Pentosin ATF1 for $14.89/qt., probably the next best, if not better, alternative for LT 71141/Lifeguard 5. Trades discount probably around 20-25% less.

 

Wow, that's a nasty job. I have just swapped in a new engine so will be having to do it tomorrow. I wonder if it would be worth fabbing up a bottom fill in the pan. Maybe a tube that goes to the same level as the fill hole. Just pump fluid in then let it drain out. It might be a bit vulnerable to rocks, I guess. Or maybe something like those quick oil-drain things for the engine oil.

 

Has anybody thought of a way to retrofit a dipstick/fill tube to this? Maybe a fitting on the side of the pan?

 

A dipstick conversion is available and was discussed in a thread in the past year or so. Try doing a search.

 

I think there may be another option on the fill procedure too. Consider this...

Start the engine then *when cold* add enough fluid so that it starts to run out of the hole. Then, either at that point or preferably when the exhaust is just getting just a little uncomfortable to the touch, put the plug in one thread. Continue to run the car to 50C (I believe Rev's video says 35 to 50 degrees) and at that point, close the plug all the way.

Logic? The fluid will only expand as it warms so by putting it in cold, you know there will be enough. With only one thread in, excess fluid due to expansion should continue to drain (though slowly). Maybe not enough though. But I'm not sure how critical the level actually is. I wouldn't mind betting an overflow fill when cold would be enough. Would anyone consider maybe filling when cold then measure how much extra ATF comes out as it warms? I bet it's no more than a few CC.