The day I bought my 05, it had a warning to ck. rear lights. Turned out to be a red side marker light not illuminated. Slapped the lamp and it came on, message went away! I eventually found an assembly and swapped out the side marker lamp socket.

 

I had this happen a few years ago....This is really a simple fix, if you have a helper. You need to replace the brake light switch.
Its hard to reach so you will need a helper to hold it while you locate the mounting holes and get it bolted in.

 

A brake pedal switch failure typically causes both "Check Rear Lights" and "Cruise Not Available" to be alternately displayed on the dashboard message center, so this may not be the cause of Jay's issue....

 

Hello folks.

Hey Mike... Cool coincidence! I happened to have an FOB remote come in the mail yesterday, just before reading your post. I was going home to start the process of programming the remote alarm system. I read your post on the commute... Just to torture myself a little, I waited to reconnect the "antenna" wire that I'd disconnected from the SLCM while I'd been tinkering. Just to see if that's what it was... AND, no dice with the "antenna" wire discon,,, nothing. When I connected the "antenna wire", now that I knew what it was, voila',,,, chirp chirp. Working alarm. Thanks for the advice Mike! Really.

So, I haven't gone back and done anything much on the problem central to this thread since last posting. I do have the bulbs coming and am looking to get resistors as well,,, just because. They are so cheap. And yes, I had forgotten about he chart/pdf that was included by Mike in post #10 so thanks again!

In the mean time,,, to cover all bases,,, I was looking to get the bulb holders for the rear side marker (red) running lights. The ones on the trim behind the wheels. They are in bad shape and just might be my problem. I dont want to buy the whole new assemblies. I would buy them used anyways (I think) and would prefer to ONLY replace the plugs. Thing is I'm having a hard time finding the "ford 1203522" part of the assembly. Tons of Euro Parts come up with this part number (expensive to by and ship) but I cannot find the U.S. equivalent. There must be one. Its the white plug, the part bulb fits into, which then screws or tabs into the lens or assembly housing. (see pic)

Does anyone have any info on where to get just that part? I would appreciate it. I need to by at least 4. I will also be installing side marker (fender signals) soon as well...

 

Given that the SLM isn't available to buy anymore I think I would be reluctant to start trying to replace the resistors, especially if I was a novice with a soldering iron.

I think it's worth checking everything else first, including the brake light switch which can also generate a check lights message.

 

Understood dibbit. Understood.

 

within a week of getting my cat, there were several alerts showing on my dash:
suspension fault
check rear lights
no cruise control
AND the odometer was going crazy, flashing, displaying half numbers etc...

battery was fairly new, so it was traced back to a bad brake light switch. it was replaced in mid-Jan, and the car has been fault free since. the repair is around $250...

 

I have no other symptoms, nothing going wrong, other than "Check Rear Lights" message and little glowing orange light on dash at this point. I want both gone... All lights work. No other issues.

There is a 'post' in the trunk near the battery where approx 7-8 wires are grounded to the body of vehicle. When I remove one (1) of the wires (with others in place), reverse and trunk lights go out AND "CRL" message disappears. When I return ground, lights come back on, as does "CRL" message. When I re-ground (touch) that wire back to the post, there is an obvious 'tic', signifying an electric 'load' on that ground wire that doesn't appear to be as 'heavy' on other wires.

I will replace bulbs as soon as the mail delivers them. I will continue by checking resistance on board if bulbs dont solve the CRL message. I will attempt to replace resistors IF they read to be obviously bad. If not, I will replace bulb holders (pics above) in the side marker lights and wiring (ones now are in pretty bad shape). I will then proceed to check brake light switch which is a more expensive a fix and a pain in the *** to get to and switch out, or so I hear...

Today - in the mean time - starting a tensioner job and to chase down a P1396 code. I think I didnt properly set drivers side VVT to 'fully retarded' when I replaced drivers side cylinder head, VVT and cam before winter hit... The 1396 code and CEL has been bugging me since... damn car runs great for the most part - but seeing codes, CEL and warning lights are just a pain in the tush... wish me luck.

 

For the bulb holder/socket, check this post originally by Canuck Pump Engineer in the stickies - the link within is still good:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-x100-17/xk8-xkr-non-oem-interchangable-parts-thread-115180/#post1128527



Going back to the check lights issue, could you post a pic. of the other side of the circuit board - the same area as your first shot?

 

order placed! and page saved as fav,,,, thank you michaelh!

Oh,,, and I will post pictures first thing tomorrow...

 

Good morning, michaelh...

Sorry for the delay in getting you these pictures..... I did a tensioner job on Monday and worked to reset my drivers side VVT and Cam to "fully retarded". Revisiting a mistake (the VVT) I made that has produced a P1396 code and CEL since I installed a cylinder head a while back. Job went smoothly BUT,,,,. After buttoning everything back up she started right up, no CEL and - but of course - the front crank seal that I installed when I did the CHead job is leaking oil!!!! I have to take things apart again. lol, OMG, ho hum, BS! S*#&%*T and all that jazz.

I couldn't even LOOK at the car for the next couple of days, never mind touch it, lol, but here are the pictures you asked for. Id be interested in knowing what you see. Both sides included.

I appreciate your interest and advice! Thank you!

J

p.s. I installed four new single filament p21/5w bulbs yesterday and still have CRLights message. Still waiting on the double filament from SNG Barrat, new clean bulb holders from ford and Im wondering if there is anything I should know about the amber bulbs and ratings. Somethings gotta work here!

 

Hi Jay.
Ugh. Hope the crank pulley comes back off without too much drama.


It all looks good - I don't think there's anything wrong in there. TBH I got a bit fixated on the lamps lit with no codes. LED lamps would give the same symptoms as Billy posted a way back. I just wanted to satisfy myself that there had been nothing 'modified' in the SLM.

Wait until you have all the new bulbs & connectors and then check again. Correct me if I'm wrong as mine is different, but you should have 8 bulbs lit with the sidelights turned on: 2 rear side markers, 2 number plate lamps and 2 in each rear light cluster. The monitoring is more comprehensive on your car too.

Can you confirm? P21/5W should be double filament brake/tail with two contacts on the base (the 1157 that Billy also mentioned). These are the sidelamps are in the cluster, although I understand one of the sockets only has the one contact for the tail filament. Odd - perhaps Jaguar originally intended to double up on the brake lamps also.

The amber bulbs for the indicators are 21W single filament and won't cause this issue.

The wiring for the side repeaters is only present on one side on LHD cars, and I can't remember which. Others have done this addition so a search should turn up the solution.

Best,

 

Hi michaelh

Shoot. So that reminds me. I forgot to check the ratings of the lic plate bulbs, which I will now, for sure. Do you think they are the same type/size/rating found in the rear light assembly? >>>> My small, red, marker lights down on the side-ish rear, are those tiny bulbs with the exposed contacts that you just push in to the holders. The holders arrived yesterday btw, and I plan to replace those (hoping the CRL sig goes off) and also to install side marker/repeaters on the fenders over the weekend. Thanks for the clarity on the LHD wiring. This car has become a cool full time hobby - no doubt.

Is it 8? I guess it is IF one counts the low side markers (which might trigger the CRL alert no matter their size), the 2 Lic Plate bulbs AND the 2 in each of the two rear light assemblies. So yes.

Sorry - I cannot confirm the ratings of what I currently have or what should be in the amber/flashers sockets in the rear. But I'll check.

 

The number plate lamps are the same as the side markers (and side repeaters): 12V5W 'wedge base' as Jaguar calls them. SNG:
SNG Barratt - Related Item Details

but they're used in lots of cars (at least they are this side of the pond) so you shouldn't have any issue sourcing them.

Usual symptom of dud indicator bulbs is that you will hear the 'tick' at double the normal speed.


M

 

I find it odd that after 34 posts the simple job of replacing bulbs and maybe a socket hasn't been fixed? Bulbs are bulbs, the old bulb will give you the wattage and type. Any auto parts store should have them.

 

thanks grantorino62

have you read the original post? i wish it was as simple as bulbs. it hasn't been.

btw - the new bulbs and holders for the low rear marker lights made no change in the CRL message. four bulbs to go. then on to the SLM...

 

Sorry I'm losing track here:- you have replaced the rear side markers and the four tail lamps. That leaves only the two number plate lamps?

 

Hello michaelh

There are:
4 double filament bulbs - break and running lights (lost in the mail)
4 single filament - rear fog, reverse and
4 of the mini's lic plate and low markers
2 blinkers.

I think I have that right. Now that Im looking at this diagram, it seems like Ive gotten some wrong info (P21/5w) for some of the bulbs, smh...

all lights work FINE so I'm not so pressured. I just want the warning gone - which is proving difficult.

 

Hi JJJ,

That diagram is for the older rear light cluster like mine where the stop and tail lamps are separate. AFAIK the newer ones have P5/21W in both of those positions. JTIS definitely shows the tails as twinned.

I'm just off to put the front undertray back on mine so I'll take a look when I crawl out...

 

COOL. I have separate stop and tail as well. We'll see.