I noticed that after changing the oil in my XK8 for the first time after I bought it, I was getting a strange metalic noise when I first started the car cold in the morning. Well I have changed the oil again only instead of using 5-30 Mobil 1 I used the Euro blend 0-40 like I use in my BMW and the noise is gone and the car still runs great!!.

Maybe the 5-30 was too thin?

Just wanted to throw it out there so others with strange start up noises can try this and see what happens.

 

Did you use the same brand filter?

 

I quieted up my engine at startup with a little more aggressive approach, and followed with a heavier weight oil just like you did bigvette. I wanted to wait a few months before declaring success, but i believe I'm safely out of danger and can now report I didn't do something insanely stupid.

Remember when I was exploring the oil pan and ran into those big shavings from what appeared to be the consensus of 'block shaving' during manufacturing? Well, I had the car apart for so long, and I had 5 bottles of ATF fluid just sitting around (mercon V from my mom's LS, a couple Volvo (jaguar equivalent) and some Lifeguard 6) and coupled with a few cheapo bottles of dino 5-w30, I put this concoction into the 150,000 miles-driven engine and let it idle for 20 minutes while I observed. that's when I emptied it out (still hot), dropped the pan, changed filters, wiped the pan clean as a whistle, and let every drop of that ATF suicide (remember suicide drinks growing up?) crap come out onto some newspapers. I then put a new gasket on the pan, new drain bolt, tightened it back up to the car, put fresh synthetic oil of said 5-w30 weight, and my initial VVT clatter is almost gone, and it idles much quieter than before That's my "engine cleaning" story, hope its not too much of a curveball for your thread topic.

 

I had a similar problem with my 2010 SHO soon after an oil change at Valvoline. I took it to the Ford dealer for warranty work and had them change the oil the next time. No problem now. I also did some research on oil filter and found a BIG deference in the quality, not always concentric with a quality name.
I believe the filter Valvoline used had a broken flow back valve.

 

Daaaa never gave the filter a second thought. My Inde does the work and I never thought about it, I will now!!!!

 

Maybe no connection, but worthwhile to see if it was the same or not. Some have an anti-drainback valve that can help with lubrication on start-up. No reason not to like the heavier oil though...the manufacturers need to do everything they can to get milage up and thinner oil is a way to get there. Doesn't mean you can't go a grade heavier if you want. Here in FL I've gone with the X - 40 as well for both cars.

 

After thinking about it, the noise sounded like a metalic rattle on cold start and a tap at idle. Now on cold start, there is NO noise and No tap and car runs quiet and smooth. Oil pressure comes up faster too. How would an oil filter cause a tap and rattle? I think it was the oil being too light weight and causing a rattle or tap sound until it got hot and thicker. Strange but it is fixed and I love the way this car runs. It also looks better than a corvette too and that from me is a statement. I just would like a little more kick
like a 5.7 or 6.0 liter v8 instead of a 4.0.

 

An oil filter without a non-return valve will drain into the oil sump as the vehicle stands. When you come to start it again, the oil filter has to fill before full pressure will come up. Rattle from chains and valves is a common consequence in this situation.

I never look to save on oil filters. The difference between cheapo and Jaguar OE is never more than the cost of a couple of gallons of fuel.

Graham

 

There are no lifters in your engine, just parts that need oil pressure. Use the heavyer oil if you like, no poblem, but did you replace the oil fiter when you added the 5-W30?......I thought so!

 

OK, now I am going to start some trouble. I have no idea what brand filter my mechanic used, I know he knows I don't cut corners and I am not looking for cheap.

What is considered the correct filter to use on my car? Mobil 1? Bosh? wix?

Would really like to hear some ideas and suggestions.

 

When I had a Z3 several forum members complained about the quality of Fram and Purolater, so I started using Mann. The most important issue is that the filter has a check valve, regardless of the manufacturer. Of course, you can always go OE.

 

- Bob is the Oil Guy to make your head spin. Check out the oil forum. I've used Mann and Napa Gold. Why? Availability.

 

The correct Oil Filter for your vehicle is:



It is manufactured for Jaguar to their specification.

There are many alternative brands that will fit. They say so in the catalogue or on the box. What I have yet to see on an alternative brand is the phrase 'to Jaguar specification'. There's a big difference between fit and specification.

On most parts you can see the quality. With an Oil Filter, there's no way of knowing what's inside without cutting it open.

With a scheduled oil and filter change interval of 12K Miles or 12 Months, the cost of the fuel I burn makes any consideration of saving on filters irrelevant. Jaguar OE for me every time.

Graham

 

+1 on Graham's comment. Use the OE filter. Cheap insurance. I changed mine today. $20 USD at the dealer including tax and a free bottled water.

 

just bought an 01 XKR yesterday, noticed clicking sounds when idling. its at 95,100 miles. Should i switch to synthetic? Dealership said they just did the oil change, when checking the dip stick, it looked used, not too dark, but not light like syrup or how new oil should look. would switching to a heavy blend cure this????

 

I use 10W40 in both of my cars. In your climate that is probably a good choice.