I've successfully replaced the cable for the column reach on my 1997 XK8 and some of the other threads regarding this subject were a wealth of information and I ended up learning a few things that I wanted to share.


After removing various fascia pieces to reveal the steering column, it was difficult to remove the column reach motor because it sits on top of the steering column. With the drivers seat removed, it was a contortionist act to access the top of the steering column. My cable had sheared off with the column in the retracted position and once the column reach motor was out, half of the sheared cable was still in the steering column and it was difficult to remove as there was nothing to grab on to because it was sheared off even with the receptacle on the column that it keys in to. Using a dentist mirror, a small pick and my best contortionist moves, I was able to coax a few of the wire strands of the sheared cable out far enough so that I could grab them with a needle nose pliars and thus remove the rest of the cable.

Afterwards, I realized that the sheared piece could have been easily removed by using a strong rare earth magnet to pull the sheared portion out.

Reinstallation of the motor with the steering column in place was difficult at best and nearly impossible. I did try to drop the steering column by removing the two nuts at the firewall end of the column and the two nuts up by the steering wheel end of the column. The column started to drop at the firewall end but the other end was not wanting to drop because those two bolts pass through a metal brace by about a quarter to a half inch and this prevents the column from dropping as I could not pull the column far enough out to clear the bolts from the brace.

The solution was to use a pry bar and gently pry the brace so that it clears the bolts. Once this is achieved, the column drops easily enough and I figured this out during the reinstallation of the motor and the new cable.

The column reach motor is held to the steering column by a black plastic clip and during removal, I used a flat screwdriver to pry one side of the clip loose and this I learned from a previous thread on this subject. With the column dropped, installation of the motor by snapping the black plastic clip in to place was not easy as you need to key the cable at both ends and this "clipping in sideways" motion is not conducive to getting the cable keyed at both ends.

It is easier to slide the motor and the black piece of plastic along the steering columns axis for removal or installation. This allows the new cable to key at both ends and the black plastic piece slides along the column and then snaps right in to place.

The column reach motor does have a potentiometer on one end and this is used to electronically set the stops for the retraction and reach limits, along with finding the memorized locations. It is important that you set the motors potentiometer properly before reinstalling as if you don't, there's a possibility of shearing the new cable. Being that my column was in the "in" position, I needed to set my potentiometer accordingly and my solution is as follows.

You can take a hex key and file down two sides of it so that it fits in to the square opening at the end of the potentiometer. The hex key can then be used to turn the potentiometer (along with the motor) to the proper location. According to the 1997 Range Electrical Guide, the Column Reach Motor Potentiometer Feedback is .5 volts (Out) and 4 volts (in). Being that my column was in the "in" position, I spun the potentiometer with the hex key until I got the lowest Ohm reading possible. (in my case .73 Ohms on the 20k Ohm setting) The Ohm reading was taken from the Blue wire and the Blue & White wire coming off of the potentiometer. The highest Ohm reading was 9.2 Ohms

Once the potentiometer was set, the motor with the new cable reinstalled and the steering column rehung; I'm happy to say that everything worked like a charm!

 

Mike, great info thanks. Maybe the moderators might create a sub folder with all these great posts on this topic. Inch by inch we are getting closer to knowing all there is to know about this reach tilt feature from a technical perspective.

I gave up on trying to "fix" my switch to properly move the steering wheel years ago, and wired up 4 micro switches to the motors via relays.

Lord knows, I use it all the time. Surely I'll have to fix the cable someday.

Thanks again,

John