Alright here we go, I have not replaced the secondary tensioners yet. I have a cooling tower leaking that I need to fix and a drivers side valve cover leaking. Since I'm going in this far is it prudent to go all the way and do the whole thing? Heck its only money and the way this car is bleeding me this year 1300 now is cheaper than a new motor, right? There is about 50K on the reman engine and the car has 80K.

My question is after reading the write up in the FAQ's it seems to be a straight forward procedure. So can I assume that once everything is locked down from above is it just old parts off and new parts on? Am I missing something?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4n489...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDOFh...eature=related

Does the radiator need to come out or just the fan assembly?

Do you need to remove the hood?

Dealer will do it all for 3700.00 I know I can shop them and work it down, but I have the tools, garage, stands ramps and patience to do it myself. Plus a third driver while I tear it apart.

Just interested in knowing what I'm really thinking about getting into!

I know it ain't broke Y E T !

 

Only $3700? *grins because he used to work at that dealer - on Saabs*

 

DaddyO:

Do you know for sure that the car still has plastic secondary tensioners? Do you know if the original water pump has been replaced with a metal impeller pump?

A full chain replacement is a seriously major repair--and not something for the faint of heart. If the engine has just 50K miles since a rebuild, you should first pull the driver's side valve cover looking for the 3rd generation metal tensioner. You should also pull the Thermostat Housing to get to the water pump--looking for a metal impeller. The electric fans and plastic housing will need to be pulled, but be sure to put a sheet of cardboard over the radiator. THEN, IT'S TIME TO MAKE A LIST OF PARTS TO ORDER ONLINE.

Most forum members would just change the secondary tensioners to a metal part, replace the water pump (if not metal), install a metal thermostat housing (with new thermostat), and replace any old radiator hoses/sepentine belt/belt tensioner as needed. They would suggest changing spark plugs @ 50K miles. A valve cover gasket kit would be needed.

Let's take this job task step by step. You seldom would ever have to remove a XK8 hood for repairs--just unhook the hydraulic cylinder and put the hood up at 90 degrees with a 10 mm bolt in the holes.

 

Well I 'm glad you are enjoying your retirement on my dime!

The tensioners are plastic and orange in color like all the other failed ones I have seen on line. When I repair the cooling tower leaks I'll be at the water pump. So pulling it will not be a problem. Once there I'm 75% to the meat and potatoes of the whole mess why not finish the meal and have some desert.

So back to the original question. Am I missing something.

 

I did the whole job myself. I bought the tools and have them available. It is not hard and even though it is much more time consuming than just replacing the secondary tensioners, IMO it is the "Right" thing to do. My primary chain guides were cracked and in time would have failed. Now I have the peace of mind knowing everything was replaced. I have the instructions to go with the tools. I can send you articles with pictures to your PM or email. PM me about the tools if you want to DITY. I didn't pull the radiator and I have an R model, so you don't have to open-up the AC system (condensor attached to radiator).

I will be happy to give you all the info you need.

 

Thank you Steve for the offer on the tools I'll send you a PM to arrange that portion. I'm probably 30 days out on doing this. The big question I have is with the shims. Are they placed on the outer carrier and then when the tensioner is installed you essentially put as much tension against the chain with the shim in place. Then upon removal of the shim the chain will have the proper "slack" in travel?

 

I have never had to remove a bonnet to do any engine repair. I usually just disconnect the bonnet struts and use a telescopic 'hood prop' to gain a better angle.

Of course I do this for a living so any time I can save a step in labor or time can be spent somewhere else.

One thing to note is that you should try to get the crank sprockets back the way they were originally located (gear teeth alternating and not parallel between sprockets). What I mean is that when you look at the sprockets from the front of the crank snout, you see alternating 'point/valley/point/valley' between them. I don't know if it is an engineering harmonic thing but it is a design I noticed.

bob gauff

 

Dueled noted, thank you for the tip.