Well that sucks, wolfpk, because guess who's lights just came on after 2 days at a red light...

Nick

 

I think it's time to have the codes read by someone who can pull ABS codes. There should be a foreign car specialist somewhere in your neighborhood.

 

Go to a garage that has a SnapOn code reader or someone that has a Mongoose.

 

Yeah, it's time.
I'll find someone after the holidays and report back. Maybe I'll by an ABS code reader.

Happy Holidays!
Nick

 

Nick,

Not sure if you had done a reseat of the front sensors, but that often produces a temporary fix. Made permanent (sometimes) by taking some stress off of the wiring/connectors for those sensors.

The solder joints in the module, front sensor connectivity, the battery ... these probably account for 80+ percent of the faults.

It's good to have codes of course, but if you get one pointing to a front sensor, it's more likely to be the wiring/connector than the sensor itself.

 

know theres 2 pins you check with an ohm meter if the ohms arnt a certain parameter the module is bad cant remember which 2 it is .thats why i just went and got a replacement from module repair cost was 150 and its been working great now for almost a year .

 

Hey guys

Dennis, I have re-seated the sensors and put slack into the wiring. It helped for maybe half a day, then it started up again.

Funny thing is that this all started a couple of months ago after the wire to the left front sensor broke off in my hand when I went to clean the sensor. I cleaned up the end of the wire, added a new electrical connector and thought I was done with it.

Also, since the most recent re-solder (one week ago), she'll be fine for 4-5 start cycles and then the lights come on while sitting still. They are always coming on while sitting still.

Knowing which 2 pins, wolfpck1, would be valuable info

Nick

 

Nick,

A stubborn one, this.

Suggestion: start the car and see if you can induce a fault by wiggling the wiring leading to that left front sensor.

Also --- 'scuse me if this has been covered -- do we know what kind of shape your battery is in? I'm thinking this may be in play because when the car is stopped ... that's when voltage tends to be lowest. Marginal batteries do trigger these kinds of faults.

 

I will try the wiggling suggestion.

What should I be looking for in the battery? I have a multimeter. What kind of numbers should I be seeing?

 

The problem on mine turned out to be the tires. The problem never came back after I replaced them. The tire place said one of the back Michelins had a belt that was deformed and it may have been causing a shake.


Dave

 

Remember that the ABS system reads each wheel and calculates what is acceptable and when it is not it will set a code/fault. A tire low on pressure could be a problem. It returning means it has a problem and finding will not be easy without codes or testing.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

Let's get what's called a "rest voltage" reading. Charge the battery if you can, or drive it for a while after its last start of the day. Then let the battery settle overnight, and read the voltage the next morning before starting the car.

We'd like to see at least 12.5+ Volts. Let us know the temperature where the car spends the night too.

Corrected for temperature, the rest voltage is one of the most accurate measures possible of a sealed lead-acid battery's state of charge. But it can't be done "on the spot" because it requires the 8+ hour rest interval.

 

Or take the car to a shop with a tester and have them test the battery in the car it will take the guess work out. If in the states Auto zone, Advanced Auto or Sears can do it for you for free.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

You got it guys!

I'll have some readings for you tomorrow morning. In the meantime I'm going to ask Santa for an ABS code reader

Nick

 

I found that just one tire being 7 lbs lower than the rest will also set it off.


Dave

 

Ok, guys.

The car was parked overnight in the driveway with the temps approx 40-45*F.

The multimeter showed 12.38V before start up. The ABS/SCF lights did not come on upon start up and I drove her about 5 miles.
Parked back in the driveway, I had to raise and lower the top with the engine off to repair a window/gasket seal (water leak with heavy rain yesterday). Upon the next start up, the lights came on.

Battery Issue?

Nick

 

Get the battery checked.

 

Yeah...thought so.

Happy Holidays to all and thanks for all the help. I've learned alot!

Nick

 

It's sure a candidate.

The good news is, you've already checked the battery. With a rest voltage of 12.38, it will almost certainly fail any sensible "load test" that a drive-in place can offer (they're not standardized). Your measurement indicates it's at about 1/2 of original capacity. (Did you use a charger on it the night before?)

Of course, another test couldn't hurt.

ABS fault or no, you might want to consider a change out, especially going into winter.


(If you don't mind humoring me, I'd still be interested in the results of the "sensor wire wiggle" test.)


Happy Holidays to you too!

 

Thanks again.

Dennis, I may be able to "wiggle it" sometime over the holiday season.

Everyone can interpret that any way you want...