Just as an update to this continuing saga...

All fuses and wheel speed sensors check out fine with Gus' worksheet.

All the wires leading to the sensors checked out fine with the multimeter and have been re routed to have a lot of slack (the wiggle test proved negative, Dennis).

The ABS module has been out twice and re-soldered

Bought a Ctek 3300 resulting in a fully charged battery

STILL HAVE THE F---IN' LIGHTS!

I've sent out the module to an eBay company that repairs them. Now, with the ABS module out, my dash looks like a Christmas tree. Stay tuned.

P.S. With the module out, is it normal that the speedometer and odometer not function?

Nick

 

Sorry to hear, Nick

I'm a little confused about the battery. I think you measured overnight rest voltage at ~ 12.35. Maybe that wasn't starting with a full charge.

Have you confirmed that the rest voltage is higher now?

(I don't know about the speedo question.)

 

The rest voltage is 12.65 confirmed on 3 separate cold mornings without the charger attached.

 

Super!

And not to beat this to death, but that's with the charger disconnected for the full overnight period, yes?

 

Yepper!

 

I've been bugging you about this because there was such a big change from your initial reading ... 12.65 v. 12.38, right? That's huge.

Suggests the car's charging system was not doing a great job on its own.

Not a new battery, right?

 

Dennis

I keep forgetting to check the battery level first thing in the morning. I just hop into the car and head on off to work.

I will put a post it note in the car tonight and check the battery level tomorrow morning and report back. Your logic makes sense. I just never really thought about the differential until you just brought it up.

Nick

 

Without codes and the batter load checked it is hard to say what was going on. Have you checked the fluid level for the brake fluid? It could be what is setting off your ABS light.

 

Thanks Gus, yes, I've checked the brake fluid levels and they have been normal.

I'm waiting for the ABS module to be returned after servicing to see where I stand.

Nick

 

Well, folks, here's the (I hope) final update.

The ABS module came back from servicing yesterday. I installed it and haven't seen a ABS/Stability Control Fail light yet. I've run the care through approx 10 ignition on/off cycles which definitely would have triggered the warning lights previously...no lights! Best $45 I've spent on the car!

Onward to replacing my windshield wiper control stick (only works in intermittent mode and doesn't want to click into continuous mode) and the new clunk I'm hearing coming out of the front driver's side wheel when it travels downward as if into a pothole. Gotta love these cars...

Nick

 

That's good news. Let's hope it is indeed fixed once and for all. What company did you choose to refurbish your ABS module?

 

It's worthwhile remembering that it is not just the soldered joints that fail on the ABS module - there is other stuff in there which gives problems and throws codes unrelated to what is actually wrong. Mine threw sensor codes which resulted in my changing sensors, a link lead and soldering the joints - none of which worked. Eventually sent it to ASI for repair last May and no problems since.

 

Please provide the ASI contact information so we can all jot it down for our records. I believe if we keep our cars long enough, we will all be having our modules refurbished eventually....

 

The company who fixed the unit told me that I damaged other solder points when trying to open up the unit on 2 separate occasions. I could swear that I was careful and even checked all the solder points around the periphery with a high powered loop...but I guess everybody should stick to their own specialty.

I used a company I found on eBay called SIA Electronics (not ASI).

They can be reached at (800) 737-0915 and are located at: P.O.Box 392
730 North Minnie Street; Tilden, IL 62292

$50; lifetime warranty; quick turnaround time, and free return shipping

Nick

 

Automotive Scientific Inc. | Quality Rebuilt Automotive Electronics | Rogersville, TN


There you go - they did my spare throttle body recently as well - I posted the results in a different thread. BTW, I have no connection to ASI whatsoever - I obtained their details from Gus's site.

 

Thanks guys. I won't try this repair at home. Better left to the electronics experts I think. So my list of potential repair shops now includes ASI in Tennessee, SIA Electronics in Illinois, and Module Repair Pro in California. From what I've gleaned on the forum, all of them seem to be capable of properly repairing our ABS modules at very reasonable prices. I'm sure there are other capable companies so those of you who have utilized some of them, please add their contact information to this thread. Thanks....

 

Yo went through a hell of lot for $45

 

Yeah, Aode, it felt like alot but on the flip side, I learned alot about the car, electronics, how to use a multimeter, and got alot of wonderful advise by all you guys.

I think it was worth it.

Nick

 

I used ModuleMaster to rebuild mine a few years ago. Think it was $150.

Contact info:

ModuleMaster
2006 S Main
Moscow, ID 83843

888-892-0764
208-892-0674

ModuleMaster

 

Quite pricey compared to the other service providers listed in this thread. Let's hope they've come down a bit....