I’m trying to find a pressure relief valve from GUS at Jagrepair.com but have been unable to contact him. Is there any way to obtain a pressure relief valve for the convertible top somewhere? I’m a new member and have a 2003 XKR convertible and would like to avoid the green shower. Or is it really necessary to put in a new valve? One of the Most beautiful automobiles made!
Thank you
Jonathan steele

 

Ask @Dennis07

 

Hi Jonathon,
You won't need a pressure relief valve if you upgrade the whole system. Remove the cover over the latch cylinder in the top of the windshield frame and look for signs of leaking fluid. You may find rust that has perforated the windshied frame or stains on the fabric on the inside of the frame before you even remove the cover. I found that on my first XK8, a '99 and several others when looking for a replacement after a deer strike. Then, remove the bottom of the back seat and look for leaks. You may find a puddle in the low areas on one or both sides if there is a leak in either of the lift cylinders. They are located immediately in front of each rear fender. Reach under the upholstery panels and feel for any oily moisture on the floor that would indicate even a small leak. Also check the hoses on the floor for deterioration of the covering. You should also look for this in the windshield header and in the trunk. Remove the right hand side panel to access the hydraulic pump. If the fluid level is not up between the two level marks on the translucent plastic tank, it may indicate a leak somewhere. Now put your hand around the lines going from the tank to the back seat and feel for deterioration as you slide your hand along. You may feel bare metal if the covering has turned to dust. You may also find fluid under the pump and cd changer or alongside the battery.
If you find any leaks, it's time for an upgrade. I bought a kit from tophydraulics.com in Washington state and was quite pleased. They rebuilt the two lift cylinders and the locking cylinder with high pressure seals and fittings and supplied a set of new high pressure hoses along with fittings to attach them to the old hoses so you pull them into place as you pull the old ones out. They will also re build your pump if you feel it's needed. I didn't opt for that as my pump was working well. It's a reasonably easy job if time consuming. Mine was made more difficult by the need to clean and paint the interior of the windshield frame and the floor under the back seat. The driver seat needs to be removed fo the job, but it's not too tough. The cost of parts was just over $1000 in 2021, and hasn't changed much. I'm considering swapping it into my replacement car along with the interior which was all replaced, unless I decide to rebuild my old pal.

Best of luck and best wishes,
Rick

 

Before you open up any of the hydraulics, do an inspection of the system in two places. First, look at the pump to see that the hydraulic hoses come in straight to the fittings. You can find references to this online, AKAIK.
Second, remove the trim covering the top of the windshield. This will let you see the hoses coming into the actuator that latches the top closed. (the potential source of any shower) Again, look to see if the hoses are intact and come STRAIGHT into their respective fittings. You probably will find them in perfect condition because the true source of the whole problem was careless assembly where the hoses were installed coming in at an angle. These hoses blew out in short order and the Jaguar reputation was HOSED. LOL
By now, any hose that was installed badly has probably failed and been replaced. (hopefully properly) It's not cheesy hoses that caused the problems, but cheesy process control. Almost like Lucas took over the hydraulics after years of inflicting us with their cheesy electrics.
Lucas refrigerators = warm British beer