Convertible top works now! minus $1,000
#1
Convertible top works now! minus $1,000
Found a local mechanic (70 miles round trip local).
He's a Jag dealer mechanic who also works on cars in his off time.
Just picked up a 2001 XK8 with a bad hose going to the hook actuator above the windshield..
New hose was around $350, labor was the rest. I didn't realize you had to buy new tread plates for the rocker panels after you take them off. Apparently they bend, and will never sit flush after you pry them off.
Now the wife has a tendency to drop her top anytime the sun shines!
From what I've read on the board, and what the mech told me, it is a bear of a job, and requires a lot of trim removal.
My car already had the Jab "fix it replacement" hose splice. And that is right were it was leaking now! At the junction of the new hose and old hose.
He's a Jag dealer mechanic who also works on cars in his off time.
Just picked up a 2001 XK8 with a bad hose going to the hook actuator above the windshield..
New hose was around $350, labor was the rest. I didn't realize you had to buy new tread plates for the rocker panels after you take them off. Apparently they bend, and will never sit flush after you pry them off.
Now the wife has a tendency to drop her top anytime the sun shines!
From what I've read on the board, and what the mech told me, it is a bear of a job, and requires a lot of trim removal.
My car already had the Jab "fix it replacement" hose splice. And that is right were it was leaking now! At the junction of the new hose and old hose.
#2
Make sure you read about what you need to do so it won't happen again. The is a mod that lowers the voltage to the pump and that in turn lowers the pressure to the latch from 1600lbs to around 900. From what I have read here if you don't do the mod you will have it happen again eventually. There is also a relief valve mod that also lowers the pressure but it's allot more expensive mod.
#3
Kench
You don't have to remove the tread plates. You can work the hoses under the carpet. Actually it's the insert that get destroyed, very hard to remove with out bending it can be done but it's a very strenuous job. I can't get replacement for mine so I didn't want to remove them, so I was able to snake them under the carpet.
You don't have to remove the tread plates. You can work the hoses under the carpet. Actually it's the insert that get destroyed, very hard to remove with out bending it can be done but it's a very strenuous job. I can't get replacement for mine so I didn't want to remove them, so I was able to snake them under the carpet.
#4
Kench
You don't have to remove the tread plates. You can work the hoses under the carpet. Actually it's the insert that get destroyed, very hard to remove with out bending it can be done but it's a very strenuous job. I can't get replacement for mine so I didn't want to remove them, so I was able to snake them under the carpet.
You don't have to remove the tread plates. You can work the hoses under the carpet. Actually it's the insert that get destroyed, very hard to remove with out bending it can be done but it's a very strenuous job. I can't get replacement for mine so I didn't want to remove them, so I was able to snake them under the carpet.
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RCSign (07-05-2011)
#5
Slightly off topic, but reading all these additional issues you convertible guys have with your cars makes me glad I went with the coupe. I know the convertibles look even classier and there's nothing like that open-top feeling, but I have had so many niggles with my XKR since I bought it that I don't think I could face having to deal with a capricious roof as well
#6
Just remember Frog that the discussions here are brought to light about problems. There are many cars out there that do not have these same problems. People don't discuss here in the forums when they don't have air suspensions problems or hydraulic problems. These cars have been overall very reliable cars.
#7
As Quoted by White XKR
WhiteXKR
I'll remember that If I have to remove them. Thanks
I was able to remove my inserts without damage. I used thin copper wire (24 AWG, I think) to pry it up and a heat gun to loosen the adhesive. Its a pain, and the wire frequently breaks, but the copper is soft and will not scratch the aluminum trim. I reglued them with spray on contact cement (headliner adhesive).
I'll remember that If I have to remove them. Thanks
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