My top stop working recently - prior to that I noticed the driver's side door and window were acting a bit odd.
When I push the convertible button the back windows go down but the front ones do not and that's where we end.
Suggestions?
I have a sneaking suspicion this may be sensor-related, anyone know how I can locate a list of sensors to troubleshoot this and other items?

Thanks.

 

I suggest that you first replace the battery. These cars are very sensitive to marginal batteries.

See what happens after that.

 

Probably a good suggestion, actually. It appears the last owner did not maintain it properly and it won't hurt!

 

+1

Loss of the auto drop/lift window settings is often one of the first signs of a failing battery.

Graham

 

My husband tested the battery and claims the voltage is "fine." Would this eliminate a failing battery in your expert opinions? I've owned the vehicle since July and have no idea how old the battery is.

 

The battery should be load tested. All the auto parts stores can do this. Your husband should probably spend some time on the forum to understand the routine problems if he is mechanically inclined.

 

Without knowing what sort of voltage measurement he took, and what value he observed, it's hard to say.

Measuring the "rest voltage" (the value after a full charge and then 8 hours or so with no drain on the battery) is a good metric. We'd like to see something north of 12.5 volts.

 

Battery was checked at the auto store and it's fine. Next suggestion?
Thanks.

 

The convertible top works with a set sequence. Any interruption in the sequence will abort it. Since the windows are not dipping, the second step before unlatching, the sequence is aborted.
I would recommend resetting the window controls. I prefer playing with the controls with the engine running. You press the drivers window to the down position and continue holding the button until you hear a faint click. Then raise the window and continue holding until the click. Then do the same for the passenger window.
Once the windows are reset try opening the the top.
Let me know what you get after that.

 

^^ Good advice above. Almost sounds too simple, but it will only take a minute to reset your windows and you may get lucky....

Also, be sure to check your hydraulic fluid reservoir in the trunk to see that the fluid is indeed filled to the proper level if you have not already done so....

 

Jennifer,
I read and re-read your initial post and am still confused. Are you saying that when you push the top down button the rear windows go down, but the front (drivers and passenger) windows do not??
On my car, the rear windows go down, but the front windows do not. The only time the front windows go down is when I raise the top. That's the first thing that happen.
Maybe I'm reading it wrong.

Chuck

 

Tried the window trick and that didn't help so bought the recommended hydraulic fluid since it appears low. Also purchased a transfer tool so will be removing the old and replacing completely. *crossing fingers*

 

No, I must have typed it wrong, you are correct.

 

When lowering the top ... After the rear windows drop, you should hear the hydraulic pump start to run. It is loud enough that you should hear it clearly, especially with the engine off.

If the pump is not running, hydraulic fluid is not the problem but the pump motor itself may well be. (There is often a cheap fix for this.)

Can you hear the pump running?

 

I am sorry to hear the window trick did not work for you. Before you condem the pump motor as bad there is one more quick trick to troubleshooting the problem. In the trunk fuse box you will find relays for top up, top down, left window and right window. Take the top up relay and swap it with the top down relay. Then try to lower the top. If it works you will have to swap them back to raise it. And, you will have found the problem.
It is a quick elimination process. I have attached a diagram of the relays.

 

Premature indeed to try to name the bad actor. But if the pump is running we go down one road; if it's not running, a different road.

If the pump is not running, I'd look at the pump's 40 amp fuse before disturbing other components.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, everybody.
So before I saw your post avern1, we replaced the hydraulic fluid just to be safe then checked the fuses and found the fuse for the top was toast so we replaced it and I attempted to lower the top.
That fuse fried as well. Now we need to figure out what is impacting the fuses, frustrating but we made progress.

We're on the right track now, anyone else run into this particular issue?

 

Home stretch.

Repeatedly blowing the pump motor's 40 amp fuse strongly suggests a specific fault with a low-cost fix. See the "motor repair" link in my sig. line below. Very likely you need to replace a semiconductor component in the motor called a TVS that suppresses electrical spikes. Let me know of any questions after you've had a chance to take a look.